Remington 1100 Cycling problems. UPDATE Page 3

[schapman43]

I have a used 1100 that I picked up from a local shop for dirt cheap. I had the barrel chopped to somewhere around 20"-21". I'm having a bit of trouble getting the gun to cycle completely.

The gun cycles fine most of the time but on occasion the bolt will lock back when there is a shell sitting in the action waiting to be chambered. My first thought was that maybe the magazine spring was to light and wasnt releasing shells with enough force. I installed a Wilson Combat mag extension with Wolf extra power spring and the problem still exists. Please also note that I am using cheapy federal #6 loads from Wal-Mart that run around $2.xx a box.

I'm wondering if there is something else wrong with the gun or if I just need to use a cartridge that has more shot and is physicly heavier so it hits the release tab in the action with more enertia (SP). I'm going to try some buckshot in the gun tomorrow morning to see what the result is. I'll also try some Winchester Super X or other high quality field loads and see what happens.

If you have any other ideas I would like to hear them.

Thanks

[Phil Dunlop]

I've been through the same problems with my 11 87.

I'm no expert, but I found the gun ran better with a shortened mag spring, and bending that release tab slightly forward and lightening the little leaf spring (on the side of the disconnector) that holds that carrier latch seems to have cured the problems.

If the gun has an easyloader do a search, there is a heap of discussion on that subject.

Also mine's a turkey gun designed for heavy loads, so I put an extra o ring behind the piston, now it runs light loads really well without permenant modification.

Good luck, P.D.

[Religious Shooter]

I changed my O-ring(?) and my 1100 has stopped doing that --- ran 100% for the 3G Nationals in Reno. Prior to the replacement it would do it once in a great while (say 1/500 rounds).

[schapman43]

Your gun locked back with a shell on the carrier because of a bad o-ring? I may give that a try but it just doesnt make to much sense to me. Not saying that it didnt happen or doubt that you fixed it.

[oddjob]

On my 11-87 I did the extra (low pressure??) ring (can't remember the exact name right now) and it helps. New tube spring too. I also had the local gunsmith make an aluminum follower that was a little heavier than the one that was in it. The follower isn't the "thimble" lookin' one. Its longer and fits inside the spring with the "head" sticking out against the shell. Anyway the extra weight seems to help and I didn't have a problem at the 3 gun Nats at all. My son and I shared the 11-87 at the Nats so it got double the usage, but ran like a champ.

[rhino]

You might also check to see if the mag tube is screwed-in too tightly. It should only be "finger tight."

[uscbigdawg]

My two Lincolns:

Remingtons need to be cleaned and they need to be lubed. So, get some auto parts brake cleaner (way cheaper and more effective than Gun Scrubber). Spray out your trigger group and everything up inside the receiver. Make sure your gas tube is clean (down to the metal). Replace your gas rings (the new one-piecers that a lot folks are running are pretty cool). LIGHTLY lube the gun with Corrosion X or Rem Oil (Corrosion X rules!). Spray the gas tube, trigger group and receiver area, lightly.

Replace your mag tube follower with a steel one that has the extra little tip to it (I think it's the factory original, if not order one from Briley). Clean out your mag tube (it does get dirty) and wipe down your spring with a lubed rag.

The lightest load that you can usually run in a shortened 1100 is about a 2-3/4 dram, 1 oz. load. If you're running Wally World Federal (3 dram, 1-1/8 oz) you should be fine. If it still gets a little finnicky I'd recommend a lot of the internal tweaks that others have suggested.

Good luck.

Rich

[ErikW]

Been there, done that. I re-tuned my EasyLoader engagement and it hasn't locked open, other than when empty, since. You didn't mention an EasyLoader but I'm assuming you have one.

Don't lube the gas system. Keep it clean and dry. Same for the magazine tube, spring, and follower. Just wipe everything with a silicone cloth.

[George]

A second rubber O ring is a very good way to get Remmies to cycle 100% with light loads and it’s not permanent like drilling the gas ports out.

As far as the wet/dry thing goes, I am gonna weigh in on the “keep it lubed” side of things. I used to run my 11-87 dry with a silicone wipe like Erik suggests and I had no problems. I hardly ever changed the rubber O ring either. But, and here is the rub, I always shot 3.75 dram hi-base #4 shells back then and I am certain the excellent function record in my dry days had more to do with a very stout loading than with any specific maintenance scheme. Do keep the magazine dry and clean inside though.

