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1050 Advice Please


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Hey fellas, so exactly 1 year into reloading I am addicted. I honestly do not do near the amount most do but, I can say I really enjoy it! I started off loading on a XL650 press that I found in a yard sale... Since I had no idea what I was doing I was able to find a seasoned reloader in my area to assist me in set up and understanding everything. 6 months into loading I bought a second 650 so I could have one machine set up for small primers and one set up for large primers.

For the last year I have been loading 9mm, 38/357, 10mm, and 45 acp... and had the quick swap stuff for all them. In and out change under 5mins (Since I didnt have to do anything to the primer feed). In the last 3 months I have really gotten into rifle shooting! I am currently loading precision loads on a single stage press (cant change that) but, with just have fun at the range loads I would like to attempt 223 loads.

Since, I have decided to do this, I sold my entire set up!! So... I am basically starting over but, moving into a 1050!!! I guess after reading everything from guys who have moved from a 650 to a 1050 and all the positive feedback I couldnt help myself. The other thing is, since I am going to load 223, I think it will be better to load them on a 1050 (could be wrong here).

So onto my question...

I have a budget of $3000.00 to start. I simply can not replace all 650 stuff with 1050 as its way out of the budget for me. I can and will add stuff as I move along but, I want to know what forum members thoughts are on what to buy first.

I think that since I am already loading 223 on a single stage press I can avoid buying any 223 stuff for now... I am also thinking since 10mm is the thing I load the least, I can get that later as well.

That leaves me with 45acp, 9mm, and 38/357. I already have all Dillon Carbide dies and think If I get the press set up for 38, I will then have a dedicated set of 357 dies and just need a quick swap change for the 357 (which isnt 100% necessary to start since I load way more 38). I can buy conversions of 45 acp and 9mm as well as two quick swap changes. I want to get 3 powder checks, a bullet tray, a pack of 6 Akro bins, and 1 low powder sensor (I can just throw that on whatever quick swap change I am using).

I can later buy a 3 more quick swap kits for 357,10mm, and 223 along with caliber conversions and a new set of Dillon 223 carbide dies.

The way I am breaking it down gets me right around my budget so I guess it makes sense. Thoughts?

Am I missing anything that you all think should be included on my initial order? I cant think of anything off the top of my head and since I have never loaded on a 1050 I figured I should ask this as well.

Thanks so much in advance for helping me make my purchase guys!

Edited by Cundiff5535
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I load the majority of my ammo on a RL 1050 and process 223 brass in it. I just added a 650 to dedicate to large primers which leaves the 1050 to load small primer items and things that require swaging.

While I have not even thought of doing any math or research I will tell you for me anything that requires swaging should go to your 1050. Anything that requires a processing step like 223 should get 2 tool heads with the first on the 1050. My 223 processing setup gets me to +- .002 which is good enough for MOA out to about 250-300 yards.

Did you sell one of your 650's for the included 3000$ budget?

The more I think about it the more I would recommend a Super 1050 in either 223 or 9mm. Why you ask? Because those calibers require the most swaging for the available range brass.

Retread.

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Ah yes, sorry... I was referring to a Super 1050 in my OP. And yes... selling my last set up is what is funding my next purchase... plus cash on my end. I fully get your point on swaging as well... just need to figure out what gets left out and what doesnt as the majority of hand gun stuff I shoot is 45 acp and 38 wadcutter (I shoot bullseye out of a S&W 52-2).

Biggest issue with 223 stuff is I only shoot outside from late April to early October. I have no place to shoot inside nor do I care to shoot 223 at an indoor range... I am not a cold weather guy so once its under 55 degrees... Im in for the rest of the winter...lol

Edited by Cundiff5535
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You know I have a friend who has the same 650 set up as you do and he has no real worries about moving to a single 1050.

The advice I have is think long and hard before selling the 650's.

You loose

Quick conversions

Cheap conversions.

