Supermoto

JMG That is awesome that you found a pistol that allows you to keep shooting.

I never put much weight into who shoots what gun. Sometimes the company isn't the actual builder of the gun

Yep, if you go on other forums that have a lot of tactical-timmies. The Staccato owners can no longer flex on people because of how many timmies now have Staccatos, so they get an Atlas guns now. It's funny now that they have "discovered" the 2011 market thru Staccato's instagram influencers

I like the work Business End Customs does. https://www.businessendcustoms.com/

I don't see that at all. But cool. I will give them a ring to see what the height is. I appreciate the help

I'm not seeing .495 anywhere. It would nice if I was wrong because it does look low

The dovetail on that is .475. To small. but I will reach out to Fusion. Since they have so many sights, they might know of something...

I have a S&W 1911sc commander. For some stupid reason, SW used SW Gen 3 rear sights that are "Novak Style" These 3rd gen sights are short. Around .330 from bottom of Dovetail to top of the sight. A gunsmith cut the slide for true Novak and installed an adjustable Novak rear. But he only cut the dovetail wider and not deeper, The Novak adjustable is .450 DT to Tip. Then the Gunsmith cut the novak front sight deeper into the slide than the factory sight. So now I have a rear sight that is too high and a front is too low. With basically a .210 Front sight(.240 but cut deeper into the slide) and a .330 off the slide rear, all the way adjusted down. I am 4" at 10 yards, 8" at 20 So I put a .270 front sight on, which is .240 off the slide, This got me down to 2" hight at 10y. Now the easiest way to solve this is to get a .300 front sight. But that .270 already looks like a skyscaper. And this is for a carry gun So what I am looking for and can't find is a super low Novak rear sight. .495x60* Dovetail Dawson doesn't make one and neither does Novak. Anyone know of a .330 bottom of dovetail to top of sight Novak cut sight.....maybe something that is designed for another gun but could work here? I have about enough interest in this gun to replace the rear sight. Welding the slide and having it cut correctly is way beyond my attention level for this gun. thanks Mike

You don't have to eat any time. It doesn't take any longer to just keep your focus on the target you are shooting. It takes patience.

Yeah, I have the same issue. You are seeing the sights come back down for the second shot, but you are not seeing it lift because you are transitioning your eyes to the next target. As your eyes transition, you pull the gun off target You aren't finishing the shot. When your eyes tells you to break the shot and when you actually do can be a big delay There is no way I saw the dot lift on this second shot.

GM Limited. Back from 2015. But I wouldn't put any additional weight on my opinion because of it.

Grip strength is very important. You can also use you chest muscle to aid in that griping force. Mike Seelander has a good video on it

that is text book awesome shooting...wow

There is a guy up in MA with a awesome scoop draw. His name is Matt, wears a Team Bacon shirt....he can help you

I use 100% target focus. It doesn't mean I don't see my sights aligned on the target, just that the target is clear and the sight are fuzzy. You still have to see your sights, you still have to aim and call your shots. If all you are doing is looking at the target and not your sights, then you will never improve

You would still have extra rounds in a 40 mag before the reload. Shoot as fast as you can call your shot. Extra rounds don't make you faster nor do you need to rely on them to shoot aggressively.

There is a big difference between running your gun dry and being down a couple rounds Do you even shoot open?

So I'm going to need 50-75 rounds to get through the 32 round stage? I rather just call my shots, get my hits and move on

why would you have to do 2 reloads?

The recoil has to go somewhere, so if its not up, its back into your hands, wrists and elbows, depending on how you control recoil. My personal belief is that I don't want a super flat shooting up gun. I want a nice controllable, easy to track dot. make it easier to call shots. Plus the dot is back to POA before I can break the next shot. I probably wouldn't build a 40 open gun, but it that all I had, I think mag capacity would be more of a detriment than how well it works the comp. STI DVC open gun will be fine for major. I wouldn't use the shorty steel gun for major

Awesome. Did you get the kick off?

If the gun fits correctly and the comb isn't whacking you in the cheek every shot, then the recoil is very manageable. When I first started shooting clays, I used a friends older browning. It was fit for him, but terrible for me. It put me off o/u because I thought they all shot like this and I would need a semi to be comfortable. I later learned it was the gun beating me up not the recoil

I had a A400 with kick off. I really did not care for the kick off. Made for a weird slow recoil impulse, it was soft, but it felt like the gun was recoiling for too long. I have a Silver pigeon too. recoil is more, but very quick, sharper, but it feels much better. I would also look at the Benelli super sport, very reliable and shoots soft enough that it is the gun my wife prefers to shoot. It has a ramped rib, so I find it fits a little better for heads up shooting, compared to the berettas that I need to really keep my head down on. I rented a browning citori field and was crushing clays with it. It was an old beat up rental gun with who knows how many rounds, big dent in the rib. It shot awesome for me. When its raining, I bring a remington Tac 4 with a 22" barrel, it also shoot great, doesn't like to lock back with light loads, but it hit where I am looking, although the sub 24" barrel is generally frowned upon on sporting clay course and skeet fields It is really going to come down to fit and if the gun shoots where you expect it too. So try as many as you can

Anytime it you are required to move an object from one place to another, it is almost always a higher HF if you don't and take the penalties instead. If the WSB say it has to be in the 2nd location before you engage the last target or it's a per shot penalty, shoot at steel for the last target if possible. Also see if there are places you can engage a target without moving to another position. Lean far out of a port etc. Also, keep an eye on fault line. Once I shot next to a balance bridge not on it, because they only put a fault line on one side

Went sporting clay shooting today. We play by "Renee's rules" You have to shoot the show pair and the trapper picks the birds. Makes it fun when the are 3 traps per station. You don't know what bird is coming or from where