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Factory crimp or taper crimp in .40


dtuns

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If you are referring to the Lee FCD, many do not like using that die. Personally, I like it for straight wall pistol ammo but more for the sizing of the brass than the crimp function. I feel it gives me more reliable feeding but I load almost exclusively lead hardcast. Some feel that the Lee FCD is detrimental with plated or coated bullets due to damage to the bullet's plating.

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Ive been reloading plated and fmj bullets just got 2000 rounds of lead would you recommend factory crimp or stay wj rh taper crimp? I already have both right now use the factory crimp to run all my Glock brass through completly

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

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For my use, I don't crimp at the bullet seating station. I use the Lee FCD and crimp lightly on a single stage press. If my press had a vacant station, I would install the FCD there and save a bunch of time. I set the die to crimp just enough to hold the bullet securely.

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The Lee .40 S&W FCD is a taper crimp die, I use the Lee FDC die with plated bullets without problem on the 9mm, 40 S&W and 44 magnum.

Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die

"A carbide sizer inside the Carbide Factory Crimp die post-sizes the cartridge while it is crimped so every round will positvely chamber freely with factory like dependability. The adjusting screw quickly and easily sets the desired amount of crimp. It is impossible to buckle the case as with a conventional bullet seating die. Trim length is not critical so this extra operation takes less time than it would if cases were trimmed and chamfered.

Revolver dies roll crimp with no limit as to the amount. A perfect taper crimp is applied to auto-loader rounds. The crimper cannot be misadjusted to make a case mouth too small to properly head-space. A firm crimp is essential for dependable and accurate ammunition. It eliminates the problems of poor ignition of slow burning magnum powders.

Edited by bigedp51
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I taper crimp all my pistol rounds even my revolver ammo here is what I do.

resize a casing

index past the powder and seating station to the crimp station and run the ram up

turn the taper crimp die down to contact the casing lower case add 1/8th. to 1/4 turn run case back into die to get it all aligned and

set lock ring

load a dummy and check with chamber or gauge and follow up with a straight edge to verify no bell remains

I do use a FCD with my .223 but not convinced I really need it as they drop into the Wilson gauge and my barrel before that step and due to neck tension don't set back guess I'll call it an insurance step

and for those of the roll vs. taper crimp try pulling a round set up both ways pulling a TCd .148 HBWC is quite a bit more work to pull than even a stout roll crimp and my .357s have never shifted under recoil

I will say that too much crimp either way will screw with your accuracy so remember just remove the bell and get back below resized case dimension and no more.

Has worked for me for over 25 years.

John

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you are referring to the Lee FCD, many do not like using that die. Personally, I like it for straight wall pistol ammo but more for the sizing of the brass than the crimp function. I feel it gives me more reliable feeding but I load almost exclusively lead hardcast. Some feel that the Lee FCD is detrimental with plated or coated bullets due to damage to the bullet's plating.

I have used a Lee FCD on all 9mm and .40 reloads for over 5 years. I just got into a bunch of Ranier plated .40 bullets and accuracy was horrible. I started using a plain taper crimp die a couple of months ago and my accuracy has noticeably improved.

Edited by d_striker
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  • 2 weeks later...

I now use the fcd only for resizing the flocked .40 brass on my single stage lee press. I have a redding taper crimp die on the last station of the 550b. Never had any problems with the fcd with the 180 rainiers, but I had it set at a very light crimp.

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After a lot of reading I started loading 40 a couple years ago, I was having some feed problems so I bought a Lee FCD, my feed problems went away, and so did my accuracy, no matter how I adjusted the FCD accuracy sucked, now I crimp with a Redding tapper crimp die, I still use the FCD with the Bulge Buster.

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The idea that it is possible to resize a bullet after it is loaded into the case is just NOT a good idea. The bullet will not spring back like the brass case does. I use the FCD as a bulge buster and it works quite well but I would never use it as a crimp die unless the carbide ring was removed first. I tried the FCD with some cast & coated bullets that are larger in diameter than most of the jacketed bullets and it resulted in loose bullets inside the case. Not a good idea at all.

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Crimp a pistol bullet, really?

You know that pistol rounds fit in the chamber at the case mouth, yes?

I will never crimp a pistol round, because this can lead to malfunctions and on the worsest scenario, the case mouth stucks into the barrel and the bullet gets pressed in the brass.

A KABOOM! is possible.

Do a friction crimp, what means, you use a taper crimp die and just lay the brass close to the bullet, not more.

The diameter at the case mouth should be the same as where the bullets sits in the brass.

Very continue too.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm currently using the FCD die with bearbreek 180gr molycoated bullets with zero issues. What I have found is that some guys are having issues with coated bullets cause they are using a roll crimp and the FCD die as the last step in the process on progressive presses. Check your dies as a roll crimp will cause the case to cut into the coating and this is where the problem occurs.

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Roll crimp in a pistol?

:surprise:

That´s the opposite of all what I have learned about that stuff.

Pistol cartridges are hold in place in the chamber by pressing the case mouth to the front of the chamber, even the slide distance is regulated by this.

Other ammo is regulated over the case shoulder or the ring etc., but pistol cartridges need their defined length from their bottom to their case mouth.

A roll crimp sets this principe out of function.

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Crimp a pistol bullet, really?

You know that pistol rounds fit in the chamber at the case mouth, yes?

I will never crimp a pistol round, because this can lead to malfunctions and on the worsest scenario, the case mouth stucks into the barrel and the bullet gets pressed in the brass.

A KABOOM! is possible.

Do a friction crimp, what means, you use a taper crimp die and just lay the brass close to the bullet, not more.

The diameter at the case mouth should be the same as where the bullets sits in the brass.

Very continue too.

I'm new at reloading and I even know that is all the more you should do to a straight wall cartridge. :)

Greg

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