Dillon Crimp Die vs Lee Factory Crimp die

[TTNuge]

I just bought a set of Dillon 9mm dies and had previously acquired a Lee Factory Crimp die that I was going to use with Lee dies. When the opportunity came up to get the Dillon dies I jumped at it. But now I'm not sure which one I should use. I know some people say neither but I like to put a nice light crimp on. Does the Dillon and the Lee essentially work the same or is there any fundamental difference between the two? Same goes for 45ACP that will primarily be shot out of 1911's. Oh, I'm also going to be using more and more lead hard cast bullets instead of plated if that makes any difference.

[Mikelindsey]

Just my preference I like to stay from led bullets in my 1911s. Just a preference but to each his own.

[Cy Soto]

In the past few years, I have switched back and forth between the Dillon Taper Crimp and the Lee Factory Crimp dies several times. I have tried these in both 9mm as well as .40 S&W. Truth be told, I cannot say that one is better than the other in terms of accuracy. The reason I prefer the Lee FCD is because it produces better consistency at the chrono (tighter Extreme Spread and Standard Deviation).

Having said this, I will add that I only use the FCD with FMJ or JHP bullets and I would not consider using it with bare lead or plated bullets for fear of deforming the projectile.

[TTNuge]

In the past few years, I have switched back and forth between the Dillon Taper Crimp and the Lee Factory Crimp dies several times. I have tried these in both 9mm as well as .40 S&W. Truth be told, I cannot say that one is better than the other in terms of accuracy. The reason I prefer the Lee FCD is because it produces better consistency at the chrono (tighter Extreme Spread and Standard Deviation).

Having said this, I will add that I only use the FCD with FMJ or JHP bullets and I would not consider using it with bare lead or plated bullets for fear of deforming the projectile.

Thanks. I haven't actually loaded any lead yet but have them sitting there waiting for me. I will definitely research the process more before starting on them. I know you mentioned the FCD specifically but does that mean you don't use the Dillion Taper Crimp with lead bullets either?

[jlamphere]

Unless I am mistaken (if I am someone will be quick to correct me), the Dillon die only hits the top of the brass to remove to flair from the powder die. The Lee FCD resizes the entire case all the way down to the base. Because of this, the Lee could deform a soft projectile, but less so on a jacketed as Cy stated..

Edited October 2, 2013 by jlamphere

[Brassaholic13]

Unless I am mistaken (if I am someoen will be quick to correct me), the Dillon die only hits the top of the brass to remove to flair from the powder die. The Lee FCD resizes the entire case all the way down to the base. Because of this, the Lee could deform a soft projectile, but less so on a jacketed as Cy stated..

Don't think so.

[Cy Soto]

I know you mentioned the FCD specifically but does that mean you don't use the Dillion Taper Crimp with lead bullets either?

I stopped using bare lead and plated bullets a while back. They both worked well for me and they were cheaper than jacketed bullets but, these days, I just prefer using jacked bullets.

As jlamphere stated, the Dillon Taper Crimp die only removes the "belling" so, if I were still loading plated bullets, the Dillon die is what I would be using.

[Cy Soto]

Don't think so.

The gold-colored section towards the lower portion of the cartridge in the diagram is a carbide insert which "squeezes" the walls of the case as the cartridge enters the die.

[sbcman]

No experience with the Dillon but I have Lee FCD's set up on the fourth station of my 550 for both 9 and 45. The Lee not only puts the crimp on but sizes the case back down, bullet and all. I use only lead bullets and have had no issues whatsoever even with the really firm crimp needed for 45 in revolver.

In fact, I had more trouble putting a tight roll crimp on.

YMMV

[rjacobs]

Ive used both. Both work equally well IMO. Try both out since you have them, they only take a minute or two to setup. See which works better for you. My honest opinion though is that you wont probably notice a difference between the two.

[TTNuge]

Thanks everyone for the advice and experiences

[Brassaholic13]

Don't think so.

The gold-colored section towards the lower portion of the cartridge in the diagram is a carbide insert which "squeezes" the walls of the case as the cartridge enters the die.