Primer dedicated setups.

You gain

In line swaging

Priming on the downstroke

I may be missing some things but others will fill those in.

I have 6 1050 tool heads and still bought a 650 (used) for faster and cheaper conversions when in have known good brass that does not need swaging.

You can get into a 650 conversion for around 250 total. The 1050 conversions are more like 400 by the time you get all the required parts.

Read the FAQ's again and do more of what you are already doing. Asking the benoverse.

Retread.

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650's are long gone brother... Ha.

I knew what I was getting into with the price though to be honest. I guess I am reall looking for reassurance and advise on what the first calibers to buy are, and what accessories I def need on my original order... Just saying don't want to go to much over 3k.

I think that makes sense.

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Ok well that is a very different conversation. The real questions are around calibers then.

Q: what do you shoot the most? Start there and buy conversions.

You will,need the primer conversion for the one you do not choose so order that up front. IE if you order a Super in 9mm then buy the large primer conversion.

Quick changes are really about the amount of time between setups you are willing to put up with. If you can stand an entire day of setup between calibers then no reason to buy more than one tool head. If you are like me then the more the better. I want to be able to swap calibers in as little time as possible and still crank out the best round possible. That means dillon dies and dedicated tool heads.

Cheers

Retread

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I stand corrected, thanks Hoser! :)

With a thorough clean and lube when the head and shellplate are removed, swapping everything and getting back to loading the new caliber may take an hour, two if you take your time. Just changing heads and shellplates? Then maybe 30 minutes tops.

Using just one tool head would be painful... :)

Its no harder or slower to change out a 1050 than it is a 650. Yes, I have both.

The quick change-abity of the 1050 is a main selling point. The problem is the cost. Each tool head is about $225. Adds up quick if you want to load 4-5 calibers, but buy once, cry once...

JMHO

jj

Edited by RiggerJJ
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Yeah, I am seeing this... cost is MUCH higher for swapping out calibers. I went in knowing that as well!!

So, did we clear up weather or not the machine comes with both primer set up's or just one? Still am not seeing a clear answer on this. BTW, I would just call Dillon but, the phone has been busy over ther for a few days now.

Also, still looking for thoughts on what my initial buy should look like... I know ultiately its going to be what I load most but, Accessories etc.

Thanks

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Cundiff- it sounds to me like you have thought this out pretty well. I would call Brian and support him. Besides, from what I have heard, I believe your shipping may be free. And on a 1050, that is pretty stout.

Good Luck

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Cundiff- it sounds to me like you have thought this out pretty well. I would call Brian and support him. Besides, from what I have heard, I believe your shipping may be free. And on a 1050, that is pretty stout.

Good Luck

Yeah, you are right... I have to admit, the forum has been great! I have gotten a lot of nice deals out the the classified and 90% of the folks I have met on here are really cool.

Ill look into calling BE and ordering one soon!

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So what caliber are you starting with and how many quick change heads are you going to order?

So I think I am going to start off by getting the machine set up in 223... I am going to get 3 QC's and set those up in 9mm, 38 wadcutter (I shoot from a S&W52-2) most so I need to have that set up, and 45acp. I will then order an additional QC for 10mm but, since I shoot it least, I can always get that down the road.

I have also decided to get another toolhead and trimmer and can run 223 brass through the machine in large quantity... I get around 15-30,000 223 empties every six months so I can recoup a lot of my investment by selling tumbled, deprimed, sized and swaged cases on a few forums I belong to.

So, thats the game plan as of today... Ill probably make my order tomorrow!

Tom, I believe you are incorrect about the priming system. It's an additional $105.95 to convert priming systems, otherwise Dillon ripped me off, and I don't think that they would do that.

Gimpy, you are correct.... only one priming system comes with the machine... This was confirmed by B.E and Dillon.

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I have a 1050 with multiple tool heads. The change out time is not a big deal to me.

