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PRP trigger


WidowsSon683

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OK so you cant really see the trigger kit (its hidden INSIDE the gun) but imagine that there are 2 more mags with the CC basepads laying there (they are in the mail or will be soon).

Also has the Ice magwell.

DAMN IT FEELS GOOD TO BE GANGSTA!

20130309_004138_zps630ac9ce.jpg

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The trigger is awesome. I have not yet checked the weight but it breaks clean as glass. I had marked the trigger guard to measure the takeup of the stock trigger, now it takes up, fires and resets in that space. I went to a local range the other day and was doin some double taps and i saw one of the employees coming over and i knew they were gonna bi#%h about my "rapid" fire, so i dumped the whole mag in about 4 seconds just to pi$$ them off and left.

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I just purchased my 2nd XDm 525 and sent it right off to Powder River for a Production Division work-up. This will be my gun for the USPSA Nationals this year. Can't wait to start breaking her in :-)

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Trigger came in today, I just put it in. It's a ridiculously short reset, light pull, and crisp break. I don't have enough material sanded off, the trigger breaks oh say about 1/1000th of an inch before the overtravel stop touches the frame.

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Trigger came in today, I just put it in. It's a ridiculously short reset, light pull, and crisp break. I don't have enough material sanded off, the trigger breaks oh say about 1/1000th of an inch before the overtravel stop touches the frame.

I am also looking pretty hard at this trigger. I have watched the videos numerous times already. How long did it take you to put it in? What sizes punches did you use (can't remember from the video)? My last question and this one is for anyone that has put one of these in. Small, big or huge improvement over the stock trigger? Or is it a must have????? Thanks

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I got a small cheap punch set and file kit from harbor freight. Then some sandpaper.

It took me about 1.5-2 hours but I watched the video as I did it step by step and took my time. Don't rush it. I love my trigger, fixing to do another on my old mans gun he just picked up.

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Trigger came in today, I just put it in. It's a ridiculously short reset, light pull, and crisp break. I don't have enough material sanded off, the trigger breaks oh say about 1/1000th of an inch before the overtravel stop touches the frame.

I am also looking pretty hard at this trigger. I have watched the videos numerous times already. How long did it take you to put it in? What sizes punches did you use (can't remember from the video)? My last question and this one is for anyone that has put one of these in. Small, big or huge improvement over the stock trigger? Or is it a must have????? Thanks

There is a night and day difference between the stock and the PRP Ultimate Match. The trigger sets and resets in a hair less than the space required for the stock trigger to reset.

I actually used an Allen wrench to poke the pins out and when the trigger pins came up to bat I used a bigger Allen wrench with a touch of electrician's tape and a multitool as a hammer. I used those and sandpaper. When it worked the first time after installing it, I took the file included in the multitool to sand a little off for some breathing room due to the fact the trigger would be right up next to the frame when it would go off. Overall, it took me about 75-90 minutes all things considered.

I'm taking it to the range tomorrow afternoon, will let you know if I turned my 5.25 9mm into a 19rd burst pistol on accident.

Edited by GreenDragon64
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Trigger came in today, I just put it in. It's a ridiculously short reset, light pull, and crisp break. I don't have enough material sanded off, the trigger breaks oh say about 1/1000th of an inch before the overtravel stop touches the frame.

I am also looking pretty hard at this trigger. I have watched the videos numerous times already. How long did it take you to put it in? What sizes punches did you use (can't remember from the video)? My last question and this one is for anyone that has put one of these in. Small, big or huge improvement over the stock trigger? Or is it a must have????? Thanks

There is a night and day difference between the stock and the PRP Ultimate Match. The trigger sets and resets in a hair less than the space required for the stock trigger to reset.

I actually used an Allen wrench to poke the pins out and when the trigger pins came up to bat I used a bigger Allen wrench with a touch of electrician's tape and a multitool as a hammer. I used those and sandpaper. When it worked the first time after installing it, I took the file included in the multitool to sand a little off for some breathing room due to the fact the trigger would be right up next to the frame when it would go off. Overall, it took me about 75-90 minutes all things considered.