Once I saw the error of my ways and put a tighter choke in so I cold take down steel way better with 2.75 & 3 dram #7 shot loads, I realized that the Remmie’s actually like to run wet. They also want the lube to be a high temp one that won’t carbonize in the gas system. Remoil is recommended by the Mfgr. for this very reason. I discovered that a detergent automotive oil (I use Castrol GTX) works as well, or better. I slop the whole gas system and the entire action with it before assembly. The detergent oil doesn’t carbonize like other crap and the gas system now wipes clean instead of needing scrubbing like it did when I ran it dry.

Rich is dead-on IMHO. Take the whole trigger group out and clean it with BrakeKleen, drop it in a bowl of motor oil, shake it off till it doesn’t drip and puterbackin‘ soaked. Slop the whole receiver and the gas system until everything is coated. Repeat every 4-600 rounds (YMMV) and change the gas O ring(s) every other cleaning. The Teflon ones from Brownells are the Shjzt!

--

Regards,

[kspeer]

I shoot an 1100 as well. I enlarged my gas ports in the barrel. There should be two holes inside that are kind of hard to see. I have heard of people taking them to .120, but I simply opened them up until the gun cycled properly. I also use the Federal surplus pack from Wally world.

Kevin

[Religious Shooter]

Your gun locked back with a shell on the carrier because of a bad o-ring?  I may give that a try but it just doesnt make to much sense to me.  Not saying that it didnt happen or doubt that you fixed it.

Yah... come to think of it, I actually did two things:

1. Changed the O-Ring and;

2. Took the barrel band off.

No lock back with a shell on the carrier so far.

But anyways if you take a look at the posts, most of them are recommending you tighten up the seal --- me with one new one and others suggesting two new ones.

[schapman43]

I do not have a easyloader on the gun at this time. I tried some Winchester AA Heavy Target loads in the gun today and ran into a new problem. I still have the lockback with shell on carrier problem and now a new one. Now on occasion a shell will get stuck sticking partially out of the magazine tube. I have to push up on the carrier and then cycle the action to get the shell to come out completely and then put it back into the magazine.

Before I took the gun out today I sprayed the trigger group with gun scrubber and cleaned it up with a brush. I then lubed it with break free really well. I also cleaned out the magazine tube which did have some rust. Tomorrow I'll try an extra o-ring and see what happens.

[jhgtyre]

Sorry if somebody already asked this but you wouldn't happen to have one of the hard plastic side saddles that screws on would you? I had one on my 1100 and it was too tight. It caused all kinds of weird malf's. Once it was loosened up things ran great. I have since ditched it and am using one of the 3gun Gear side saddles.

-ld

[TMC]

Seconding what's already been said, 1100's need to be clean and the gas system runs the gun. If you shortened the barrel and didn't enlarge the gas ports you'll bound to have problems.

You need to decide on the lightest load you're going to shoot, get a cordless drill and a selection of drill bits and go to the range. shoot a bunch and if the gun stops, drill out the ports only fractionally larger than they are now. Shoot again and repeat as necessary. Tha's what got my 1100 to run 100%.

I use a Remington product on the mag tube and the metal gas rings, I think is called Dry Lube or something like that. It is a spray on graphite based product that's completely dry after application. Best of both worlds, lubed and dry.

Good luck.

[EricW]

By the way, if anybody is replacing the "barrel seal" (aka a stupid freaking o-ring) on their 1100, I've got the product sourced.

It's a -022 size o-ring. 0.989 ID x 0.070 W

You'll need to specify Viton (Fluorocarbon) rings, NOT Buna-N. (Buna-N is only rated to 270F and will fry.) Viton is good to 400F. I'm going to see if I can source some true Teflon seals and see how they work. It's hard to tell, but I think the Remmy/Brownells seals are Buna-N which is why they're so crappy. And the ones Brownells sells as "Teflon" can't be Teflon if its the one they're showing in the picture. Teflon seals are milky-white - not black.

For god's sake, don't buy your seals from Brownells. They're charging $5 for an o-ring that literally sells for 5 CENTS or less at the local hydraulic shop. I'm still working on sourcing Teflon seals. I've got the price down to $.40 ea, but may do better than that.

I'm tempted to start selling these as cost as a service to humanity. 100X+ markup is pretty damned irritating.

[IPSCDRL]

Thanks Eric. I'll be watching to see when you get them. I'm sure I should replace the ring in my gun since I have no idea how old it is or how many rounds its seen. It could be the orriginal for all I know.

