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M1A sights for HM


rlc9194

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Picked up used M1a a while back, Thought I would give it a try at the local 3gun. Only problem I had was the close in targets, with the NM sights. Wish I had a set up like the AR With 2 different size peeps. Can anyone help with some information

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Picked up used M1a a while back, Thought I would give it a try at the local 3gun. Only problem I had was the close in targets, with the NM sights. Wish I had a set up like the AR With 2 different size peeps. Can anyone help with some information

You are probably not going to find a solution that gives you 2 aperatures unless you get a Troy Industries rail system that replaces the rear sight and handguard. Then you will be able to mount a stand alone set of sights on the rail. The drawback is that you will be losing sight radius and any chance of getting a consistent cheek weld without a giant add-on cheekpiece.

I ran the M1A for several years and found the best solution to be a NM front sight and a standard rear aperature. No hood and full diameter. Plenty of daylight to find the front sight when you are moving around and precise enough because of the NM front blade.

Kuan

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Delta-P sightbase/muzzle adapter and Alley Supply globe sight with Lee Shaver inserts (the inserts the sight comes with suck), up close I ignore the insert and use the sight housing as a "donut", further out I focus on the sight insert reticle. On the rear I used the Springfield hooded NM sight leaf, but drilled it out a fair bit.(the Delta-P piece gives you more options for muzzle devices as well)001-10.jpg

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Yeah I ran an M1A in HM division for much of this season. I found the same problem. Like Kuan, I also found a standard NM front blade to be the best compromise between precise and fast. Any smaller and it takes too long to find the front sight. I personally found the standard rear aperture annoying. Even with serrations, the large flat surface reflected too much light making the aperture vague. I ended up going with a Krieger hooded rear, drilled out to .070". This worked well and gave me the deep black contrast I needed on the rear to quickly align. It wasn't an easy install though as the new rear sight had to be stoned to fit and the M1A rear sight is a bit of a chinese puzzle box, which is very easy to assemble incorrectly. Took me a couple of hours to get the sight properly fit and several attempts to get everything assembled properly. For very close targets, learn to look over the sights and hit. It's easier than it sounds and on targets inside of 15yd, you can run a comp'd M1a extremely fast. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

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Yeah I ran an M1A in HM division for much of this season. I found the same problem. Like Kuan, I also found a standard NM front blade to be the best compromise between precise and fast. Any smaller and it takes too long to find the front sight. I personally found the standard rear aperture annoying. Even with serrations, the large flat surface reflected too much light making the aperture vague. I ended up going with a Krieger hooded rear, drilled out to .070". This worked well and gave me the deep black contrast I needed on the rear to quickly align. It wasn't an easy install though as the new rear sight had to be stoned to fit and the M1A rear sight is a bit of a chinese puzzle box, which is very easy to assemble incorrectly. Took me a couple of hours to get the sight properly fit and several attempts to get everything assembled properly. For very close targets, learn to look over the sights and hit. It's easier than it sounds and on targets inside of 15yd, you can run a comp'd M1a extremely fast. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Line up the top of the rear peep on the bottom of the front sight housing, keeping the front post centered on your aiming point. A good way to check this is to bench the rifle (or put it in a vise) then move your eye from lining up the sights as i mentioned, then drop your eye to the normal sight alignment. you will find the front post is in the center of the aiming point if done correctly. Play with it a little, it really works.

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In the early 70's we ran duel apertures on our M14s. Didnt know if somthing on that order was still available. I'll give the standard peep a try as well as looking over the top for the close up stuff. Never thought about running a comp, like the Titan thats what I run on my AR. I'm sure if I get a little more range time I'll find a combination that will work for me. The 223s have spoiled me a little on the cost of ammo. All i need to do is figure how to "Feed the Beast"

Thanks Guys. Be safe

Randy

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Have you taken the Heavy Metal gear out for a match this season?

Two weeks, Michael! I'm going to shoot Heavy Irons at Ozark. The last match I shot in HM was '11 FNH. I'm looking forward to tearing up some targets.

Then back to TO for FNH and HM for Blue Ridge. It's going to be a great fall.

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Let's see if I can start a ruckus..........

Everyone that was trained on an M14 in basic, hold up your hand.

Everyone that understood why they made you get that checkbone welded to the back of your THUMB, hold up your hand.

I am long of face, long of neck, long of arm. The position was almost natural. After 40+ years, it IS natural.

When you naturally bang that checkbone up against your thumb, the rear appature is always centered on your eye, and anywhere you point the rifle, the front sight is usually right on the target. It's a great combat sighting system.

Back to the present.

Most shooters don't have that check to thumb setup. Which means from one shooter to the next to the next (to infinity), everyone has a different distance from their eye to the rear appature. In effect, everyone is using a different sized peep because of the different distances. The further your eye is from the peep, the smaller it is in relation to the front post and the target.

