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Help me design the PERFECT reloading bench!


zsavage81

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E397660B-3BCA-43CF-B748-3C5936E4CBE2-33574-00002F79EC004A48.jpg

I've very excited to have just joined the Big Blue Club, now I need to design a reloading bench. I'm planning to put my bench in my office and have about 14ft between my desk and door that is empty. That said I'm only looking to make a bench around 10ft long at the most, as I'll probably take this thing to my house (someday when I can afford to build a new house out in the country and have a room dedicated to guns). Here's my back story, I own a custom cabinet company and we also do a lot of metal work so I have cnc routers, plasma tables, welders, edge-bander, saws, sanders, and a spray booth full of finishing equipment at my disposal. Basically, the options here are endless and I can do just about anything you could dream of in wood, metal, or plastic.

So here's what I'm looking for....Recommendations of what you'd like to have on your bench if you were able to do ANYTHING you wanted, basically describe your DREAM BENCH. I've never loaded before so even though I've seen buddies do it, watched all kinds of youtube vids, and even got Enos's video on competition reloading, I don't have the hours behind the press sitting there thinking about how I could make the set-up better/more efficient. At first I thought hey, I'll just do something temporary and after I've been loading for a while I'll know what I need to do and build something else. The more I think about it the more I'm thinking the closer I get to PERFECT on my first go around the better the second try will be. I've also been searching the internet high and low looking at pictures of other peoples benches and have a list of ideas I'd like to incorporate.

Currently I've purchased everything to load 9mm and .223 but will most likely also load .40 at some point.

Things I know I want/I know the bench needs to do:

1- I want to be able to load sitting down. I've got a tall draftsmen's office chair and with the strong mount I think a 32" finished counter-top height is just about perfect. Who else sits down and how tall is your bench?

2- I want space to be able to work on and clean my guns

3- On one end of the bench I am planning to build in a bench top vice. something like this:

37180-01-500.jpg

The idea is that I can use it assemble ar's, put sites on pistols, or in a reloading capacity I'm planning to mount things like my super swage600 and case trimmer to blocks that I can clamp up in the vice when in use and put away when I don't need them.

4- I want to do the tube to some sort of container that catches spent primers since just in setting my machine up I've already had a few end up in the floor. Any trick ways people have for doing that as it relates to the way the bench is built?

5- Storage for powder, primers, bullets, die's, armorer tools, cleaning supplies ect. I'm thinking I'll do some drawers with the craftsman toolbox inserts to organize my tools. Any other special considerations I should make for storing the rest of it?

6- I currently tumble at home and wouldn't really want that going in my office all day but have had a few thoughts about sound proofing a cabinet and attempting to do it that way. It's also pretty easy to leave it on a timer at the house and return home to clean brass then just bag it up and take it with me to work the next day. I guess I could also run it at night at the office when I'm gone and return the next morning to clean brass? How do yall do it and how would you LIKE to do it if you had options? I'm kicking around the idea of using a mixer lift for the tumbler to sit on with some sort of pull-out underneath for the separator.

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7- I'm thinking I'll make a butcher block top that's about 2" thick, can anyone think of something that might be better than that or is butcher ideal? Corian, Metal, Plastic, Acrylic ect?

That's all I can think of for now but will continue to update as I have more/new ideas.

Any Pictures or sketches of suggestions/ideas are greatly appreciated!!!

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2" butcher seems to be the way to go. I have two tables one from Costco and one from Sams - both 2" butcher block style with metal legs. Keys are to have it level and unable to move. Movement in the table results in "ghost" problems with the machine. I don't think Corian or Metal would be a good material for two reasons - (1) flex (not so much with Corian but for sure with metal) and (2) dings, dents and scrapes will likely be higher with less impact resistant materials. Plastic would be an interesting material if you could get some stiff enough. Acrylic may have some of the same problems as Corian I would think.

Def keep us up to date on progress! I'm really interested in what you come up with!

Chris

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You've obviously got too much money laying around and should pay someone else to load your ammo or "even better" buy it from Atlanta Arms and Ammo....... :sight:

Just kidding....awesome for you Amigo :cheers:

Actually it's the opposite problem, since my 5 month old just started day school at like $800 a month and ammo isn't getting any cheaper I'm broke! So I had to get into reloading to keep being able to afford to shoot (or that's what I told the wife). Looks like I'll break even in around 6-7 months (I'm also a partner in a gun shop with a couple 3/75 Ranger buddies and was able to buy the 650 and all the componets at wholesale so that helps a lot too).

I have a shop full of wood, I have mixer lifts and pull-outs that are strached up and didn't make the cut to use for customers, so I'm not paying for any of that, and I always have some inbetween time on projects where I have a guy who needs something to do so this bench shouldn't really cost me anything that isn't sunk already.

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I actually like to reload from a stool, instead of standing or sitting. Sort of half way in between. I feel a little more mobile and I have better leverage on the press but I don't have fatigue from standing.

Yea the chair I plan to use is way taller than a normal office chair so It's going to be stool height with office chair comfort. I do like the increased mobility of being up a little higher, way easier to stand up with minimal effort and a lot quicker.

Lots of information in this Thread Here for building a reloading bench if you havent seen it already.Be warned its 49 pages long with some nice setups :)Cheers ....

Oh yes, I've been through that one front to back about 4 times now looking hard at specific elements! I think there are a lot of people in there trying to take what they have and make it work or do it on the cheap using whatever they can find; as opposed to stepping back and saying I'm going to design this from the ground up with the sole purpose of making the best bench humanly possible and letting function drive form! (Note there are a few in there that appear to have taken this approach so it's not all of them that I'm speaking about, there are a few awesome setups!).

