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Maintence Intervals for Gen4 Glocks?


JesseM

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I have a 4th gen Glock 17 that just pushed 6000 rounds. About 4000 rounds in I started getting some stovepipes and brass was ejecting right back into my hat so I swapped ejector, extractor and RSA, it was good after that. Well I just did a detail cleaning on the gun and put 320 more rounds through it this weekend at a bowling pin and USPSA match and I've had two more stovepipes and watching my hat cam footage I'm noticing the occasional bit of brass pinging my camera so I'm wondering what is the replacement interval on the other springs in the gun? Am I over due? Is there another problem?

Note: Other than different trigger connector and new sights the gun is stock.

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Does your gun have the 30274 ejector? If not put one in, then get the apex extractor, if your lucky this should cure the btf. Then just routine maintenance should all you need.

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Does your gun have the 30274 ejector? If not put one in, then get the apex extractor, if your lucky this should cure the btf. Then just routine maintenance should all you need.

I think it does. When it started shitting the bed after 4000 rounds someone told me something similar so I bought one and swapped ejectors. I'll try the apex extractor too.

Should I replace springs too?

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Are you shooting factory or handloads thru it?

I found with that new double recoil spring assembly doesn't like MY minor PF handloads that I ran thru the old Gen3 for years. Was having the same issue with extraction and ejection. You might look at your load or going to a one piece.

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Are you shooting factory or handloads thru it?

I found with that new double recoil spring assembly doesn't like MY minor PF handloads that I ran thru the old Gen3 for years. Was having the same issue with extraction and ejection. You might look at your load or going to a one piece.

Also what I was wondering, the recoil spring may be a bit too heavy (for lighter loads) if the brass is not ejecting far. I'm not an experienced gunsmith, but the first 4000 rounds may have gotten just enough build up/friction/whatever for this to show up.

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I would think if the RSA were the problem that it would get better over time not worse (since the spring wears over time). The brass coming straight back instead of to the side after a couple of thousand rounds sounds like the symptom that a lot of folks were reporting with the early gen 4 glocks.

I would check the extractor and ejector again both to make sure they are not damaged and that they are the current parts. I would also chamber check the rounds and make sure they slide in a out easily. If they are hard to get out of the chamber (perhaps because of the case being swollen near the base) maybe that is leading to extraction problems and possibly even damaging the extractor.

If you can find any you could also try some factory ammo to see if it showed the same symptoms.

If all else fails I guess you could call the factory.

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Are you shooting factory or handloads thru it?

I found with that new double recoil spring assembly doesn't like MY minor PF handloads that I ran thru the old Gen3 for years. Was having the same issue with extraction and ejection. You might look at your load or going to a one piece.

Everything is factory ammo, I don't reload. Current stovepipes were with some S&B 115gr FMJ ammo and some Tula 115gr. Some of the previous stovepipes at the 4000 round mark were Speer Lawman 124, 147 and 115gr TMJ.

Edited by JesseM
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If you go with the apex you also have to get the non lci spring loaded bearring. In my opinion glocks are oversprung so you might also try a rsa a few lbs less than factory. The apex may or may not help, it didn't really change the ejection pattern in my 17, but it definitely fixed my 34, however both guns are gen 3s.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 10 months later...

I'm bringing this thread back. I replaced the springs and still get stove pipes. I'm only at 7170 rounds now because I've been taking a bit of a break from the Glock and was shooting my CZ for a while and them an XD in 45.

This is a bit frusterating. What happened to Glocks being stupid reliable?

I am considering sending it off to a smith and having him just turn it into a full blown custom limited gun and call it a day.

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fwiw:

"Had" Gen3 G17, G34, & G19 with APEX Tactical FRE Gen3 Extractor w/ APEX included spring & Non-LCI bearing, 30274 Ejector.
- All ran 100%, positive brass ejection & pattern.

Running Gen4 G17 & G19 w/ above APEX Tactical Gen3 FRE Gen3 Extractor w/ APEX included spring & Non-LCI bearing, 30274 Ejector.
- same result: 100%

Btw: I've also tried the Non-Dip/LCI extractor with various spring/bearing combos, still prefer APEX FRE setup above.

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You said the gun was stock except the trigger connector and sights. Then later said you thought the ejector was a different part number. Now you are empirically considering other aftermarket parts suggested by others.

If the gun actually does not function reliably and it has not been modified why not get with Glock and get it fixed? I have four 9mm Glocks that function flawlessly with all factory parts (except sights). It just seems silly to tinker with the gun when Glock stands behind their products. Is there more to the story?

