Glockworx vs Jager strickers

[Ninja Moose]

I have a Glockworx striker that came with the Fulcrum trigger and have not had any problems using it in my G34.

[Nimitz]

Here's one more useless opinion ... Used both, kept the Glockworx, sold the Jäger..... Chevy vs Ford ....

[earthshine402]

Install a G35 firing pin in your G34 and you will have an extended firing pin.

I'm pretty sure this is wrong.. I thought that the 9mm and .40 striker are the same part.

Edit:

I've measured the factory, glockworx, and jager strikers. The aftermarket ones both have extended tips.

Edited May 14, 2013 by earthshine402

[cpa5oh]

I measured the 9mm stock, .40 stock, and Jager strikers a while back...here's what I got (using a dial caliper):

The 9mm stock measured 1.185"

The .40 stock measured 1.188"

The Jager measured 1.196"

So the .40 stock pin is .003" longer than the 9mm (I can't see that difference with my naked eyes) and the Jager is .011" longer (I can see that difference.)

[Fate0n3]

I was just in the market for a striker, I am glade I saw this thread. Looks like I am getting a Jager.

[dskinsler83]

Is theglockworks really that much diff from the jäger?

[JBP55]

Install a G35 firing pin in your G34 and you will have an extended firing pin.

I'm pretty sure this is wrong.. I thought that the 9mm and .40 striker are the same part.

Edit:

I've measured the factory, glockworx, and jager strikers. The aftermarket ones both have extended tips.

I am sure it is correct and Glock makes three diffferent firing pins. For simplicity the 9mm has one hash mark, the .40 has two marks and the .45 has 3 marks. The .45 is longer and weights more than the .40, the .40 is longer and weights more than the 9mm.

[earthshine402]

news to me. maybe i got confused because zev's striker is for 9/40. thanks for the info.

[Tyro Shooter]

Zev manufacturer's Two different Stainless Steel Skeletonized Strikers

One for the 45acp & 10mm Glocks and the other for the 9mm, 40S&W & 357Sig frames

I believe that Glock does mark the two that they make with specific part numbers / markings for the different calibers.

[Rob01]

Anyone using these lightened strikers with Tula or other hard primers? Reason i ask is that I shoot Hornady Steel Match 9mm and I have to use a 5 pound striker spring with the factory striker to make sure I don't get light strikes. The 4.5 pound works about 95% of the time and the 4 pound about 75%. I have Vogal triggers in my 34 and 35 and the trigger pull is nice but I would like to try a lightened striker and spring and see if it helps trigger feel but just worried about light strikes. Any info is appreciated.

[cpa5oh]

6 lb striker spring with jager striker and I don't get light strikes with Tula primers. With a lighter spring (not sure if it were 4.5 or 5 - got them mixed up and couldn't tell which one I had in) I was getting a light strike every 100 rounds...not terrible for practice, but unacceptable for matches.

[Rob01]

Thanks for the info. Looks like I will stick with my current set up.

[Tyro Shooter]

Light strikes / Glocks / Lightened Striker springs.

here is a list of a few things that we have found that may possibly cause light strikes

(either individuality or a little of each)

Firing Pin Safety plunger:

the channel must be clean. I mean really clean, if the plunger does not fall out from the force of gravity when you turn the slide over. . . it's too dirty,

If your FPS is having to be shoved out of the way by the trigger bar, it is possible it's not cleared when the striker sails by, this will slow the striker and reduce it's forward energy and cause a light hit.

Striker Channel and inside Breach Face:

this too must be really clean. if there is too much debris (unburned powder, carbon fouling, primer cup coating flakes, oil) inside the channel and caked on the inside of the breach face,

this too can cause the striker to not go far enough forward to get a good hit on the primer.

Spring Cups:

when you change to the Super Light striker spring and magic alloy striker. . .did you change out the spring cups??

too much debris (see list above) embeded in the spring cups will cause drag and slow down the striker.

Trigger Bar:

Did you get a wee too aggressive with polishing the "Birdshead" on the trigger bar?????

taking off any material from the trigger bar where it disengages the FPS can cause the FPS not to move up out of the way far enough and the striker will hit it on the way by.