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lots of small drawers. They should be small due to the fact that most of the components that we deal with are relatively heavy. Lead, Dies, etc.

You will be fine with the 32-24" range. This would allow you to sit on a tall stool or stand. Make at least one section with doors for the larger items. I don't know about putting the tumbler in the cabinet where the reloading takes place. I know that it could screw with you when you are measuring powder charges (on a digital scale anyway). I do like the idea of having it in a soundproof cabinet though.

I bought the butcher block bench from sam's and will eventually build a cabinet to go under it. Tops are really dependent upon your personal preference. I build two benched for a buddy and we just used two sheets of MDF and used formica for the top surface. Plenty strong enough and very solid.

My ideal bench would incorporate some drawers in a shallow section on the back of the bench. You really only ever use the front 12" or so for reloading. I would like to have my tools that close at hand. Drawers on top for tools, drawers under the bottom for components.

Good luck, I'm looking forward to your finished post for a little inspiration.

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Anyone do the track system with "T" bolts to mount your press, trimmer, swage, ect? I'm liking that concept and am pretty sure I'll incorporate some into my design. Since I know I don't know shit about reloading I'm liking the ability to move things around easily. I am still going to put a vice on it for working on guns and am not planning on it running the entire length of the bench.

something like this: 3206435951_df164eb997_o.jpg

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I reload multiple calibers. I store all the boxes underneath a tool chest.

I would recommend a drawer for:

each caliber conversion

for small parts per pistol type (Tupperware, 1911, AR ...)

tools, i have lots of little tools i use in working on my guns

a handy dandy way to secure the upper of an AR or O/U barrels for cleaning

a handy dandy way to secure the lowers

drawer for cleaning supplies by gun type--currently i just put everything on one shelf

a electrical strip

a place to hook up magnifying glass/light.

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A few years back I built my own re-loading bench after using a roll around tool cabinet (which wasn't a very stable platform). This bench is 26" deep, 52" wide and 32" high. The height is good for standing or sitting on a stool. I also wanted a place to store all the tool heads instead to having them sit on top of the bench. To give you some ideas, here are some pics.

reloadingbench3a.jpg

reloadingbench55.jpg

reloadingbench9a.jpg

Poor mans bullet feeder for 9mm

poormanbulletfeeder2.jpg

and for doing those large calibers !!!!

press11n.jpg

Hope this helps

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have found the Sears work benches to be the best. If you purchase one of the better ones with the thick bench top, you will be able to mount 2 Dillon 650 presses,a 550 press and a large bench vise on the 60" bench. The one I purchases a few years ago was around $300 with drawers and shelves included. It is rock solid. I store components on the back of the bench behind the presses.

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First off, congrats on your cabinet making. That's a great skill and a tough way to make a living.

I have built a couple benches over the years. Started off sitting and found out I like standing much better because it is less tiring and I can see inside the cases better. That bench was 4 feet long, and a little too short for me.

My current bench is 6 feet long, 24 inches deep, and 42 inches high. It has a vise mounted on one end and I bolt different loaders to it as needed. I don't have drawers, but will on the next upgrade. Drawers for calipers and small tools, seperate drawers for tool heads and caliber conversions. Cabinet for powders and cabinet for projectiles. I keep the scale on the bench top all the time so it is easy to find and use; you could put it in a drawer or cabinet above the bench.

I will add that it's impractical for me to permanent mount 4 MEC shotgun loaders, a dillon 550 and Dillon SDB on a bench. If I had the space, I probably still wouldn't do it. Just too easy to swap them out.

Bench top material is important. I have two pieces of 3/4 plywood laminated together. That wasn't hard enough. I added some Masonite, but still don't love that. Not sure there is a perfect solution, ESP when loading shots bells and the inevitable shot spill.

Color matters too. Lighter colors are easier for me to deal with. And don't forget kid proof. Kids or grand kids will want to "help", especially if you aren't in the room. Latches on doors and drawers are inconvenient, but a good idea.

Last point is on lighting. Plann for way more than you think you need. Flooding the work area with light makes all the difference. If you put cabinets above the bench under lighting would be great.

-John

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If you have access to a vacuum press, I would take a solid core door blank, and edge it with apitong about 2" at any side facing the outside edge. Then, take 16ga hot rolled steel, and vacuum press it to both sides of the door with urethane glue. Trim to fit and you now have a serious bench you can bolt through. You can finish it by sand blasting, followed by wet sanding with wd-40, and 400 grit Indasa Rhinodry paper. Then you can use naptha or acetone to strip the steel, and spray with gun blue in a fine mister spray bottle careful to not get the apitong edge, Finally, I would oil it with whatever you want. If you did it with stainless sheets, you would have to cut them right to size, as trimming them is a PITA to say the least. But if you live in a dry climate, you could go with hot rolled, but if it is even a bit humid, you would need the stainless. This would give you a surface you could abuse, and yet clean easily. I actually have my door blank, and sheets of steel waiting for next spring. I am going to make this sucker rigid and pretty too.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was at Sears the other day picking up a socket for my 1050. They had both a 6 foot and 8 foot 1 3/4 inch thick work bench with a wrap around steel base on sale. The 6 foot bench rated at 5000 lbs was $288.00 including the base. The height was perfect. The roller storage cabinets they make with drawers, shelves and open fit right under the work bench.

I am considering tearing mine out(kitchen cabinet bases with formica tops) and using two of the 8 foot models with a couple of the storage cabinets for powder, bullets and gun parts. Take a look at those before you make a decision.

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I used a T-track system for my press mount. It is not elaborate but has worked well for me so far, allowing me to slide the press out of the way for full bench use. I bought material for a second aluminum mount plate and intend mounting a vice at some point or some other yet to be decided on tool.

FinishedBench005.jpg

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