StraightUp_OG Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 (edited) Thanks Warren! Great tips! To save time on the vid I did not go through the mill setup but I do use the indicator on the mill table and bed of the vise as a matter of best practice. It is nice to hear that I am on the right track since I have picked all of this up on the fly with the help of the folks in this thread. @bmiller - http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1249&category=1319044103 is the test indicator and they used to sell the spindle mount but I could not find it on their site. @Daniel - I saw your email and I will respond later today. Thanks guys I will keep up the vidz as I have time. Edited December 18, 2014 by StraightUp_OG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Ok here is a good question too. What kind of degreaser do you guys use before cerakoting and what grit and material of abrasive do you use for your work to prep the metal? Like and in the white receiver and slide to a glock slide to stainless steel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 We all love the videos I hope to be posting some in a few days too. LOL i cant put the ones of things being screwed up though :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 (edited) Acetone for the degreaser. You soak the part for a while then "Gas" it in the oven. Gassing leaches out any oil form the pours of the metal. You continue this process until the "gassing" no longer produces wet spots on the metal. I use 100/120 grit aluminum oxide for the blasting and surface prep. The Cerakote instructions are pretty good and I follow them to the letter and get pretty good results. http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/resources/files/Cerakote-Training-Manual-Web.pdf Edited December 19, 2014 by StraightUp_OG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIIID Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 I start with CRC Electronic Cleaner, use a heat gun to dry it off and repeat until there is no visible contaminates. Then I use acetone followed with heat, any cleaner that you use should be checked to see if petroleum is listed in the contents, if it is don't use it. One of the hardest part to clean is a Bo-mar style sight, the rear blade assembly holds oil big time. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC730 Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 what would be a better machine to play around with slide and ar lowers and 2011 frames? the little machine shop mini mill or g0704 ? would like to get one up and runing for less then $1500 but want something that im not going to regret buying if i find out that i enjoy machine work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianATL Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 The G0704 is a better machine but cost a little more. Either way I would budget for some type of digital readout system it makes things a lot less frustrating Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 (edited) So I have said this many times in the thread and in PMs to other members. If I had to do it all over again I would most likely get a BF20 class mill like the g0704 but every time I consider upgrading I have a hard time justifying it because my LMS does everything I need and want it to do. If you have the funds to go bigger then go bigger just know that either way you go you will not regret it and AR lowers and all things 1911/2011 can be done on the LMS just fine. Edited December 20, 2014 by StraightUp_OG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC730 Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 G0704 has digital read out doesn't it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 The DRO is on the spindle but not the XYZ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC730 Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 thanks that is good to hear about the lms able to do anything 1911/2011 and ar lowers . have you tried to sell it ? just currious if it hold value well. it would be nice to get my feet wet with a quality machine able to do what i want with a lower cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 I have not, my guess is the resale value would be 25-30% less than I have into it. You can't go wrong either way. If you have the space and the bank roll to go a little bigger in the beginning then I would say go BF20 but consider that the mill is just the first part of the investment. Tooling, accessories etc. add up quick. Make sure your budget considerations includes those costs and that will make the mill decision a little easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinj308 Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 The G0759 that Daniel is looking at is a G0704 with DRO. If no plans to go CNC it seems like a pretty cool setup to me. I've really enjoyed my G0704, perfect size for me. @StraightUp-awesome video! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinj308 Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 Here's the link https://www.grizzly.com/products/Mill-Drill-with-Stand-and-DRO/G0759 I think it's a really good value. Get some R8 collets or go TTS and away you go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinj308 Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 I have not, my guess is the resale value would be 25-30% less than I have into it. You can't go wrong either way. If you have the space and the bank roll to go a little bigger in the beginning then I would say go BF20 but consider that the mill is just the first part of the investment. Tooling, accessories etc. add up quick. Make sure your budget considerations includes those costs and that will make the mill decision a little easier. +1 on the cost of tooling, for me It was just about the same price as the machine by the time I was done. I went with Shars vise and ebay tool holders, so it wasn't like I bought high end. It still was at least $1k to get started. I think all those costs would be the same though with an X2 or BF20/0704. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billdozer Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Is there a website you can buy used ones that people have outgrown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jid2 Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 The community is pretty small. Most end up on craigslist, some guys sell them on CNC Zone, some on ebay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 I want the G0759 for sure but my HF is doing what I need for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griz Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 (edited) If you can, get a manual pulse generator to move the mill around with when doing small movements. That is an electronic handwheel that you can move the mill around with just like a manual machine, one axis at a time. You can also use it to mill with if you have something you don't want to write a program for. It is much easier and more controllable than jogging. I use this pendant with my X2 run by Mach3: http://www.vistacnc.com/b08_pendant_P2/pendant_p2-S.htm It's like a manual mill with a remote control To the guys looking at benchtop mills, if I had it to do over, I would skip the DRO and convert it to CNC from day 1. If you spend money on a DRO, you'll have to rip all that out when you convert to CNC. Edited December 21, 2014 by Griz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg308 Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 I agree with OG, go with cnc day 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AICS308 Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 Here's the link https://www.grizzly.com/products/Mill-Drill-with-Stand-and-DRO/G0759 I think it's a really good value. Get some R8 collets or go TTS and away you go. I've been following this thread and it's been very interesting. I have a question about the tilting head on the G0759. I thought the solid column was the way to go because of stability. Does the tilting head compromise stability? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinj308 Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 (edited) Not in my experience. I'm not sure if there is a solid column version of the g0704/0759/bf20. They're all pretty much the same machine. The early models of the mill only had one bolt securing the head to the z column rider/car/traveller whatchamacallit. The part that actually travels on the dovetails. Somebody came up with the idea of adding 3 additional bolts to secure the head and now they come that way from the seller, at least from Grizzly. I don't have a ton of hours on my mill, but I do follow all things g0704 on Cnczone.com and I haven't heard of any issues once the extra 3 bolts were added. Also a contributor on cnczone named machinechick came up with these super cool tramming aids. Just a block bolted to the z rider and a set scew and lock not that adjusts the head, I'm sure they help securing it as well. Easy to make and really help getting it trammed in. I think I made mine out of 1/2 inch key stock. Come to think of it she might have come up with the 3 bolt mod too. Kevin ETA to add a pic of the extra 3 bolts. The original bolt is in the center and now they come with the other 3 arount the circumference of the attaching point. Pic off google, not my mill. Edited December 22, 2014 by kevinj308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AICS308 Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 Thx kevinj308, good information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 If you can, get a manual pulse generator to move the mill around with when doing small movements. That is an electronic handwheel that you can move the mill around with just like a manual machine, one axis at a time. You can also use it to mill with if you have something you don't want to write a program for. It is much easier and more controllable than jogging. I use this pendant with my X2 run by Mach3: http://www.vistacnc.com/b08_pendant_P2/pendant_p2-S.htm It's like a manual mill with a remote control To the guys looking at benchtop mills, if I had it to do over, I would skip the DRO and convert it to CNC from day 1. If you spend money on a DRO, you'll have to rip all that out when you convert to CNC. P2s-v2-s.jpg That won't work with LinuxCNC. Last year I was using a hack for a game controller but the hack was shit and earlier in the thread you will find where I bumped it and it took a chunk out of a slide. This weekend I found a MUCH better way to program the game controller to act as a pendant and I will post a video later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 What is the rpm for the 2" face mill OG using the yavapi jig and cutting an STI carbon steel slide? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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