Aint No Rest 4 The Wicked Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 I have been taking my shooting a bit more serious in the last few months. I only shoot about 5-6 months out of the year due to other hobbies. I have been working on my draw as I shoot mostly steel matches. What would be a good time for say an "A" shooter from the surrender for the first shot on target, from a production set up? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydiver Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 (edited) What target size and distance? There is a difference of draw to first shot for a lower A zone 5 feet away, and an upper A zone 25 yards away. Edited February 27, 2012 by Skydiver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a matt Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 (edited) your draw time should be the same. it should not matter the distance to the target. time to first shot will depend on your sight picture or the distance to the target. Edited February 27, 2012 by a matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aint No Rest 4 The Wicked Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 Say a 12" plate at 10 yards. What would be a "A" level time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMC Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 (edited) About a 1.35-1.40 Edited February 27, 2012 by TMC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimH Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Wow!! 1.35-1.40 sec? For some reason, I would have thought a little faster than that for someone shooting "A" class. I was figuring somewhere around 1.1-1.2 on average at that distance. But I'm not very sure.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Wow!! 1.35-1.40 sec? For some reason, I would have thought a little faster than that for someone shooting "A" class. I was figuring somewhere around 1.1-1.2 on average at that distance. But I'm not very sure.... Ted Puentes told me he shoots for (no pun intended) 1.2 seconds for a draw - says he can go faster, but then takes the chance of a poor grip. Saving .1 or .2 seconds isn't going to help you very much on most COF's. Better to be regular and smooth. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuyC Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 I would say 1.2 would be an accurate time for an A class shooter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgkeller Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Wow!! 1.35-1.40 sec? For some reason, I would have thought a little faster than that for someone shooting "A" class. I was figuring somewhere around 1.1-1.2 on average at that distance. But I'm not very sure.... Ted Puentes told me he shoots for (no pun intended) 1.2 seconds for a draw - says he can go faster, but then takes the chance of a poor grip. Saving .1 or .2 seconds isn't going to help you very much on most COF's. Better to be regular and smooth. Jack It will help a lot in steel matches where the OP says he spends most of his match time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadeslade Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 your draw time should be the same. it should not matter the distance to the target. time to first shot will depend on your sight picture or the distance to the target. Nichts. The only way to measure draw time is first shot time on the timer, unless you use high speed photography or something. And what good is a fast draw if you don't shoot? Draw time, as we know it, is definitely distance and target related. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aint No Rest 4 The Wicked Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 Thanks guys. I shoot Steel 90% of the time. The closest plate in the local match is usually around 7-10 yards out. I almost alway take the closest plate first. I have worked on my draw and my first shot on the the plate is a 1.1-1.5 At 1.1 I am at the edge out of control. a 1.25-1.4 seems to be where I am at. I don't shoot any kind of classifier to know where I am at A,B,C,.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadeslade Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Thanks guys. I shoot Steel 90% of the time. The closest plate in the local match is usually around 7-10 yards out. I almost alway take the closest plate first. I have worked on my draw and my first shot on the the plate is a 1.1-1.5 At 1.1 I am at the edge out of control. a 1.25-1.4 seems to be where I am at. I don't shoot any kind of classifier to know where I am at A,B,C,.... What size are those plates? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonovanM Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 I would say 1.2 would be an accurate time for an A class shooter. x2. Around a second - BUT, the most important thing about the draw is getting a good grip. Never sacrifice that for speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aint No Rest 4 The Wicked Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 12" plates, I guess I am around a B+. still have a bit of work to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonovanM Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 still have a bit of work to do. Good attitude to have. It's true at every level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadyscott999 Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 I can get consistent a zone hits with my limited setup in a cr speed in 1.2ish. Any faster, I will flub my grip 70% of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimH Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 I wasn't doubting that when increasing speed, that