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Glock use in IDPA


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Sorry if I'm in the wrong spot, I'm not talking about gaming but I know there are a lot of Glock owners who shoot IDPA and I'm wondering what modifications they make to make the Glock better for IDPA along with not interfering with the dependability of the Glock. I personally have a G 34.

Bill

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1) Replace the stock sights with Heinie Slant Pro's. Widen and deepen the rear sight notch until the desired amount of light is present. Another good choice is to get the fiber optic saver kit from Dawson Precision with the thin fiber optic front sight and the Heinie Slant Pro rear.

2) Use standard capacity magazines. The 10-round mags are less reliable.

3) If you shoot low power factor reloads (close to the 125 PF minimum for IDPA) then consider replacing the stock 17lb recoil spring with a reduced power spring. ISMI makes Glock recoil springs that fit on the stock plastic rod and many use the 13lb model for light loads.

4) Get a trigger job if you need a better trigger. There are plenty of threads on Glock trigger work including in the FAQ of this forum. There are also several good Glock trigger smiths that post here including Matt Kartozian, Tom Novak, and Charlie Vanek.

5) Dehorn the sharp edges on the magazine catch and the magazine well.

6) Apply some sort of grip tape like Eric Wesselman's Tru Grip (see the dealer section) or an Agrip from Brooks Tactical (CWPSA). Some folks just use ProGrip lotion with the standard grip or in combination with grip tape.

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I'm wondering what modifications they make to make the Glock

Aside from sights, less is more with the Glock. Charlie Vanek's trigger jobs are legendary and based on what I'm hearing from people I respect - damned reliable. Personally, I (and Uncle Vinny and one factory armorer) like the 3.5 connector and the NY1 trigger spring. Both can be had for maybe $20 total at www.glockmeister.com.

As far as grip tape goes, there are GM's that absolutely swear by the stuff, then there are GM's that rub dirt on their hands before they shoot so they can adjust their grip mid-stream. Both methods are equally "right."

I guess the belief that you need to buy a gun and spend a billion dollars to "fix" everything will probably never die. I really wish it would though...

Put on real sights, then shoot the doggone gun. I wouldn't "fix" anything for two to five thousand rounds. By then, you'll know what you need to do.

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SIghts, heinie, scott warren's, or dawsons seem to be the best.

tirgger job, atleast smooth up things in the action. stock feels like crap. waaaay roughter than just polishing the parts (not even modifying them at all)

full cap mags, 10 rounders suck round counter doesn't work right on mine/reliably they are twice as hard on the shooter to load and harder for the action to work reliably.

lighter loads and lighter springs are a great help, even just a lighter ISMI spring reduces flip in most cases.

good holster, and mag pouches. and a lot of practice is all is need to win with a glock. probabally the cheapest gun you will shoot unless you want to pay one of the above smith's to do a trigger job you don't really need until your able to control the factory unit.

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I was seriously thinking about sending my G34 to CGR for a trigger job however when I called fedex it was $40.00 each way shipping, more than the cost of the trigger job and they were giving me a really hard time about shipping a firearm. Does this sound right ?

Bill

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UPS requires you to ship a handgun at least Next Day Air Saver.

http://www.ups.com/content/us/en/resources...s/firearms.html

FedeX requires you to ship a handgun at least Priority Overnight

http://www.fedex.com/us/services/express/t...s/firearms.html

Read the terms and conditions above carefully and you should not have a problem. Also call the person you are shipping to and make sure they are OK with a specific shipping service before using it. There are occasions where a shipping service does not deliver to a particular place.

The UPS Next Day Air Saver is usually less expensive than the Fedex Priority Overnight, but it is easy to get a cost estimate for each from the respective websites.

Shipping a handgun is expensive and the associated costs need to be included in your cost estimates for the service. It also makes the higher priced work more attractive since if your going to spend so much on shipping you might as well get the best work done while it's there.

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Here's what I did for sights on my G23:

Put on a plain black MMC rear made for the Glock and a Dawson Precision Fiber Optical front made for the Novak rear. The front sight is .160 high. I opened up the MMC rear a little with a file and Dremel.

Looks like a small combat rear sight and it's adjustable. The front sight is very low.