Advise from 1 individual to the next is sorta meaningless, unless everyone has their eye the same distance from the rear appature.

enjoy!

and my personal experience:

my eye is about 2" from the rear appature. the issue peep was huge! plus the outside radius of the appature blocked out the last 2 targets plus the next 2 targets. I put up with that for about a year, and then ground down the outside radius to just under 3/16". Now the sight picture looks like someone took a pencil and drew a circle in the air, and I can see all the targets all the time. Then I drilled the peep out, threaded it, put a soft non graded machine screw in, filed it flat on both ends (flush with sight) and drilled my own peep bigger than NM, but smaller than issue. blued it. (all hand tools on the front porch) really happy with the results for about 6 years.

enter 1x optical sights in limited iron sights division:

I'm pulling the sights off the rifle, putting NM sights on, and selling the rifle.

Bush rifle (18"), Ultimak handguard, Aimpoint

c-ya at the matches

IMHO

Edited by springy
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Let's see if I can start a ruckus..........

Everyone that was trained on an M14 in basic, hold up your hand.

Everyone that understood why they made you get that checkbone welded to the back of your THUMB, hold up your hand.

I am long of face, long of neck, long of arm. The position was almost natural. After 40+ years, it IS natural.

When you naturally bang that checkbone up against your thumb, the rear appature is always centered on your eye, and anywhere you point the rifle, the front sight is usually right on the target. It's a great combat sighting system.

Back to the present.

Most shooters don't have that check to thumb setup. Which means from one shooter to the next to the next (to infinity), everyone has a different distance from their eye to the rear appature. In effect, everyone is using a different sized peep because of the different distances. The further your eye is from the peep, the smaller it is in relation to the front post and the target.

Advise from 1 individual to the next is sorta meaningless, unless everyone has their eye the same distance from the rear appature.

enjoy!

and my personal experience:

my eye is about 2" from the rear appature. the issue peep was huge! plus the outside radius of the appature blocked out the last 2 targets plus the next 2 targets. I put up with that for about a year, and then ground down the outside radius to just under 3/16". Now the sight picture looks like someone took a pencil and drew a circle in the air, and I can see all the targets all the time. Then I drilled the peep out, threaded it, put a soft non graded machine screw in, filed it flat on both ends (flush with sight) and drilled my own peep bigger than NM, but smaller than issue. blued it. (all hand tools on the front porch) really happy with the results for about 6 years.

enter 1x optical sights in limited iron sights division:

I'm pulling the sights off the rifle, putting NM sights on, and selling the rifle.

Bush rifle (18"), Ultimak handguard, Aimpoint

c-ya at the matches

IMHO

Trained on the M14??

I thought that you trained with a '03 Springfield :roflol:

I noticed that you didn't mention your trick front sight.

I hope you get better soon, it ain't the same shooting without ya'll.

Hurley

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Think what I need to do is save the 20 bucks I was gonna spend on the standard size rear. That way I will have a little extra cash to buy a new M1a scout to trick out ( dont tell the wife I be in deep dodo again)

Thanks again for the ideas guys

Edited by rlc9194
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I thought that you trained with a '03 Springfield

I noticed that you didn't mention your trick front sight.

I hope you get better soon, it ain't the same shooting without ya'll.

Hurley

I'm thinking there aren't too many shooters (m1a or others) that want to drill a .040 hole lengthwise thru a NM m14 sight that is only .052 thick, and harderna brick bat.

1903 Springfield! I'm sure that will make Michael's day!

That's a good one, Hurley!

no it ain't!

I thought he was trained on a flintlock.

Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk 2

Actually, I had sense enough to not mess with a flintlock, my first was a cap and ball 44.

Regardless what he trained with. It's tough to argue with a guy who probably saw the original episode of the Honeymooners on a round screen television.

it was a philco, brown and tan

Many thanks to you guys for the thoughts. It's looking like we're gonna make it to WestbyGodVirginia in a few weeks. You may see me leaning up against a tree every once in a while, but you'll also see brass flying!

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p401333008-4.jpg

No one rifle has won more Major matches than this one in HM Iron division.

It has won several Limited titles too! (against AR's in 5.56)

Rear sight is drilled out to 0.070"

Front is NM standard 0.062"

Brake is a drilled out Miculek 223 unit fitted to a cut and threaded standard flash hider (the Delta P unit is THE WAY to go now)

The cheek piece eliminated the "thumb rest check weld" that High Power shooter had to adopt as rules would not allow for check pieces in service rifle matches.

The recoil pad not only reduces recoil fatigue, but it keeps the butt "stuck" to your shoulder improving consistency.

Trigger is stock with the hammer spring shortened to 2.00"

Safety is smoothed to ease on and off.

That's my formula for a winning HMI rifle.

Patrick

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p401333008-4.jpg

No one rifle has won more Major matches than this one in HM Iron division.

It has won several Limited titles too! (against AR's in 5.56)

Rear sight is drilled out to 0.070"

Front is NM standard 0.062"

Brake is a drilled out Miculek 223 unit fitted to a cut and threaded standard flash hider (the Delta P unit is THE WAY to go now)

The cheek piece eliminated the "thumb rest check weld" that High Power shooter had to adopt as rules would not allow for check pieces in service rifle matches.

The recoil pad not only reduces recoil fatigue, but it keeps the butt "stuck" to your shoulder improving consistency.

Trigger is stock with the hammer spring shortened to 2.00"

Safety is smoothed to ease on and off.

That's my formula for a winning HMI rifle.

Patrick

Correction, Pat.

This is the rifle used by the WINNER of more major matches in HM Iron division. :cheers:

Edited by Dan Sierpina
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