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Can I build a dependable 3gun AR 10 for $1500 less optics?


dmshozer1

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Buy a A2 stock lower add a JP or Geissele trigger. Get a flat top upper add a Carbon Arms or Nordic barrel. Finish with a Troy or Clark forearm, then pick the break you like. You can easily stay under $1500. Two most important items on an AR, barrel and trigger.

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Go with a DPMS lower as your mag options are better than with a rock river. Throw in a good trigger, barrel, bolt and comp. To save money go with a plan freefloat tube over the expensive tubes. For a stock, a simple A2 stock over a Magpul 250 buck stock.

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Spend 1500 on the good stuff then use your credit card for the rest. Buy/build once and cry once. I just built a badass ar10. Geiselle, jp, mega arms, sjc, etc. Ask me how much it cost. I couldn't tell you. I never added it up. I can tell you that it will produce one ragged hole at 275 with hand loads.

That being said, the dpms 3g1 - 308 looks great if they would ever show up at my distributors.

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I would say no. There is a reason most good AR10 style guns start at $2500. Ar10's are not generally as reliable as AR15's from the start. I had two different Armalite AR10's. (Carbine and a 10T) both were tempermental and were never fully trustworthy. I would save up for a JP in .308 or a Larue Pretatober.

pat

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Quite alright I just enjoy what the mis spelled words turn into sometimes. Just out of curiosity what seems to make the .308 guns less reliable? Is it the gas system or is it due to the extra weight of internals on them.

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You can absolutltly get/build a good ar-10 for under $1500. First stay away from the Armalite cut because DPMS parts are cheaper and better... I would recomend getting receivers from Tactical Machining and a barrel from Fulton Armory (they are Criterion barrels which are effectively Kreiger) and most the rest of the parts from DPMS except the trigger which I would get the RRA national match two stage, it's a good trigger and half the money of anybody elses good triggers. DEFINATELY spend the money and get an adjustable gas block (NOT aluminum) because this will alleviate most of the ar-10 reliability concerns people have. Good luck!

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Quite alright I just enjoy what the mis spelled words turn into sometimes. Just out of curiosity what seems to make the .308 guns less reliable? Is it the gas system or is it due to the extra weight of internals on them.

The AR15 has had over 50 years of tweaking in the armed forces. While the AR10 came first it was soon abandoned and only picked up again at a later date so it has not been de bugged. Although its better now than it was 10 years ago. They tend to be over gassed and shoot themselves to death. As for DPMS guns seen plenty with issues. If your going to get one either build it or buy a JP or Larue.

Pat

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oh yeah... just plan on buying new p-mags every 400-500 rounds for matches and use the old ones for practice or paperweights or something. don't wast you time with anything else.

That's the first time I've heard this. What seems to be the problem, whats failing? Just wondering.

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With the 308 (not the 223) the recoil causes the bullet to dimple the front of the mag (espetially if you use hollow points) and after about 400-500 rounds it creates enough drag to start giving nose-down issues. They are still the best mags by far but this is the one draw-back to them. There is a very small rumor (maybe I am starting it now?) that Magpul is working on this but for now it is best to plan to have new mags for big matches.

on a different note... If you buy a stock DPMS change the gas block out for an adjustable and polish the chamber and it will shoot VERY well and be as reliable as any other 308. Like any less expensive rifle it just takes a little more patience to break it in and tweak it.

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Buy a A2 stock lower add a JP or Geissele trigger. Get a flat top upper add a Carbon Arms or Nordic barrel. Finish with a Troy or Clark forearm, then pick the break you like. You can easily stay under $1500. Two most important items on an AR, barrel and trigger.

Just to clarify a little; we at Carbon Arms do have a very nice carbon fiber hand guard and barrel nut for AR-10s, but we do not have an AR-10 barrel. Nordic doesn't have an AR-10 barrel either. I would definitely second the Fulton Armory suggestion.

Edited by Casman
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Plastic feed lips never hold up as well as metal and 308 is tougher on everthing than 223.

You can get the build done, but you will need to shop like my depression era grandmother. Also, do your research. The reason AR10 is so though is because there isn't a common milspec and as alaska pointed out, no 50yrs of tweeking. You have to find out what parts work well together... for sure. DPMS will have the best budfet parts and thier parts quality is better than thier cost would lead uou to believe. I didn't want to deal with the unknowns, so I saved ip for a JP. For your budget, I'd start with a DPMS barrel, BCG and upper/lower receiver set. JP gas block, miculek comp (with some added tuning by you), JP trigger set and the rest is cheap personal prefrerence. That way you will have manufacturer matched and most likely to work together parts. You could also build a lower for cheap and purchase the DPMS based upper from JP. The JP built upper on DPMS receiver is an economical way to get the most critical features in a quality build and keep the cost out of the stratosphere.

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You can absolutltly get/build a good ar-10 for under $1500. First stay away from the Armalite cut because DPMS parts are cheaper and better... I would recomend getting receivers from Tactical Machining and a barrel from Fulton Armory (they are Criterion barrels which are effectively Kreiger) and most the rest of the parts from DPMS except the trigger which I would get the RRA national match two stage, it's a good trigger and half the money of anybody elses good triggers. DEFINATELY spend the money and get an adjustable gas block (NOT aluminum) because this will alleviate most of the ar-10 reliability concerns people have. Good luck!

I've had real good luck with my Fulton Barrel. .5" groups at 100 yds with Federal GMM.

I started out with a DPMS AP4 I picked up for $600 - got real lucky there. Stripped it down and dumped everything but the upper, lower, charging handle, bolt & carrier. Added a stock, JP fire control, JP 15" handguard & adjustable gas block, Fulton barrel and SJC Titan comp. Sent the carrier off to Benny & he lightened it. After selling all the spare parts and the work on the carrier, I ended up with about $1000 in the gun before optics.

Here is a pic before I added the 15" handguard.

DSC_02491.JPG

Edited by prreed10
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on a different note... If you buy a stock DPMS change the gas block out for an adjustable and polish the chamber and it will shoot VERY well and be as reliable as any other 308. Like any less expensive rifle it just takes a little more patience to break it in and tweak it.

At the He Man this year, there were several DPMS .308's on my squad. All ran well, and with optics on them, the owners smacked the plates much faster than the two of us with iron sighted M1a's! (there is something about a wood stocked battle rifle though :goof: )

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I have a RRA and a DPMS. I like both but for availability of parts I would recommend the DPMS. If I were you I would look at a used DPMS. The 308s don't get shot much and someone probably just managed to break it in for you. Then change what you don't like as time goes by. As for .308 ARs reliability. I have found that they are as reliable as .223s once you learn how to run them.

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