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Stoeger M3000 Scattergun?


Hotchkiss

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Jesse the welded lifter got rid of the hiccup loading quads like you said. :)

I second this one. I picked up an extended lifter from TTI and modified it per Jared's instructions and it fixed the quad loading hiccups I was having. I went from never having quad loaded before to loading like I'd been doing it for weeks in a matter of an hour.

I can't thank Patrick Kelley for playing John the Baptist in regards to the potential of this gun as well as Jesse Tischauser for exploring the possibilities even further and now putting his money where is mouth is using this in competition. And Jared at The Tactical Bay gets massive props for all of the how-to videos without which I would probably have a $500+ paperweight right now.

I was saving up for an M2 but bought this on a whim after Patrick's article came out. From that article and this thread the whim has been more than justified and I'm now spending the extra M2 cash on more ammo and IP caddies.

You all rock!

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Jesse the welded lifter got rid of the hiccup loading quads like you said. :)

Yes the welded lifter stopped the shells from hitting the taint in between mag tube and the chamber.

I am still having issues getting the 2nd shell past the lifter everytime or as easily as my M2. I'm having to consciously stick my thumb into the gun a little to quad load. Gonna chop the receiver even further forward and see what happens.

Edited by Jesse Tischauser
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Nordic plus 6 ; extended tube recommends that you leave 16 inches of spring past the end of the installed tube I've read others here recommend different lengths to cut the springs, any where from 14 down to 12 inches past the end. Is this for faster = easier reloads with less resistance ? What would be a good reliable length that you have successfully used without any fails to feed ?

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Nordic plus 6 ; extended tube recommends that you leave 16 inches of spring past the end of the installed tube I've read others here recommend different lengths to cut the springs, any where from 14 down to 12 inches past the end. Is this for faster = easier reloads with less resistance ? What would be a good reliable length that you have successfully used without any fails to feed ?

Leave the spring length just like it came out of the package. If you can't get 10 in the tube or whatever your supposed to with a full spring then clip off 1-2 coils at a time. Then reassemble and check shell capacity until you can get the expected amount of shells in the tube plus 1/2 shell. KurtM also taught me to also take a pliers and turn the end of spring down into the coils and make sure the end of the airing is still concentric with the rest of the spring.

Edited by Jesse Tischauser
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Which ext. tube to get 12 rounds in the tube +8 or +9 ?

I have a Nordic +9 and can fit 13 in the magazine so a +8 would seem to work fine. I have my spring cut down to about 12" past, though.

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Thanks Jesse; So there no reason that Nordic recommends 16 inch pass the end of plus 6 extension. I thought along 16 inch past was over kill to insure there would be (NO) fail to feed issues. I just natural always think there are better ways to tweak a Race Gun, " like polishing the out side magazine tube haven't tried that one YET" . Just a heads up for others here Ryan; the tech for Nordic (great guy, very helpful) did send me a few pictures of how to bend the spring ends and was the person recommending 16 inch its was also mentioned in there direction for installation.

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Thanks Jesse; So there no reason that Nordic recommends 16 inch pass the end of plus 6 extension. I thought along 16 inch past was over kill to insure there would be (NO) fail to feed issues. I just natural always think there are better ways to tweak a Race Gun, " like polishing the out side magazine tube haven't tried that one YET" . Just a heads up for others here Ryan; the tech for Nordic (great guy, very helpful) did send me a few pictures of how to bend the spring ends and was the person recommending 16 inch its was also mentioned in there direction for installation.

My guess would be that 16" will be exactly where you end up with my 1/2 shell over your desired capacity. I think we are both saying the same thing.

I've heard and read guys say 12" or even 10" but that's not enough on the longer 10-12 round tubes.

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Hey Jesse; I forgot to say THANKS! for sharing the tweak you use of the the arrow head on the rear part of the vented rib. It works great. It really helps guide your eye , which is your rear sight right in line with your front sight allot faster. :cheers:

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Do these guns allow ghost load and loading the tube with chamber flag in (out of battery loading) straight from the factory or do they need to be modified to allow these options like a M2?

Thanks,

Mike

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Sorry Mildot; I didn't respond because I was not dead sure WHY, It was something Nordic tech said to do. I just considered it good advice. You could call Nordic talk with Ryan at tech support he would have the correct answer your searching for.

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Whats up with the bending of the spring ends? Never heard of this.

TIA

Mildot1

I'm told of rare occurances of the spring can get hooked on the follower or out the hole in the end of the tube. Ideally we would use a spring with a flat finished end but this will suffice.

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I had issues where the pointy end of the spring would catch on the gap between extension and integral mag tube if anything started to loosen up while shooting. Also, I initially had some issues with the pointy end snagging the tube cap when reassembling, which could result in torquing the spring and getting some spring bind form the top. Now, in addition to being a compulsive tube tightener, I also got into the habit of bending both spring ends under with a pair of needlenose pliers, so that the only thing making contact with the follower/cap is a rounded bend in the end of the spring. Never had a binding or torquing issue since I started doing that.

Edited by CJW
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That for the explanation about the spring ends. That makes sense and bending both ends would mean that you won't have to worry about which end goes in first when you disassemble/reassemble.

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Ok guys- Sorry I have been out of the action here for a little bit, I have been under the weather and haven't been able to keep up. Here is the latest mod attempt to ease quad loads in the Stoeger. I cut back the trigger guard all the way to the hammer spring tunnel to allow the thumb to drop further in so the shells don't have such a corner going in. Seems to ease the second shell grab a bit. What do y'all think?

post-48876-0-11244200-1397576783_thumb.j

post-48876-0-73227800-1397576796_thumb.j

post-48876-0-67518000-1397576805_thumb.j

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