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What do you use for brass polish?


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I don't do anything as elaborate as people describe with steel media. I think I have 5 pounds (but it was whatever was recommended), fill the tumbler with 9mm or 45 brass and big heafty squirt of dawn, a good dash of lemishine, water almost to the top and then run it for about 3-4 hours. You should still have visable suds when you open it. I also found that if you run it more than 4 hours, the crud somehow gets redeposited on the cases. I just dry in the sun on a couple of black cookie sheets. They come out like new every time

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I was lucky enough to be at a local car dealer when they threw-out a few cases of brand name (auto manufacturer's) paint sealer! The charge $ for paint sealing a new car is astronomical, and they don't even use the whole 4 ounce bottle per car. The paint sealer I brought home makes very pretty brass, so if you can unload some from your neighbor car dealership, do it it's worth a try. By the way it smells and feels like Dillon's stuff... just ain't purple :(

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  • 1 month later...

Turpentine comes from pine trees.

Mineral spirits is a light petroleum product sometimes used in dry cleaning but mostly for paint thinner for oil based paints. At The Home Depot stores or Wal Mart stores just look for paint thinner. And for a couple bucks more per gallon you can buy odorless paint thinner/(mineral spirits). It's good for cleaning greasy engine parts too.

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First off, I'm fairly new here myself, but I will post my experiences and you can take them with a grain of salt, or heed my warning.

Nu-Finish car wax is NOT good for your brass. I know some guys who swear by it, but they have never studied the long term affects on brass like I have.

Several years ago I did a 6 month study on the use of various brass media additives, and found Nu Finish to be one of the worst. Long term, it caused dirt and grime to adhere to cases, melted a few styrofoam storage trays, left deposits in sizing dies, and even caused chamber dimension changes after 2500 rounds in a test barrel.

To elaborate a little.

1) Almost all of the treated cases (200 of 250) took on an orange 'leopard spot' appearance after only 4 months in storage.

2) Dust, dirt, and grime adhered more readily to fired cases than to non-treated cases.

3) Three of five 223 / 5.56 brass styrofoam storage inserts showed signs of 'petroleum' style degradation and damage after only 3 months.

4) The inside of the sizing die used exclusively for the sizing of the treated brass showed signs of waxy deposits throughout.

5) A standard ER Shaw 5.56 barrel showed signs of dimension changes after being used to fire 5 - 500 round test firings with cleaning in between. Evidently, CLP does not break down Carnauba Wax and some of the other additives that are in Nu Finish.

Furthermore, a car wax is designed to create a thin barrier over a surface to protect the surface from the elements. It is not heat resistant! Have you ever picked up a hot piece of brass after firing? Of course you have. :) The melting point of carnauba wax is around 160 degrees Fahrenheit, depending on the grade. Since The Law of Conservation of Mass teaches us that "Matter is neither created nor destroyed" it has to go somewhere! The wax isn't gasified, so it remains a solid.

So, after all of these tests using 4 other brands or styles of 'media polish' I settled on Flitz Media Additive. It performs the best out of the 5 I tested.

As a note ...

Don't use Brasso or Metal Flitz on your brass. Just a warning. :D Brasso weakens brass and can cause them to rupture due to the decreased elasticity caused by the leaching of elements from the brass.

Edited by roostershooter
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Good stuff and makes sense. Thanks.

Frankly, I use Lyman's treated corn cob media way too long and the brass always comes out shiny. But I recently stated adding Flitz Media Additive and it definitely kicked up the shine a few notches. Great stuff.

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I'm in Australia and I don't ever remember seeing "White Spirits" on the hardware shelves for paint thinning. We use "Turps" which is mineral turpentine and has a very high odour to it. I can't imagine putting that in my tumbler <confused>?

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I'm in Australia and I don't ever remember seeing "White Spirits" on the hardware shelves for paint thinning. We use "Turps" which is mineral turpentine and has a very high odour to it. I can't imagine putting that in my tumbler <confused>?

Mineral spirits is what you and I call methylated spirits. Works great to thin a bit of car polish. I use it with rice as the media. Brass looks like new.