[George]

And the ones Brownells sells as "Teflon" can't be Teflon if its the one they're showing in the picture. Teflon seals are milky-white - not black.

The one’s I get from Brownell’s are a Teflon Seal and they are a silver (I guess you could call it milky) white. I bought a dozen a few years back for just under 4 sumthin’ each. I have never seen black one’s from Brownells since I have been getting them there. I don’t care what I pay for them as long as they work right and these do.

Here is the part # and current price

767-158-990 F15899 12 GA. BARREL SEAL 5.43

Eric, if you start stocking ones that actually work as well as the “Teflon” ones that I am getting from Brownell’s at even 50 cents less, I will buy them from you. But the ones I listed are most certainly Teflon without a doubt Bro.

--

Regards,

Edited July 9, 2004 by George

[Phil Dunlop]

"I'm tempted to start selling these as cost as a service to humanity. 100X+ markup is pretty damned irritating."

Eric, you'll be sainted for sure for that information, I've said this before but over here I was quoted $17 for an O ring, about the same price as McDs for me and my daughters or a dozen Steinlager!

[EricW]

Eric, if you start stocking ones that actually work as well as the “Teflon” ones that I am getting from Brownell’s at even 50 cents less, I will buy them from you. But the ones I listed are most certainly Teflon without a doubt Bro.

George,

Thanks for the thought and the patronage, but the only thing that going on my site is the spec for the o-ring. They literally sell for pennies each at a fittings/hydraulics shop. You could buy a fistfull of the silly things for $5.

The profiteering on them is incredibly irritating and I damned well won't be participating.

[kimel]

If you can get super duper ones and can get them down cheap put me down for a dozen.

Sportsmen's Warehouse is selling a ring that is silvery colored. Not sure what the heck it is but it works and they are around $2 a pop instead of the Brownell's price.

I meant to measure mine out and spec it at Small Parts Inc but ended up dropping it into the gun before I got it measured. I learned long ago not to measure a used o-ring when searching for replacements. But that is another story....

[EricW]

I learned long ago not to measure a used o-ring when searching for replacements.  But that is another story....

Yup, that could be the fly in the ointment on this project, but something would have to be radically weird for that to be the case with this ring. The step down in size to (-021) is 0.926 ID and the step up (-023) is 1.051 ID - neither of which is close to the 0.975 diameter of the groove on the mag tube. So, I'm *pretty* sure I'm correct, but we'll know for sure on Monday.

I think a dozen will run you approximately 23.673 cents. I only accept cash, money orders, and free reshoots.

[George]

Seriously Eric, if they are the real deal, I think you ought to get a couple of k and we will all gladly allow you to make a reasonably ridiculous profit on them in return. If you do find they are the shjzt, put me down for 4 dozen. I change them every other strip and clean whether they look good or not.

Thanks,

BTW, I think the .926 ones may be actually be right because the ones I put on are always a stretch fit over the main tube and a snug fit in the groove. Imagonna check it out next chance I get to take the warhorse apart and measure and test fit a fresh one.

Edited July 10, 2004 by George

[kimel]

Oh hell yeah. Go ahead and make a reasonably ridiculous profit on the darn things and make the minimum order enough to make it worth your time. Let's see...that would be about a gross. Probably not many repeat buyers but hey, at that price I would start tossing them and replacing at every cleaning.

If you measured the groove then you are probably correct on the size. I had plans to buy a pile of them next time I was at Sportsmen's Warehouse but if you have a better deal then away we will go.

And Pat Sweeney will have to strike the line in his shotgun book about the o-rings and having to just suck it up and pay the $$$ (not a direct quote).

[EricW]

Geo,

If you have a set of calipers, could you measure the mean inside ID of a new ring for me, please? If I get it worked out, I'll just mail you the damn things for free in exchange. These may not be *exactly* like the Remmy rings in composition, but I just don't care. I'll chuck them every time I strip the gun. It's not like I can't afford two cents.

If they're really the -021 ring, I'll reorder on Monday.

[George]

f you have a set of calipers, could you measure the mean inside ID of a new ring for me, please?

I'll chuck them every time I strip the gun

I would love to change them every time I strip & clean (4-500 rounds) and will if I can get ones that are cheaper.

I will measure my 11-87 groove and a new ring if I still have one. I think I may have just put the last two I had into my 11-87 recently. I’ll check a little later and get back to ya.

--

Regards,