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Thank you!

Thanks for the replies. Ill call grams or order grams spring/follower kits. How many coil springs do I want? I've got a few mags with 11, a few with 13...

I need new springs for my 140mm magazines. I use Grams followers. Grams replacement springs are out of stock at both places I normally would buy stuff from (shooters connection and CPWSA). There are other options available: arredondo "+10%", wolff, taran tactical, MBX, and ISMI. Anyone have any recommendation on what I should get? Not sure which will work with Grams followers. Other option is to just buy Grams spring/follower kits - it's double the cost but maybe it's the way to go?

Did some searching for "victorious grip tape"... What I found was "vicious grip tape": had to sit through a skateboarding video in the process. It's available on Amazon and other websites but the problem is that black is out of stock (it's even out of stock on the manufacturer's website). The video I sat through mentioned "Madrid Thumb Cutter" grip tape as equivalent to Vicious and that was available on Ebay so I bought some. Doesn't seem very economical (either brand) compared to other grip tape: looks like you get 4 10x11" squares for about $22 as compared to regular grip tape at around $5-$7 for a sheet big enough to cover a skateboard (which I think is about 10x33"). Price doesn't much matter to me because I only shoot on weekends so as long as it's semi-durable I shouldn't be burning through the stuff. More interestingly, the video I watched talked about cleaning grip tape: a product called "Grip Gum" was recommended as was whatever it is that is used to clean belt sanding belts. Amazon popped up this and I ordered it: https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71002-Abrasive-Cleaning-Stick/dp/B00AJW0CY8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498648359&sr=8-3&keywords=grip+gum

I don't think set-back could be an issue - with the U die and .401 bullets there's a lot of tension up at that bullet. But definitely the gun being just slightly out of battery because a round didn't completely chamber is a possibility. The chamber was dirty enough where rounds weren't passing the "plunk" test until I cleaned it. I've gotten rid of the extended firing pin and cleaned the barrel very good and plan to clean it after every couple of hundred rounds - if that doesn't do the trick I won't be sure what to try next, but I think it's going to work.

Great idea with the sharpie - I'll do this. Definitely have enough neck tension - I'm running coated bullets into dies sized with a Lee "U" die and the case has a noticeable bulge to it up at the top where the bullet goes.

That's s great point and probably blows up my firing pin getting stuck theory. Beyond your comment, now that I think about it, I'd have been getting doubles if the pin was stuck hanging out through the breechface. i guess I'm left with a dirty chamber not allowing bullets to fully seat and somehow the gun being capable of setting such a round off.

I do chamber check every round using the Ben stoeger/shock bottle chamber checker. Rounds that pass that checker all plop right into the barrel chamber when it's clean. However, that chamber was dirty enough to where rounds weren't plopping in free and clear. i made several changes and ran 100 trouble free rounds through it: went back to the stock firing pin, upped the mainspring to 19 (so I wouldn't get light strikes), tuned the extractor, and cleaned the barrel real well. Fingers crossed that I won't have more blowouts. thank you for all of the replies they were very helpful. I'll report back so that in the future if anyone looks this topic up an answer will be in the thread.

I do load my ammo short (1.130") because I mainly shoot a CZ Tactical Sport in Limited, but that's always been the case and this case blowout shit is a new phenomenon.

I don't think anything external is different between an AET and non-AET barrel (could be way wrong, though). I thought it was just a little difference to the chamber and more difference to the rifling (gain-twist). Gonna try the factory (non-extended) firing pin, extractor adjustment, and a new firing pin spring and see if that doesn't end the case blowouts.

Barrel is AET. I am reloading my own ammunition. 180 grain coated bullet with 4.2 grains of Ramshot Competition. Same reloading setup/load as I have used without problems for the last three years loading .40 (and currently shoot from other guns). Brass is mixed range pickup stuff. If I have to start sorting brass to shoot this gun it'll be on gunbroker at a fire sale price :-)

I've got an STI Apeiro and, in the last week, I've had 4 case backs blowout. They definitely aren't over/double-charged rounds - the explosion isn't violent at all and the same batches of ammo have been run through other guns (including another 2011) and I've had no issues. I know that I had zero extractor tension (had failure to extract incidences the last few times I shot it, checked it, and the extractor wasn't holding cases to the breechface at all - could slide a case right through the extractor and the extractor almost wouldn't touch the case). Not sure if that could be a cause of case blowouts - I'd imagine that improper tension wouldn't cause blow outs, but maybe a complete lack of any tension at all could? Only other thing I can think is that I remember the extended firing pin being a tight fit in the breechface - might be possible that occasionally it's getting hung up and catching the back of the primer just before the slide closes... Anyone have any experience with 2011 case blowouts and any thoughts on what the causes could be? Thanks!

Just got an email reply from them: you have to order 10 at a time. I imagine that means they don't want to be bothered by non-builders (or local gunsmiths).

I'm sure that it does not.

