DULLYJAY Posted May 29, 2004 Share Posted May 29, 2004 I got a squib round in my 1911 barrell 5" . How do I get this out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bulm5 Posted May 29, 2004 Share Posted May 29, 2004 GEt an aluminm rod ( Ithink Matt Burkett use a pencil), insert from the muzzle and gently tap the rod. That should take care of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warpspeed Posted May 29, 2004 Share Posted May 29, 2004 I use an old cleaning rod that the handle broke on. It is alumimum like blum5 suggested. What caliber ? If it is a 40, a 3/8" wood dowel is perfect. slide down muzzel of barrel and tap with hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.40AET Posted May 30, 2004 Share Posted May 30, 2004 I had one stubborn squib from the "Lee" days. I had to take the barrel out and them use a hammer and aluminum rod to get it out. When the gun is fully assembled, trying to knock out the squib tends to just unlock the barrel and the slide then travels backwards defeating the hammer. If it doesn't come out on the first hit or two, take the barrel out. Don't try engaging the thumb safety to stop the slide travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ausglock Posted May 30, 2004 Share Posted May 30, 2004 G'day All. I had a teflon coated 40 cal lead bullet stuck in a Glock G22. I bent 3 cleaning rods trying to get it out. The answer was a battery Drill and a 1/4" drillbit. Drilled the centre out of the bullet and used a wooded dowel to knock it out easy. Hooroo. Regards, Trevor Grafton Australia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gm iprod Posted May 30, 2004 Share Posted May 30, 2004 I keep a complete set of brass rods from 5mm up to 10mm in .5mm steps. This has saved my bacon from many an experiment. DON'T ASK. Plus all my mates know that I have these and they are quite happy to have me do the deed. Use a BIG hammer and TAP gently. This is easier than taking a run up with a tack hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin c Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 Brownell's use to, and, I think, still sells sets of brass squib rods of .38cal/9mm, 10mm, and .44/.45 caliber. The rods are both long and heavy enough that you can tap out the squib w/o needing a hammer. They can also be bought individually. Be warned - the set I got was pretty tight, and I have ended up using the .38 rod for 40, and the 10mm rod for my 44. I ended up buying a 5/16ths brass rod at a hardware store for the 9 mm. Actually, now that I think about it, the small rod is probably big enough to use for all three calibers w/o jamming between the lands and the ogive of the bullet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 My 2 bits is to remove your barrel before doing any tapping. No sense in beating crap out of your barrel link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin c Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 My 2 bits is to remove your barrel before doing any tapping. No sense in beating crap out of your barrel link. I've never had a squib except for two that I set up deliberately to see what they really sounded like. All the squibs I've had experience with were, as best I can tell from what the shooter was willing to say and what the round did, no powder/primer only squibs. They were all pretty easy to tap out, as none of them got the bullet as far as clearing the leade. Low powder squibs that get further into the barrel I can imagine being much more difficult to get out, and perhaps more dangerous, since the following round will chamber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parsonm1 Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 A set of squib rods can also be built from brass or aluminum stock from a place like McMaster-Carr. I bought stock sizes to make rods for 38/9, 40 and 45. I made sets for friends and sold a couple of sets. Material was way cheaper than buying a set from Brownells and I still have some stock left to make a couple more sets. Marv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 At one point somebody gave me a coffee can full of weak 40 ammo since it wouldn't cycle his semi-auto. I loaded it up into my 610 and started shooting it off.. until I hit a squib that stuck the jacketed bullet about an inch from the muzzle of my 6.5" barrel. Pounding the bullet back down 6" of barrel is not a fun thing. When that happened for the second time, the whole can got trashed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skywalker Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 .. until I hit a squib that stuck the jacketed bullet about an inch from the muzzle of my 6.5" barrel. Pounding the bullet back down 6" of barrel is not a fun thing. sssshhh...may I whisper...squib puller cartridge...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Beverley Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 sssshhh...may I whisper...squib puller cartridge...? NO! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skywalker Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 sssshhh...may I whisper...squib puller cartridge...? NO! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davecutts Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 Arrodondo makes a squib rod. http://www.speedshooter.com/product_detail.cfm?ID=AA5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KNICK Posted June 2, 2004 Share Posted June 2, 2004 Dillon’s catalog also offers a “multi purpose” SR that works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbletap_ed Posted June 10, 2004 Share Posted June 10, 2004 Go to Home Depot and get a hardwood rod that just fits in the tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wsimpso1 Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 Well, I had trouble with my meter not dropping powder every once in a while, and I had 300 suspect loads that would stick in the bore. I splintered a hardwood dowel one time, and then decided that if I can make ammo with a bullet but no powder, I can make ammo with powder but no bullet. 