Odd, I never feel any squeezing/sizing going on when I crimp. I would think that the carbide insert would be more of a guide to keep the shell from cocking, as opposed to a sizing die. I mean, whats the point of having the crimper size when there's a dedicated sizing die?

I guess I'll have to try and run an unsized piece of brass that's been fired through the crimp die and see if there's resistance.

[3gunnah]

I use a Lee Factory Crimp Die in every toolhead that I have for pistol calibers. Lead or jacket it works great for everything.

[Bob DuBois]

Everyone has loading tricks but for me Lee sizing die in station one. Lee's sizing die will size closer to the extractor groove and a little tighter size than some other brands. Lee's sizing die has an outstanding primer punch design, if set properly it will push up instead of breaking though I would keep a few spares just in case. Lee's locking nuts are a little weak might order a set of Dillon nuts.

Had to lock the sizing die from the bottom on the tool head on my 650.

Lee seating die. Lee's seating die uses a internal plug, for a few bucks you can send Lee the bullet your shooting and they will cut an insert for you. I had a flat insert made local and that solved the OAL problem I had using heavier bullets, 160gn, in 9mm minor. Using a Dillon crimp die with a slight crimp, .002 to .004. To tight a crimp accuracy suffers. The first stage sizing die sets the brass to hold the bullet. Crimp lets the round chamber easier. If I'm using a Lee Factory crimp die I back it off and just do a light crimp.

Try loading as long as you can and the rounds work in your magazines. Longer rounds seem to be more accurate to me. Check the first ten of so in a magazine before starting a run. Be sure to bell a little larger for cast bullets and lube cases. Makes the whole process easier on the dies, brass, press and the operator.

Nothing wrong with cast bullets in fact they are easier on the barrel and out right fun in a 45.

[SterlingSomeone]

I just reset up my 650 today(moved). Before I moved I had noticed the the diameter of the bottom of the 9mm case was a tad larger and had previously picked up a 9mm Lee FCD. I was wondering what if I should put it on or not and what do you know...the answer was right here on this forum. Thanks for everyones input.

[Prebaned]

The fundamental difference between the two is Dillon does not touch the case wall. The Lee has a carbide ring in the base that is approximately .005ths larger than the sizing ring. This carbide ring will only size the very bottom of the case towards the head if your sizing die doesn't get close enough, this is to guaranty it will fit a case gauge by removing any bulge by the head.

I just set the crimp to remove the flare and no more. I use the LFC die on all my tool heads.

Dillion's taper crimp die has a very nice smooth gradual taper. Adjusting crimp is not so nice.

The LFC die has a short taper insert that can stick a little to the brass and leave a little ring mark on the mouth of the case. Polish up the the insert where it contacts the case mouth makes it smoother. Adjusting the crimp is very nice.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited April 6, 2014 by Prebaned

[Torogi]

Last night I was helping a new reloader set up his dies, i suggested Dillon die set to make it easier for him, in value and set up. Though originally he liked my set up (40SW). U-die, Redding competition, Lee FCD.

It was my first time to set-up Dillon dies. Big difference on the setting up for the seater. Last die to go in was the crimp, i thought it was no biggie. Read the manual twice, not any different from Lee.

But, it wouldn't feed on the gun (stock STI bull barrel). It passes case gage fine. I had to remove the barrel from the gun and check how deep it goes. Its hanging about 1/8". Some even 2/3 in. Crimp is about 1/4 turn. We are using plated bullets so I dont want to crimp it too much.

Luckily we are setting up his press in my garage and we run those rounds into my Lee FCD and i can definitely feel that my Lee FCD 'reprocessed' those rounds. Tried again on barrel and dropped freely, like factory.

We had to crank the dillon close to 3/4 turn to make it work.

I pulled the bullets to compare and check if there is any stripping or too much crimp and the dillon left a ring mark by the case mouth. Lee does too but its very light to none. But that is 1/4 turn (Lee FCD) and 3/4 on Dillon.

At 1/4 turn with the dillon , case will pass case gage. But i guess with match barrels, it needs a little more.