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steel media and a rotary tumbler is so much better than any media. Brass is cleaner and shinerier than new

I did that for a while, but found it was making the brass shed A LOT of brass "flecks" (like fine glitter) that was sticking to my hands and everywhere else. That can't be good if you plan on using the same brass for any length of time. I've since quit using it, as it was a giant pain to use IMO. Seems the brass tarnished really quick too (a few days)...never did try throwing it in corn cob afterwards with some polish to see if that would keep it from tarnishing so quick.

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I'm in Australia and I don't ever remember seeing "White Spirits" on the hardware shelves for paint thinning. We use "Turps" which is mineral turpentine and has a very high odour to it. I can't imagine putting that in my tumbler <confused>?

Mineral spirits is what you and I call methylated spirits. Works great to thin a bit of car polish. I use it with rice as the media. Brass looks like new.

I'm not sure about that. Methylated spirits or "metho" is derived from ethanol (denatured alcohol) and can't be used a paint thinner, where as Mineral Turpentine

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I'm in Australia and I don't ever remember seeing "White Spirits" on the hardware shelves for paint thinning. We use "Turps" which is mineral turpentine and has a very high odour to it. I can't imagine putting that in my tumbler <confused>?

Mineral spirits is what you and I call methylated spirits. Works great to thin a bit of car polish. I use it with rice as the media. Brass looks like new.

I'm not sure about that. Methylated spirits or "metho" is derived from ethanol (denatured alcohol) and can't be used a paint thinner, where as Mineral Turpentine is petroleum based.

Edited by Blueheeler
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OVW,

With Lemishine, more is not better. Don' t use more than 1/4 teaspoon.

Also, I have noticed that nickel covered brass may tend to "grey" out and not come out shiny. Did this to all of my .357 Winchester brass. I'm not sure why this happens but if I tumble them a second time they come out shiny again.

My mix is per the original instructions: 1 tablespoon Dawn dishwashing detergent, 1/4 teaspoon Lemishine, fill tumbler to 1 inch below the rim.

Wanting to try Flitz liquid version but haven't found any local yet.

Hi bradhe -

Don't want to make the thread drift too far off the OP's question. I started using SS media in a tumbler about a year ago and got spectacular results initially. Using 5 lbs. pins, 1/2 gallon water, tablespoon Dawn dish soap, and varying amounts of crystal LemiShine (1/8 to 1/2 teaspoon). I had 45 ACP range pick up brass quite tarnished come out looking near new. Now tumbling 38 Special - they come out clean - but shiny? - not really.

What are you mixing with your SS media? I am trying to replicate my first batches of brass with not much luck.

Any tips appreciated.

OVW

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constable79 -

I have read on other forums that more Lemishine is not better - so I varied the amounts to experiment. I have noticed a couple of things. When I open my tumbler after tumbling for four hours or so and empty the water, the brass in the container looks very shiny. After rinsing and separating from the pins, the brass shine quickly dulls up. I figure it might be the water coming out of the garden hose. I've read some posts where guys use distilled water for rinsing - way over the top for me. For S&Gs, I tumbled some dull brass afterward in corn cob (with a little Flitz) - came out much more shiny. A little more work, especially when the media gets stuck in the flash holes. I have also noticed that the larger (45 ACP) cases come out of the SS media/water shinier than the .38s. I figured this might be due to the pins being able to "bounce around" more readily in a larger case. (??)

Just read Steve RA's post - think I will try some Cascade next time.

OVW

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If you have a problem with the brass not looking good after a # of good looking loads, use some boiling hot water with some Cascade in your tumbler with just the pins and run for an hour or so, then drain and run with just water for 10 or 15 minutes. Crud slowly builds up on everything and getting rid of it usually restores the operation to normal.

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I go with the Frankford Arsenal.The brass comes out clean and you can refress your treated media with rubbing alcohol .

I have tryed Dillon,Hornady,NuFinish,and Brazos i went back to Frakford Arsenal.

Also toss in some used dryer sheets to keep the dust down.Or strips of clean cotton rags.

Edited by laz2011
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