amish_rabbi Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 well, I'm very much still learning this machining thing. This took me several hours and my first broken endmill.... Yea not the best endmill for the job but the biggest 4 flute one I had one hand, need a face mill clearly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 My feeds and speeds still suck lol what is the RPM for the face mill again? On 416 stainless and I was using a 90° cutter at 800-900 last night when my stuff messed up. To deep of a cut for one and I forgot to re lock the head <---dumb a$$ lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Also does anyone have a good list of steps or a video on slide mounting/indexing in the vise? I'm basically just leveling both axis with a level after squaring the vise with my dial indictator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jid2 Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Harpcustom on you tube shows some good tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Yeah I have seen his vids just the detail in slide set up is not there. I learn from seeing I guess. I have a hard time repeating the same cut from one side of the slide to the next (ie, tri topping etc). OG and I have talked about this more than once lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianATL Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Also does anyone have a good list of steps or a video on slide mounting/indexing in the vise? I'm basically just leveling both axis with a level after squaring the vise with my dial indictator I get better results indicating in the slide not the vise, the top and bottom of a 1911 slide are not parallel. Are you tri topping with one setup or resetting for both sides ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Well at the moment I have only been working on glock strikers, GLOCK and LoneWolf slides (which are not equal square or anything else lol unless I'm setting up wrong) the cuts never look dead on equal with my eyes. It'll take more of a cut on one side than the other to get the 45° bevel to even look close to the same. I am waiting on doing my 1911 slide until I know I can get it right if that makes sense. It's not the machine it's me I always make sure my vise is square before I start anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 To answer the question on set up I bought a 90° cutter after seeing a guy here post about it and only having to set up once and just cut both sides and I have also tried the set up for ea side which was really sloppy with that one using and angle vise. I figured the one set up using the 90° cutter would have been easier (it would have been if I hadn't made my stupid rookie mistake last night) but even then it didn't "look" exact as the other side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianATL Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Did you indicate the slide in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Like running length wise with dial indicator? Lol hmm maybe that is my issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianATL Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Yes it should be indicated In for level and square regardless of the vise being square. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 So indicate the slide in the vise not the vise but indicate it like I would a vise! That makes sense! Sometimes it's the simplest answer...now I deff feel retarded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amish_rabbi Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 (edited) yea you have to indicate off the slide to get it level, took me a good 30 min to do that yesterday on my slide. that 90 degree cutter is also ripping off big chunks of metal, I would be taking small cuts with it on a hobby sized mill. also, my clamping solution is not recommended lol. It's not very rigid edit: indicate the vise AND then indicate the slide once it is on your fixture Edited December 12, 2014 by amish_rabbi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Yeah I do small cuts no more that 20thou at a time ever and usually 5-10 on slides. Still learning and love it lol but don't love the expensive lesson lmao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Seems I'm missin a piece of equipment. I have a dial "test" indicator but not a dial indicator with base. Guess I'll be ordering one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amish_rabbi Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 can you mount your dial test indicator at 90 degrees in your spindle? or attached to the head, that's a way around it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted December 12, 2014 Author Share Posted December 12, 2014 I attach my test indicator on my spindle. First I square the vise and then the slide. I can take a pic of the set up this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 (edited) Awesome thanks guys And the needle on my test indicator is indexable yes so that can be used? Edited December 12, 2014 by dskinsler83 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Make an angle block for the slide out of aluminum. You want it at the exact angle and height for the top of the slide. Make the block a little narrower than the slide and long enough to go from the spring tunnel to the back end. Put a slide in the vise, resting on the bottom and the alum. block on top of it with a shim on one side to make it wider than the slide. Mill the top of the alum. flat with an end mill or face mill. You now have a setup block with the exact taper to make the top of the slide level just by placing it under the slide in the vise. No measuring required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 I have a yavapi jig for the 1911 stuff when I get to that but they don't make that for the GLOCK so I have been trying diff set ups Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmiller Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Make an angle block for the slide out of aluminum. You want it at the exact angle and height for the top of the slide. Make the block a little narrower than the slide and long enough to go from the spring tunnel to the back end. Put a slide in the vise, resting on the bottom and the alum. block on top of it with a shim on one side to make it wider than the slide. Mill the top of the alum. flat with an end mill or face mill. You now have a setup block with the exact taper to make the top of the slide level just by placing it under the slide in the vise. No measuring required. Pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted December 13, 2014 Author Share Posted December 13, 2014 Make an angle block for the slide out of aluminum. You want it at the exact angle and height for the top of the slide. Make the block a little narrower than the slide and long enough to go from the spring tunnel to the back end. Put a slide in the vise, resting on the bottom and the alum. block on top of it with a shim on one side to make it wider than the slide. Mill the top of the alum. flat with an end mill or face mill. You now have a setup block with the exact taper to make the top of the slide level just by placing it under the slide in the vise. No measuring required. That is an awesome tip! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Make an angle block for the slide out of aluminum. You want it at the exact angle and height for the top of the slide. Make the block a little narrower than the slide and long enough to go from the spring tunnel to the back end. Put a slide in the vise, resting on the bottom and the alum. block on top of it with a shim on one side to make it wider than the slide. Mill the top of the alum. flat with an end mill or face mill. You now have a setup block with the exact taper to make the top of the slide level just by placing it under the slide in the vise. No measuring required. That is an awesome tip! Thanks! I'm lost how will this maintain repeatable cuts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightUp_OG Posted December 13, 2014 Author Share Posted December 13, 2014 I will try to find the time this weekend to make a video of the squaring, indicating and machining of this jig and flat topping of my trashed slide. This should help and I have not contributed to the thread in a while so it will get me off the snide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amish_rabbi Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 makes sense, then you can just remill that block for the next slide. smart. as mush as I don't like posting my screw ups, here is the adventure I had flat topping my slide. Fought me every step of the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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