Reloads:

Did you seat the primers all the way down? . . . On every load? . . . Did you check . . . . Every Load??

with the extended tip on our strikers it is possible to "Seat" a primer that is just a few thousandths high when it hit by the striker.

Factory Ammo (and their Primers)

there are some big name ammunition manufacturers out there that are working very hard at building a very bad reputation for their budget brand pistol ammunition.

they are using primers that will go "Click" about 4 times in 50,

Also be warned that any "Green" or "Lead free" primers have a shelf life of about 3 months

(After 8 years as a firearms instructor having to use "Green" ammo that whole time and I'm not impressed with the sales reps spin or stories to the contrary . . . .

25% failure rate after the 3-4 month mark)

Normal wear on the Striker:

8-10 thousand rounds, (this could be 30 years to most or just a good 3 months to others)

start to look for wear on the tip of the striker, is it chipped? is it worn down?

a striker that is not in spec, or worn down will cause light strikes.

Lightened Strikers:

Stainless Steel, exotic alloys or Skeletonized, when combined with a light spring they will greatly improve the trigger pull.

but you will still need to have enough force (mass) moving forwards, reliably hitting the primmer to set it off.

some times an exotic alloy (in pretty colors) with a 2 lb spring will not have that required amount of force to set of the primers every time,

so some times an extended tip is added, . . . . .

Grip:

yeah , I've seen it happen,

A poor grip and bad follow through, could be another cause.

Striker springs: (Finally back to the original subject)

a 2lb, 3ld, 4lb, 5lb, 6lb or what ever the local garage smith has fabricated (well i read once on the internet that this guy . . . . .)

the fact is that there is some variation in tolerances in all Glocks, that means sometimes a lightened spring will just not get the job done with your striker every time.

Our recomandation is to try (on a clean gun) the different weight springs with your setup and the primary ammunition you plan on using.

[JBP55]

Light strikes / Glocks / Lightened Striker springs.

here is a list of a few things that we have found that may possibly cause light strikes

(either individuality or a little of each)

Firing Pin Safety plunger:

the channel must be clean. I mean really clean, if the plunger does not fall out from the force of gravity when you turn the slide over. . . it's too dirty,

If your FPS is having to be shoved out of the way by the trigger bar, it is possible it's not cleared when the striker sails by, this will slow the striker and reduce it's forward energy and cause a light hit.

Striker Channel and inside Breach Face:

this too must be really clean. if there is too much debris (unburned powder, carbon fouling, primer cup coating flakes, oil) inside the channel and caked on the inside of the breach face,

this too can cause the striker to not go far enough forward to get a good hit on the primer.

Spring Cups:

when you change to the Super Light striker spring and magic alloy striker. . .did you change out the spring cups??

too much debris (see list above) embeded in the spring cups will cause drag and slow down the striker.

Trigger Bar:

Did you get a wee too aggressive with polishing the "Birdshead" on the trigger bar?????

taking off any material from the trigger bar where it disengages the FPS can cause the FPS not to move up out of the way far enough and the striker will hit it on the way by.

Reloads:

Did you seat the primers all the way down? . . . On every load? . . . Did you check . . . . Every Load??

with the extended tip on our strikers it is possible to "Seat" a primer that is just a few thousandths high when it hit by the striker.

Factory Ammo (and their Primers)

there are some big name ammunition manufacturers out there that are working very hard at building a very bad reputation for their budget brand pistol ammunition.

they are using primers that will go "Click" about 4 times in 50,

Also be warned that any "Green" or "Lead free" primers have a shelf life of about 3 months

(After 8 years as a firearms instructor having to use "Green" ammo that whole time and I'm not impressed with the sales reps spin or stories to the contrary . . . .

25% failure rate after the 3-4 month mark)

Normal wear on the Striker:

8-10 thousand rounds, (this could be 30 years to most or just a good 3 months to others)

start to look for wear on the tip of the striker, is it chipped? is it worn down?

a striker that is not in spec, or worn down will cause light strikes.