155's are done this way... I charged sized and primed cases with 2.5 g of Bullseye, took a fired case as a tool and blanked some wads from 3/8" PVC rigid foam (I am building a fiberglass airplane), and seated the foam wads solidly down over the powder. The case ID is smaller as you go to the bottom, so the wads seat and stay quite nicely, but if you were the least bit uncomfortable, you could seal it with a few drops of candle wax. They reside in a ziploc with the suspect ammo. I will only shoot this stuff in practice sessions, and when I get a ping, I clear the gun, confirm the squib, seat a mag with the special ammo in the top space, and send the stuck bullet downrange. The load is so soft that it barely opens the gun, and I am back in business is 20 seconds. Oh, my progressive press now has a Dillon powder meter on it. The standard meter worked great for 25-40 g of RL15, etc, but the little dinky charges that just make Major in .45 ACP was just wrong for it... Billski They are so convenient, that I Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Boudrie Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 A semi-related problem is what do you do when a round is stuck in the chamber at the line and will not eject? Although snapping the extractor over the case rim on a 1911 is an uncool way to load a single round, I find it very convenient to keep a small extractor-width straight screwdrive in the range bag for use in clearing "stuck' guns. If a shooter has a gun lock up and just can't retract the slide, the screwdriver can be used to gently lift the extractor hook over the case rim. At that point, the slide can be removed from the gun, the gun disassembled and barrel removed (don't leave the bbl in the slide, as there is the chance of an intertial firing pit if you drop a slide/bbl assembly with around in the chamber). No, this is not a recommended procedure for good extractor health. But, if you have a loaded gun on the line and just can't retract the slide, it can help you out of that jam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.40AET Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 wsimpso1--I see that you have found Skywalker67's "squib puller". http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...opic=14006&st=0 Very controversial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin c Posted June 19, 2004 Share Posted June 19, 2004 wsimpso1--I see that you have found Skywalker67's "squib puller". Since the bullet is being blown out the barrel, shouldn't that be "squib pusher"? Or mebbe "squib poufer"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wsimpso1 Posted June 23, 2004 Share Posted June 23, 2004 Hey, I did not find it on another thread, I just talked about an obvious (to me anyway) method of clearing a squib. But then I have had the benefit of 4 1/2 years as an R&D engineer with Remington Arms, so my background may be a bit deeper than most... The other thread is interesting... A lot of discussion is on the legalities of this in a competition COF. That never entered my mind. Let's put the discussion of its safety in perspective. If I am in competition and I think my gun has a squib caught, I am done on that stage, and after demonstrating to the RO the gun is indeed cleared of the ability to fire, I respectfully retire to the Safe Area, and knock the bullet free with my squib rod and a mallet. After having done that with my batch of suspect ammo, I retired that batch to practice only, fixed the problem with my loading press, and carry only known good batches of ammo to matches in order to minimize chances of having to go through the embarassment of stage retirement. Now, if I am in a practice session at my home range shooting from that batch of ammo known to occaisionally squid a round, I clear the gun, check for unburned (but burnable powder), check that the rest of the gun appears safe to fire, hand cycle my special case with a short charge of powder but no bullet, clear the squib, hand cycle a (more or less) normal round into the chamber and continue with the practice session. This practice of seperate projectile and powder charge is a standard way of operating many types of powder burning guns. The 16" naval guns of New Jersey class battleships and the like and current 155 mm heavy artillery both do this, as do schuetzen rifles, late 19th century Palma (long range) rifles, etc. A bunch of modern high power rifle shooters soft seat, with barely any neck tension, the round loaded longer than the throat will allow, so that closing the bolt shoves the bullet back in case and the round starts with the bullet engraved into the origin of the rifling. It is safely and regularly done out there, and in an environment where accuracy matters more than in our game. In all of these cases, the loads are specifically worked up and developed around the bullet being seated to a given location in the throat. My squibs have had bullets that barely required a tap to dislodge and others that had full depth rifling marks over the entire bearing length of the bullet. I am not bothered at all by someone using a reduced load to clear that bullet, but the thought of their trying to load to give Major with it is scary - there is just too much variability in where the bullet is and thus in the loading density... One scary squib condition is a very soft primer (low proportion of primary explosive). This will go pop, might get the bullet into the rifling, but the powder charge does not light. Now you have a bullet in the bore, a slug of unburned but burnable powder mashed against the bullet, and if you seat a powder charged case behind that and fire it, you may have both charges go bang. You folks do know what happens with a double charge, don't you? No, I would require a more careful review of the gun before allowing a powder but no bullet to be fired through the gun, and that is just not compatible with doing it during a stage. So, while the practice of clearing a squib with a special round has every appearance of being entirely safe, I support the range officer putting a stop to things right now, clearing the gun, scoring the CoF, and sending the shooter to the safe area for non-pyrotechnic means of repair. But at my home range with time to inspect carefully prior to actually pulling the trigger again, well, the special ammo seems a lot easier on everything than beating on a rod stuck down the muzzle... Billski Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now