I'm taking it to the range tomorrow afternoon, will let you know if I turned my 5.25 9mm into a 19rd burst pistol on accident.

Thanks for that info. That last line was a classic.

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Trigger came in today, I just put it in. It's a ridiculously short reset, light pull, and crisp break. I don't have enough material sanded off, the trigger breaks oh say about 1/1000th of an inch before the overtravel stop touches the frame.

I am also looking pretty hard at this trigger. I have watched the videos numerous times already. How long did it take you to put it in? What sizes punches did you use (can't remember from the video)? My last question and this one is for anyone that has put one of these in. Small, big or huge improvement over the stock trigger? Or is it a must have????? Thanks

There is a night and day difference between the stock and the PRP Ultimate Match. The trigger sets and resets in a hair less than the space required for the stock trigger to reset.

I actually used an Allen wrench to poke the pins out and when the trigger pins came up to bat I used a bigger Allen wrench with a touch of electrician's tape and a multitool as a hammer. I used those and sandpaper. When it worked the first time after installing it, I took the file included in the multitool to sand a little off for some breathing room due to the fact the trigger would be right up next to the frame when it would go off. Overall, it took me about 75-90 minutes all things considered.

I'm taking it to the range tomorrow afternoon, will let you know if I turned my 5.25 9mm into a 19rd burst pistol on accident.

Thanks for that info. That last line was a classic.

Well, no 19rd burst pistol this range trip. The trigger's pretty flippin sweet, but it doesn't help accuracy if accuracy is a weak spot for you.

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Well I got my PRP Ultimate match trigger installed. About all I can say is it's only half the trigger it used to be. Half the pull weight, half the pull length and less than half the over-travel. It's pretty friggen sweet!

There was some fitting involved, but nothing serious or difficult. My starting pull weight measured on a Lyman digital scale was 6lbs 10oz. Now it's 3lbs 4oz and barely even feels like a striker fired gun. Two thumbs up from this guy!!

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What did you have to do the most work on? Did you use sandpaper or file? If sandpaper what grit were you using? Going to order mine this Thursday did you (or any else above) order any other parts to help reduce the trigger pull weight?

I asked this question down on the PRP site but I'm sure they are busy so I will ask it here.

On there site is says the Ultimate match trigger comes with the reduced trigger spring but on their site they offer a competition trigger spring for 5.95. Is this the spring that comes in the kit or would this be an upgrade to reduce the trigger weight?

Edited by swedge58
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Got my new XDm back from the Powder River Shop yesterday, and shot a Steel match with it today. Luv this new trigger, and this one was put in by PRP (I did my first XDm). 3# pull and it shoots like butter :-)

557965_2943020550777_1313363689_n.jpg

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I was using 320 grit sandpaper, but I abandoned that in favor for a file after an hour in... The most frustrating part of the trigger install for me was the spring you have to defeat in order to take out and insert the takedown pin in order to access the trigger.

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What did you have to do the most work on? Did you use sandpaper or file? If sandpaper what grit were you using? Going to order mine this Thursday did you (or any else above) order any other parts to help reduce the trigger pull weight?

I asked this question down on the PRP site but I'm sure they are busy so I will ask it here.

On there site is says the Ultimate match trigger comes with the reduced trigger spring but on their site they offer a competition trigger spring for 5.95. Is this the spring that comes in the kit or would this be an upgrade to reduce the trigger weight?

I had to do some fitting on the sear for the grip safety and also take a touch off the side of the sear for it too rotate freely. You also have to fit the over-travel stop on the trigger itself. I used a combination of 180 and 320 sandpaper on an aluminum block and a stone for the work on the sear. I also polished up the sides with a Cratex wheel in the dremel. For the over-travel I just used sandpaper as it's only plastic. Fitting the over-travel took more time than anything. I was careful not to take too much off at once, so I bet I had that thing apart 5 times before I got it right. Then I did the freezer test (which is a must here in MN) and got to do it 2 more times. I was surprised at how much material had to be removed. Once done it was worth it though. Night and day difference from the stock trigger.

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