Lately I have been just changing out a few of the dies and the shell plate for some calibers.

All in all, I would rather have a 1050. I have loaded on a 650 before but the 1050 works for me. I load; 9mm, 40S&W, 45ACP, 38SC and .223

The 223 really needs two tools heads IMHO.

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I personally only run 2 heads; one for .223, one for pistol. I set up the dies and use Hornady rings to allow quick replacement without adjustment.

Not to hijack too badly but can you elaborate on how you are able to leave the dies set and remove them without having to readjust them. Thanks.

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Sure thing. The Hornady rings lock on to the dies. I use one head for .223 processing and reloading. I get the dies set up to where they need to be, then lock the rings. When I switch uses for the head, I remove the dies (rings still locked), and insert the other dies which I have previously set. I can honestly change from processing brass to reloading it in a matter of minutes.

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i have 650 and has been very happy for 4 years loading on it. i was loading hundreds of 45, 40, 9mm, 223 plus load develoment here and there and 650 has been perfect. Lately i'm more shooting 3 gun and shooting boatloads of 9mm and .223. When I though of swaging 4K rounds of .223 that i have, I know that the right time for 1050 for me has arrived. So i have a Super 1050 now loading match grade .223 and i have 1 quick change for 9mm. 9mm now has to be swaged also because more and more brass are having crimpped primer pocket. My 1050 has not been spilling powder like in my 650 so my loads are more consistent in 1050. Also the sitting of my primer are deep solid. Before in 650 when i'm little bit tired then my pushing to seat primer sometimes are not enough now even i load thousands in 1 sitting there's no issue with primer seating.

I will not caliber change my super 1050 though to different sized primer. it takes time to align the primer and swaging mechanism. Super 1050 has a notorious primer crashing problem if these swaging and priming mechanism are not set perfectly. I'll not subject myself to that headache.

If i still load 45acp, i will have the 1050 to load my small primer loads and have say a 650 to load large primer ammos. If i need to load thousands and thousands of 45acp or 308 as well then i'll get another 1050 with large primer set.

How i load match grade .223 in 1050? I case size, deprime and swage on first pass (all 4K of 'em), then i run them to giraud trimmer, debur, chamfer then case gauge. I then load them back to 1050 to case size again, swage again, seat primer, load powder, powder check, seat bullet and crimp.

I eliminated the manual swaging when i have xl650 which takes a lot of time. I sold my 650 to help finance my 1050.

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I will not caliber change my super 1050 though to different sized primer. it takes time to align the primer and swaging mechanism. Super 1050 has a notorious primer crashing problem if these swaging and priming mechanism are not set perfectly. I'll not subject myself to that headache.

If i still load 45acp, i will have the 1050 to load my small primer loads and have say a 650 to load large primer ammos. If i need to load thousands and thousands of 45acp or 308 as well then i'll get another 1050 with large primer set.

I used to say the same thing. Spent an hour on the phone with Dillon one day because I wanted to load 308 on my 1050 but I was scared to death that I would have to go thru that massive headache of setting up the primer system again. The guy convinced me (he didn't really convince me, more like shamed me into it) and I swapped it out to large primer to do 308. Well, lo and behold, the Dillon guy was right! (Called him back and told him too). The primer system does NOT have to be readjusted, just swap parts and reassemble and load ammo!

Swapping the DE-swager size is easy too. After installing the new one, just take it up to where the bottom lip is just a hair past the top of the lower part of the shell holder, put a case in and check that it overcams about 1 inch of handle travel, adjust as necessary. Off you go, you are done, load some ammo!

trust me, it is worth it, especially since I was killing myself processing 308 on my 650. Now all the 650 does is pistol ammo...

So if you want to spend the money on heads for all the different calibers you load, a single 1050 is all that is needed. Its actually cheaper in the long run that having multiple loaders. But some think it is cool to have more... :)

jj

Edited by RiggerJJ
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