As of right now, based on vendor websites, it looks like the only options for 2011 frames are: - STI frame "kit" - CK Arms The STI Frame "kit" costs $560 (for the long, wide dustcover version) and the CK arms $250 (and already comes with a ramp cut). I know you get the grip, trigger bow, mag catch, and frame bushings/screws with the STI frame "kit", but I think that's about it versus a bare CK arms frame. Assuming you'd want a metal grip, extended mag release, and SVI trigger shoe you would be tossing everything that that comes in the "kit" besides the bare frame. Am I missing a reason to go with the STI Frame "kit" over the CK arms? Or am I missing another option? (I think Phoenix Trinity requires a purchase of 10 frames minimum and I'm not building 10 guns; I don't think STI sells just the bare frame without the rest of the "kit".)

Great stuff Cha-Lee thank you so much! I will try all of those suggestions. I do struggle to 'grip the gun hard' when hosing (which is when I get hammer follow) because if I do I trigger freeze. I put a Wilson hammer and sear in this gun as well as a Cylinder & Slide/Extreme Engineering hammer and sear - neither pass the 'zip tie test': two guns, three brands of hammer/sear = the zip tie test is not a real test and any light triggered 19/2011 would fail it (I think).

There is another evil actor that can contribute to "hammer bounce" effect. The trigger also has mass, so it has inertia. When the frame bangs forward after the slide slams home, the trigger tries to remain at rest and therefore applies a tiny rearward pressure to the disconnector/sear at the instant it hits. That "tiny" trigger pull force moves the sear slightly and can add to the separation distance between the hammer hook and the sear nose.... making it worse when the hammer bounces back into contact with the sear. If the sear spring is very light, it can allow the hammer to drop to the half cock notch. This is the reason for those very expensive ultra-light triggers you see on comp guns (and the fact that they look cool). Found this on another board when searching for "trigger bounce" and "hammer bounce". I think this accurately describes the reason for the failure of both of my guns in the zip tie test. So the only thing, then, that I don't understand is how my finger is getting the trigger back to the pre-travel area/reset point BEFORE the slide returns from battery: everyone I talk to says it isn't possible to run the trigger faster than the slide cycles. Maybe it's that, while it isn't possible to get to the pre-travel/reset point AND pull the trigger before the slide returns from battery, it IS possible to to just get back to the pre-travel/reset point...

If this is the case, both of my triggers (2011 that gunsmith did and 1911 that I did) are safe and I'm somehow bump fire them: neither of them ever hammer follow with violent racking with the trigger all the way out.

Well this is interesting - so would you say that if a slide being crashed on an empty chamber DOESN'T produce hammer follow that the trigger is probably very unlikely to hammer follow in live fire?

19 times. Seriously, way too many. But I've started using dummy rounds (no primer). It happens with two guns (both with egw parts). One of them had brand a brand new trigger job/parts. I've got a Wilson and cylinder & slide group arriving today: going to see if those don't have the same result. I know that crashing the slide isn't a good thing - it just feels wrong :-). But what else do I do (other than make sure there's a dummy round in there)? IF there's a way to prevent this trigger bounce/whatever it is (and I like shooting a 2011 more than my CZ tactical sports), I'll build another gun and relegate these to backups.

17 lb on the mainspring, but I did swap a 19 in and it made no difference (that I could tell). Not sure what hammer strut is in here: I imagine whatever is less expensive. I never considered trying a different one because I can't see how that'd be involved with this problem.

I appreciate the help Cha-Lee (and everyone). I turned up the sear spring pressure and had to go up to where the trigger is at 4.5 lbs to get it to not hammer follow/trigger bounce/whatever the hell this is. A really good gunsmith did the current trigger job on it - I may have to call him tomorrow. Kinda trying not to bother him again - half of me thinks that no 1911/2011 with a 2 lb trigger would pass the zip tied trigger/slide stop crash test and that it's my goofy way of going about trigger control that is the real problem. I have a 1911 with the same trigger parts (all EGW) as this 2011 and it doesn't pass that zip tied trigger/slide stop crash test. Plus, if I can't work on it, I won't shoot it. Knowing how to work on what I shoot is a part of the hobby - I'll spend any amount of money on tools and parts, but it's important that I understand what's going on. I won't shoot this gun again until it either passes the zip tied trigger test or I'm sure it'll always follow to the half-cock notch (my 1911 always catches on the half-cock notch when I do the test).

Yeah the problem with that - I've put a TON of tension on that middle leg of the spring and it still happens...only when I had the trigger well over 5 lbs did it stop, and at that point, it doesn't matter because none of us are gonna shoot a 6 lb trigger.

I did the same test with the trigger 'trapped' front to back (pinned it to the side) - it doesn't appear to hammer follow! (Did it 10 or 20 times.) Now to find out what to do about "trigger bounce"...

So, with a 1911/2011, if you only let the trigger out to the reset point but you get there before the slide closes the hammer is going to follow? And whether the half cock notch catches (and saves you from a double) or not depends on how much pre-travel you have adjusted into the trigger? Which would mean that I'd make any 1911/2011 on earth hammer follow (or double, if not setup right) with my trigger technique?