you chance bad grip or bad shots... the OP was asking what draw times are for an "A" class shooter on a 12" plate at 10yds was. I'm just thinking that 1.35-1.4 sec. was just a bit on the slow side of things for an "A" class....Especially if the OP shoots steel. Stand and shoots are where a good (AND fast) draw would definitely come into play right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimH Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 12" plates, I guess I am around a B+. still have a bit of work to do. Don't think of it as an "A", "B", "C" etc... I know of a few guys that have remarkably fast and good draws that hover around 1.0-1.1 that are "C" and "B" shooters. A good draw is just a spec of measure of a shooters classification. I'm in complete agreement with your statement of just have a little more work to do....Don't we all!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aint No Rest 4 The Wicked Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 You are completely right I was just talking about my draw. the rest of my shooting has quite a bit of work to go as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sin-ster Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 I can get consistent a zone hits with my limited setup in a cr speed in 1.2ish. Any faster, I will flub my grip 70% of the time. I was going to say-- Let's not forget that the holster and sight type have a direct relationship to draw time. Obviously, an Open gun from a Ghost-type holster is going to be faster to the first shot than an iron sighted gun from a standard/Production-legal type of holster. I would say to the OP-- don't worry so much about what others are doing in terms of specific skill sets, and how it relates to your current or desired Classification. Work on everything, endlessly, with the goal of reaching your physical limitation in terms of times. It's very possible to achieve a classification despite not being "on par" with your draw time, simply because your transitions are better (to use one example). Does that mean you should ignore transitions and focus entirely on the draw? Absolutely not-- develop both skills in unison, and you'll be that much more ahead of the game. The beauty of improving the drawstroke of course is that it can be done just as efficiently in dry fire as in live-- the breaking of that first shot has nothing to do with managing recoil, tracking the sights or calling the hits/misses, unlike working on transitions. If you truly feel you are behind the curve in this regard, you can work on it every day at home! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadeslade Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 1 second Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nimitz Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 if you would like a measure of merit (not sure if it means anything) ... my training instructor is a GM & with his limited gun I've seen him do a draw to 1st shot in .91 with a .21 split where he claims that is just about as fast as he can go & still be in control & makes 2 A's at 10 yds ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Nichts. The only way to measure draw time is first shot time on the timer, unless you use high speed photography or something. And what good is a fast draw if you don't shoot? Draw time, as we know it, is definitely distance and target related. You're missing his point - and he's right (although overloading the term "draw time" isn't helping him make the point). He's not actually talking about measuring "draw time", but rather an important point about the speed of the motions in the draw You should always - always - draw the gun and get it mounted and into the target in exactly the same time. That is, as fast as you can move accurately. The only thing that should differ between a shot on an A-zone at 3 yards, and a shot on an A-zone at 50 yards is the amount of time you take to line up the sights on target, and cleanly break the shot. Your draw stroke should not change as the targets get harder or easier (aside, perhaps, from some "early engagement" on really really close targets... but that's really for another discussion). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KentG Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I have a related question. Is an open gun with Cmore faster or slower in general? This year for multigun I'm switching from my XD tactical 45 to a XD 5.25 9mm with a Carver mount and Cmore. First time in many years I'm shooting a 9 but I figure since I am shooting open due to shotgun I might as well take advantage of the pistol side. This is my first open gun and am working on draw times with dry fire and at the range. Seems that 2.0 is about the best I can do and have a good grip. I am willing to give up time for a good grip. And since it's multigun the pistol draw is much less an issue. Being new to open it just seems to me to take a bit more time to aquire the dot on target for the first shot. And I'm really trying to concentrate on keeping my head up and grip so the dot comes right into view. If I DON'T have a GOOD grip I end up hunting for the dot a lot of the time on the draw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermoto Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I have a related question. Is an open gun with Cmore faster or slower in general? For me, 7y and in a limited gun is slightly faster. I need to see less with an iron sight to make a good shot. As I get further out, I need to see more with iron to make the same shot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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