For the triger:

I polished thru the plating to get really smooth surfaces. Install a lighter striker spring and a heavier trigger spring. Polish the cruciform sear (do not change the angle or round the sharp upper edge), under the cruciform where it contacts the connector, the connector, the firing pin safety (clip off 2 coils of the firing pin safety spring) and polish the trigger bar where it contacts the firing pin safety, polish the part of the cruciform that is the drop safety. Grind the striker arm on the left side at a 45 degree angle and polish the striker where it contacts the cruciform sear. Polish the striker at the back flats and in the front where it will make contact with the channel liner.

See:

http://www.sportshooter.com/gssf/dalerhea_dremeling.htm

Scroll to Trigger Group then Modifying the Srtiker.

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Glocks are so easy do the work yourself.

Replace the sights w/ Dawson adjustables

Drill the trigger bar to change the angle of the trigger spring

install a glockmeister hvy trigger spring

if you really want a new barrel send it to bar sto and have them install one or just by a prefitted.

A piece of sandpaper stuck to a mag w/ double stick tape and run up in the magwell opens it up really well to make dropping in an out slick. (be care w/ mag release)

I think a light recoil spring is a great addition as well.

I also find a Glock shock buff is a nice addition.

A lightening strike Ti firing pin and a wolffe RP striker spring will ignite WSR primers for me 99% of the time

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A lightening strike Ti firing pin and a wolffe RP striker spring will ignite WSR primers for me 99% of the time

99%? thats not really that good. thats about 1 misfire per match, 2 or 3 at a big match. my vanek trigger works 100% of the time (though it cost a small fortune).

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important match (more than $25 entry fee and no reshoots allowed) = Federal SPM primers = 100% reliable

Everything else WSR, they were cheaper the last time I bought primers and can be loaded in my 223 or my 9's

for weekend matches I don't case gauge or chamber check either, but for big matches where I use the Fed primers, those rounds also get case gauged.

I have about a 1.6# trigger that pretty much cost me parts and some of those (like the Ti firing pin) were presents so they didn't cost me anything

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  • 1 month later...

It would depend on which division you wanted to compete in. For example in SSP I would replace the sight with the Dawson Precision sight for Glock http://www3.mailordercentral.com/shootings...s.asp?dept=1244 with a .100 front sight. Trigger job is not really required but it will help improve your scores.

For ESP replace the sights get a SS guide rod from THE Accessories (use either a 15 or 17 pound ISMI spring) http://www.gunracing.com/Qstore/Qstore.cgi...011&PROD=000068 and the NHO SS magazine well http://www.handgunneroutlet.net/ another option is THE Accessories Brass Magazine Well http://www.gunracing.com/Qstore/Qstore.cgi...011&PROD=000019

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Steve, He repositions the trigger itself. Think of the lever principle. BTW he was not the first. There are many things that come into play when doing a Glock trigger. Most don't know that there are two different nose profiles on the trigger bar. One can alter the nose profile to achieve the same pull weight with a 5# connector that most get with a 3.5 connector and unaltered bar.

BTW Heinie rear sights will shoot loose in the dovetail. Novak rears are much better.

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BTW Heinie rear sights will shoot loose in the dovetail. Novak rears are much better.

i shot about 10k rounds of 9mm and my rear heine sight never moved. in fact, of all the sights i've used (heinie, dawson, bomar), the heinies were the most difficult to hammer in.

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I swapped out some Heinie Straight 8's for my Mepros and have had issues with the rear moving around. I removed it to find that the previous owner and installer had stoned the bottom of the dovetail to instal. Bad move. I've used loctite and even peened the bottom of the dovetail to creat high spots in hopes it would hold tight. To no avail.

I finally broke down and bought a plain Heinie rear and installed it using the Glock sight tool. It was no easy task. Zeroed the sight making a minor adjustment. I don't think it's going anywhere. It was that tight.

Maybe a change since you last installed one Joe. Heinie says to make sure you install it right to left only.

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Mark, maybe they have changed. I Rockwell tested both. The Heinies were 10 points softer on the "B" scale. Mine loosened up after about 20,000 rounds of Major. Other Glock shooters that I know, Chris and CY, have had the same problem. Most sights are installed from the right side.

IDPA loads probably would not affect them. I just like the Novak sight picture better anyway.

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