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What caliber? What loads are you shooting other than "minor PF". Usually a change to a Jaeger guide rod and 15# or 13# spring will solve your problems depending on load and caliber. Your slide is moving too fast or not far enough to the rear based on your load, hence trapping the brass on ejection.

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I have a Gen4 with Jaeger guide rod/13lb ismi spring, Johnny Glock Trigger and have had zero ejection issues at 6K rounds. My reloads are 124gr MG CMJ 4.0gr TG if that helps. I clean it every 2K rounds or so.

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What not send it back to Glock and have them look at it?

I didn't think they'd do anything. The gun is over 4 years old at this point.

What caliber? What loads are you shooting other than "minor PF". Usually a change to a Jaeger guide rod and 15# or 13# spring will solve your problems depending on load and caliber. Your slide is moving too fast or not far enough to the rear based on your load, hence trapping the brass on ejection.

I don't reload, mostly I've been shooting Freedom Munitions mostly 147gr. Occasionally I snag a box from the store in whatever they have, American Eagle 125, WWB 115gr, etc.

I shot it in a match yesterday with the Freedom. Ran fine for 6 stages on stage 7 it stove piped twice in one string of fire.

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What not send it back to Glock and have them look at it?

I didn't think they'd do anything. The gun is over 4 years old at this point.

What caliber? What loads are you shooting other than "minor PF". Usually a change to a Jaeger guide rod and 15# or 13# spring will solve your problems depending on load and caliber. Your slide is moving too fast or not far enough to the rear based on your load, hence trapping the brass on ejection.

I don't reload, mostly I've been shooting Freedom Munitions mostly 147gr. Occasionally I snag a box from the store in whatever they have, American Eagle 125, WWB 115gr, etc.

I shot it in a match yesterday with the Freedom. Ran fine for 6 stages on stage 7 it stove piped twice in one string of fire.

I bought some of that Freedom Munitions and had A LOT of Light Strikes.. I use Blazer Brass now and NEVER have a problem..

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Are you sure you are not limp wristing? #1 cause of stove pipes in Glocks is not locking your wrist. Has anyone else shot it and duplicated the problem? I run a Gen-4 G34 (same RSA). I replaced the factory RSA at about 8k rounds and again at about 18k rounds. Never had an ejection issue. Replaced for preventive maintenance. Round count now is north of 30k. Never a single stove pipe.

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I didn't think they'd do anything. The gun is over 4 years old at this point.

It's in Glock's best interest to help you than have folks question their products reliability. Give them a call.

I emailed them today. I don't entirely see how it's in their best interest to give a crap about me with a gun that is long past it's warranty date when they are selling milions and millions of guns to everyone else but I emailed them anyway.

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I didn't think they'd do anything. The gun is over 4 years old at this point.

It's in Glock's best interest to help you than have folks question their products reliability. Give them a call.

I emailed them today. I don't entirely see how it's in their best interest to give a crap about me with a gun that is long past it's warranty date when they are selling milions and millions of guns to everyone else but I emailed them anyway.

You're kidding..right! There is no doubt they will look at the gun. Be prepared that when returned it will have all factory parts and your third party stuff will be in a bag. Also be prepared that many issues like this one result in a diagnosis that the shooter is at fault. That does not sit well with all owners (and it probably isn't always correct) but at least you know they could not reproduce the problem.

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I didn't think they'd do anything. The gun is over 4 years old at this point.

It's in Glock's best interest to help you than have folks question their products reliability. Give them a call.

I emailed them today. I don't entirely see how it's in their best interest to give a crap about me with a gun that is long past it's warranty date when they are selling milions and millions of guns to everyone else but I emailed them anyway.

You're kidding..right! There is no doubt they will look at the gun. Be prepared that when returned it will have all factory parts and your third party stuff will be in a bag. Also be prepared that many issues like this one result in a diagnosis that the shooter is at fault. That does not sit well with all owners (and it probably isn't always correct) but at least you know they could not reproduce the problem.

Oh I had no doubt that they would look a the gun but I expect if they find something they'd want me to pay for it with it being out of warranty... which is part of the reason I was thinking of just sending it somewhere to make it custom... ie I could going to spend money to ship it Glock who might fix it or might tell me "Can't reproduce it." or I can ship it to a shop that will work it all up and turn it into a nice USPSA Limited & IDPA ESP gun and hope it fixes it.

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Just send it to Glock they will not charge you for the tenth time :), you probably won't even have to pay for shipping to them. They don't care if it's a twenty year old beat to death Glock as they are just a great customer service, never have they asked about me registering my pistol warranty. They enter your name and info, serial, etc into the system and take care of business.

Edited by Manist
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