Lightened Strikers:

Stainless Steel, exotic alloys or Skeletonized, when combined with a light spring they will greatly improve the trigger pull.

but you will still need to have enough force (mass) moving forwards, reliably hitting the primmer to set it off.

some times an exotic alloy (in pretty colors) with a 2 lb spring will not have that required amount of force to set of the primers every time,

so some times an extended tip is added, . . . . .

Grip:

yeah , I've seen it happen,

A poor grip and bad follow through, could be another cause.

Striker springs: (Finally back to the original subject)

a 2lb, 3ld, 4lb, 5lb, 6lb or what ever the local garage smith has fabricated (well i read once on the internet that this guy . . . . .)

the fact is that there is some variation in tolerances in all Glocks, that means sometimes a lightened spring will just not get the job done with your striker every time.

Our recomandation is to try (on a clean gun) the different weight springs with your setup and the primary ammunition you plan on using.

Good advice.

[Rob01]

Yup good advice but I know mine is down to hard primers and a light spring. Everything is clean, was only a few months old and I got my first Glock in 1988 so I know how to shoot them. I was just hoping the light striker and lighter spring would make up for the velocity loss from the light spring and stock striker. Not really worth $80 to me to find out.

[dskinsler83]

Yup good advice but I know mine is down to hard primers and a light spring. Everything is clean, was only a few months old and I got my first Glock in 1988 so I know how to shoot them. I was just hoping the light striker and lighter spring would make up for the velocity loss from the light spring and stock striker. Not really worth $80 to me to find out.

I talked to Ty yesterday. Great CS! As for the Ext Tip V4 Striker I use it w/ the 2lb spring and Comp Standard Trigger bar. It sets off Tula SPP just fine as long as I do my part on seating them. Great triggers I am not sponsored by GW but I use their components in all my GLOCK triggers and most other GLOCK upgrades. Love the stuff and will be getting a 24 slide and an open top end from them as well

[Th3Un4givin]

+1 for the Jager.

[McGlock]

Just got my Jager striker from shooters connection. I will be ordering another one for my production glock in a few months. This thing rocks! Very nicely built and seems very structurally sound! Seen too many of the other strikers that have too much taken out, therefore they break....

[whatsupglock]

I run stock. I like the lightning strike of all the after market strikers the best. I have had 2 Jager strikers. Shot them both in only one match and they broke. I won't be getting a third. Maybe it was just bad luck. I know a lot of people have them, use them and love them. I didn't feel the love.

The first time the striker broke, it was replaced, but I had to wait a while to get one. I was very excited to run one in the gun again and unfortunately it broke as well. I am sure Jager would replace it, but I am not interested in messing with it any more.

[dzhitshard]

Got 2 Jager LW stricker kits in the mail on friday. put one in the G35 on Sun w/the included spring & something is a miss.

NIGHTMARE rough pull & reset. Drop stock striker w/zev spring (as it was assembled when I started fiddling) & back to previous acceptable pull & reset conditions.

It was cleaned after dissasemble & prior to putting it together with the Jager. The striker channel was clean with no debris but I was pressed for time & couldn't spend any more on diagnosing the issue.

Anyone have any off the top ideas? I don't have a lot of time to fiddle with it as there's a classifier match this weekend & sectionals follow shortly.

[earthshine402]

Got 2 Jager LW stricker kits in the mail on friday. put one in the G35 on Sun w/the included spring & something is a miss.

NIGHTMARE rough pull & reset. Drop stock striker w/zev spring (as it was assembled when I started fiddling) & back to previous acceptable pull & reset conditions.

It was cleaned after dissasemble & prior to putting it together with the Jager. The striker channel was clean with no debris but I was pressed for time & couldn't spend any more on diagnosing the issue.

Anyone have any off the top ideas? I don't have a lot of time to fiddle with it as there's a classifier match this weekend & sectionals follow shortly.

is everything assembled properly - the spring cups on the striker, and more importantly - the trigger spring - sometimes when you go to put it in the housing, the spring goes off to the side and if you assemble it like that the pull is terrible. Make sure the trigger return spring is straight when re-assembling.