Gun: STI edge 40 S&W

Press: 650

Bullet: extreme 40 s&w 180gr rnfp hpcb

Brass: once fired mixed (WIN, speer, Winchester)

OAL: 1.135 (variance of +/- 0.006)

Case gage: Dillon

Edited April 6, 2014 by Torogi

[Jaxshooter]

I use the same setup on all of my Dillon's. Lee U sizing dies, Redding competition seating dies and Lee factory crimp dies. I load 9mm, 38 super, 40 S&W and 45 ACP. I have never had a problem with any bullets. I load lead, coated and jacketed bullets.

Edited April 6, 2014 by Jaxshooter

[blujax01]

...

OAL: 1.135 (variance of +/- 0.006)

...

Admittedly I am far from being an expert and as a new kid on the block I don't want to step on any toes, but in my opinion:

If your OAL runs from 1.129 to 1.141 there is something else going wrong that may be the root cause. And the Lee FCD is fixing the symptom, not the problem.

[RDA]

...

OAL: 1.135 (variance of +/- 0.006)

...

Admittedly I am far from being an expert and as a new kid on the block I don't want to step on any toes, but in my opinion:

If your OAL runs from 1.129 to 1.141 there is something else going wrong that may be the root cause. And the Lee FCD is fixing the symptom, not the problem.

With mixed brass, that OAL variance isn't unusual nor would it really matter.

[blujax01]

I dunno, I run mixed range brass through my 650 all the time in my hand guns and OAL is at the most +/- 0.003. And this is due to inconsistencies in the profile of some cheaper plated bullets. FMJ or HP is usually dead nut right on to three decimal places. So if I'm using a recipe calling for a minimum OAL of 1.130 I know I can set it for 1.133 and not fall under minimum.

But if your 40 is running okay at that tolerance level, all's well that ends well.

[SilverBolt]

I am a new loader using a 650. A good friend that has been loading for 40+ years has been mentoring me and getting me started. On his suggestion on position #4 I use the Dillon crimp die to remove the bell and on position #5 use the Lee die. This is for 9mm. I have run about 10k rounds using this setup and all have been flawless. Any input? Overkill?

[blujax01]

I am a new loader using a 650. A good friend that has been loading for 40+ years has been mentoring me and getting me started. On his suggestion on position #4 I use the Dillon crimp die to remove the bell and on position #5 use the Lee die. This is for 9mm. I have run about 10k rounds using this setup and all have been flawless. Any input? Overkill?

I too have run about 10K of 9mm through my 650 without the FCD and have had excellent results with the Dillon die set. I have mine set so the bullet seat die removes the bell.

The FCD may be overkill but if it works for you, why not? You have to pull the handle anyway, right?

I recently acquired a pistol chambered in 357 Sig and am loading for it on a Single Stage with an RCBS 2 die set. I did not care for the way the seating die "crimps" so I have ordered a Dillon taper crimp die. I know the Dillon die and I trust it. I considered the Lee FCD but don't see the need to full length resize a finished cartridge.

Different strokes...

Edited April 10, 2014 by blujax01

[Bob DuBois]

40 S@W is the caliber that Lee's U die works the best. Seen several S_I pistols start running by just going to the U die. I like Lee's seating die with a flat insert just pushes on the nose of the bullet not the sides. OAL stays closer. Lee's sizer sizes closer to the extractor groove and tighter than other brands. Lee's locking nuts are weak and I would order a set of Dillon nuts. I don't care for the factory crimp die and either back off the Lee die or use a Dillon crimp die. Lee's sizing die is in the first station on every pistol caliber I load with the U die used in 40S@W.

The mouth of Lee's dies is a little tighter so you may need to run the press a little slower and your press needs to be in time. Always lube cases makes the whole process easier on the brass, dies, press and the operator.

[JaeOne3345]

I got rid of my FCD's when I started using a Lee sizer in station 1. If the cartridge is making it all the way to a final station and still isn't sized right, that says there is a problem that needs to be addressed at the sizing station.

The standard Lee sizer works great for me. I have no need for the U Dies. This die produces ammo that runs and gauges in both my STI and SV Infinity barrels. I was able to put the normal Dillon Taper Crimp back into the rotation once I got the Lee sizers.