Bassman Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 I need some help my open gun in 9mm major has broken 2 reverse plugs. I have never had this problem with any other guns. Any ideas of a fix or what might be causing it would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLM Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Where are they breaking? Are they coil binding? Full size gun / recoil system or a shorty / mid length? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshidaex Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 With flange or without? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassman Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 Where are they breaking? Are they coil binding? Full size gun / recoil system or a shorty / mid length? They are breaking where the top side of the plug meets the barrel, right down the the slide on both sides of the plug,about an inch long. I don't think they are coil binding. It is a fullsized gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassman Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 With flange or without? With Flange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OperationHitFactor Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Pics would be helpful. The gun too, not just the reverse plug. Are you running a shock buff? What pound spring? Is the reverse plug nice and snug or was it loose. In addition, take pics of the guide rod at the rear. Is it smacking the barrel feet or link? There are a couple different things that could cause this. Most likely culprit would be the spring is binding up and in the future a few coils may need to be cut off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Price Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 weird I just broke mine last week aslo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassman Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 Pics would be helpful. The gun too, not just the reverse plug. Are you running a shock buff? What pound spring? Is the reverse plug nice and snug or was it loose. In addition, take pics of the guide rod at the rear. Is it smacking the barrel feet or link? There are a couple different things that could cause this. Most likely culprit would be the spring is binding up and in the future a few coils may need to be cut off. I am running a shock buff. A 9lb recoil spring with a couple of coils cut off so the slide stop would engage. I would say the reverse plug is loose. I will try to attach some pics. I guess I don't understand what is meant by the spring binding up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshidaex Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Spring bind=coil bind. Happens when all coils of a spring are touching each other when fully compressed. Happens sometimes when you use a new spring that is too long. The shock buff would be one item to remove since those those things cause more problems than fixing any. The plug needs to be fitted correctly to the slide and the slide needs to be prepped correctly. I'm just guessing here but I think the radius near the OD of the plug and flange is not mating up correctly to the slide. Won't be able to diagnose properly without pics of the plug and slide. Last I checked, caspian won't warranty slides that utilize a flanged plug... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgtis108 Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I had a gun once that the reverse plug was to long. When in battery, the plug touched the comp, which pushed the plug back into the gun. It wasn't much but just enough. It shortened it and everything was good.This gave me fits until I figured it out. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassman Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 Here are some pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshidaex Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 (edited) Pictures are worth a thousand words.... The plug should be shorter than the slide when installed. The slide should be impacting the guide rod head/buffer. Not the plug. The front of the plug looks to be about right but I would trim it down so there is no worries about the plug hitting the comp. When you compress the guide rod/spring/plug/shock buff combo, does the plug contact the shock buff? Without the shock buff does the plug contact the guide rod head? Edited March 29, 2012 by yoshidaex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassman Posted March 29, 2012 Author Share Posted March 29, 2012 Pictures are worth a thousand words.... The plug should be shorter than the slide when installed. The slide should be impacting the guide rod head/buffer. Not the plug. The front of the plug looks to be about right but I would trim it down so there is no worries about the plug hitting the comp. When you compress the guide rod/spring/plug/shock buff combo, does the plug contact the shock buff? Without the shock buff does the plug contact the guide rod head? Yes to both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshidaex Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 Looks like a slightly too long plug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassman Posted March 29, 2012 Author Share Posted March 29, 2012 Thanks for you input. when the new one arrives, I will do a little fitting,and not just drop it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfmaster Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 I know this is a zombie post but here goes. I'm replacing my current fitted Night Hawk custom reverse plug in my 38 SC open gun with a CK Arms stainless steel reverse plug. I inserted the CK Arms plug and it's too long, extending past the front of the slide and touching the compensator. What tool can be used to file down the front of the reverse plug so it's below the surface of the slide's spring plug tunnel? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshidaex Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Depending on how skilled you are, you can use a belt sander, a file, a grinder or a Dremel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troupe Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Plug is to long Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nugget Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 I use a grinder for the big part then finish with a file and or stone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Hello: I use a lathe to shorten the reverse plug. You can use a bench grinder also. If you rotate the plug as you are grinding it down it will make it pretty square. Your fingers are the lathe in this case. Get rid of the shock buff also. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfmaster Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Hi Guys, I appreciate your quick and informative responses. I have another question. After grinding the front of the reverse plug, what tool or material do I use to polish the front by the end of the guide rod so it looks factory new like it was never worked on in the first place? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troupe Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 A fine cut file that won't leave the cut marks (keep the file clean as you work) then different grades of paper to remove the marks, then blast it if it is matte finish that is required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Hello: Use a polishing wheel in your bench grinder and turn it like you did when you ground it down. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 (edited) I shorten small parts (mostly screws) with them chucked in the cordless drill. This makes for a portable lathe that you can then take to the grinder, buffer, sandpaper, etc. You can also chuck it in a drill press and use a file and sandpaper. This makes it easy to keep the end square and takes all the work out of doing it by hand. I have a big lathe for larger sizes. Edited August 19, 2015 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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