The perfect HM rifle?

[DyNo!]

I saw Rob's revised setup this weekend at a local match and shot him a PM. It's a damn good idea and if I didn't shoot a Prismatic, I'd be all over it.

Edited October 31, 2011 by DyNo!

[HRider]

Both my AR pattern 308's have been spot on with everything except CBC and it has ridiculusly hard primers. As far as actual AR10s, I have had 2 of those back in the bad old days and never could get either of them to work worth a darn. The AR10 fans are quick to point out that 99%of the problems [including mine] were magazine related, but then it does not matter how accurate a rifle is if you cannot get the bullets into the chamber...

I have known several people that have had similar experiences to yours with the AR10s. They have seen mine run at matches and asked what I did to it. I must have been the lucky one, so far mine has always ran (even with Gen 1 mags and M14 mags that I cut a hole in the side of). Only problem has been reliable detonation of some surplus primers with JP yellow springs. Armalite sent me an advertisement wanting me to send my rifle in for their "reliability upgrade". I said no, if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it.

Hurley

[RiggerJJ]

I saw Rob's revised setup this weekend at a local match and shot him a PM. It's a damn good idea and if I didn't shoot a Prismatic, I'd be all over it.

Elaborate!?

jj

[barrysuperhawk]

Yes, please do elaborate, and post pix. Rob does have some of the coolest looking toys...

Back on my own topic, I shot the Scout M1A the other day and it does seem quite accurate, even with surplus ball ammo. I have not had a chance to put the globe sight on it but I think I am going to be looking for a hooded rear after all. One thing I noticed, though, is how in the heck do you reload these quickly? I am experenced with hook and rock magazines after all my favorite is a FAL, but this beast rather confounded my efforts to quickly load a mag. I had the best luck reloading with the bolt open, but that, obviously is not optimal. What's the trick? I know Mr Kelly will probably say practice, but this rifle is TIIIIGHT compared to, well compared to anything else I have owned.

Oh, and no, Bryan, I haven't given up on anything...

Edited November 1, 2011 by barrysuperhawk

[Bryan 45]

Trapr Swonson showed me the best M1A reload method at my very 1st major 3 gun match a few years ago. To see it, tune in to 3 Gun Nation this Friday or Sunday.

I'll do my best to describe it. Mags are in the carrier w/ bullets down and to the rear. Grab the magazine from the carrier with your thumb along the back of the magazine and all four fingers across the front of the mag. The end of your thumb needs to stick out beyond the magazine about one knuckle length. Pull the mag from the carrier, and as you are bringing it up to the rifle, rotate the mag so that rounds are now up and facing forward (just like the mag goes into the rifle). Remember that thumb sticking out past the edge of the mag? Use it to hit the mag release and in the same motion, hit the empty mag w/ the thumb to push it down and out of the rifle. When done properly, the empty mag will land about 4 feet in front of you. This down and forward motion puts your hand in the correct position to rock the new mag into the rifle. Lock the front of the mag, rock the rear up to latch!

This can be done w/ either bolt forward or bolt locked back.

[Dan Sierpina]

Bryan,

Kurt described that technique for loading Saigas. He did say that's the fast way to load an M1A though.

[rq375]

I really like this set up, you can use the sight housing for up close, and the insert for longer ranges (get the Shaver inserts). The problem is that the first match I shot with it, when I pulled the rifle out of the cart for the third stage the tube portion was broken off, it is soldered together. Since the manufacturer wasn't interested in replacing it, I welded it with .023 wire. I wouldn't wait for one to break, clamp it up and weld it from the start.

Ok, maybe a little explanation or a picture of what broke or where you welded might be helpful...

poor soldering job that only stuck at the front corner:

[barrysuperhawk]

I really like this set up, you can use the sight housing for up close, and the insert for longer ranges (get the Shaver inserts). The problem is that the first match I shot with it, when I pulled the rifle out of the cart for the third stage the tube portion was broken off, it is soldered together. Since the manufacturer wasn't interested in replacing it, I welded it with .023 wire. I wouldn't wait for one to break, clamp it up and weld it from the start.

Ok, maybe a little explanation or a picture of what broke or where you welded might be helpful...

poor soldering job that only stuck at the front corner:

aaah, I see, it was poorly soldered and as a punishment, you blew it off your rifle with that comp...LOL

So I guess a couple of tacks on the center of each side ought to hold it?

[barrysuperhawk]

Trapr Swonson showed me the best M1A reload method at my very 1st major 3 gun match a few years ago. To see it, tune in to 3 Gun Nation this Friday or Sunday.

I'll do my best to describe it. Mags are in the carrier w/ bullets down and to the rear. Grab the magazine from the carrier with your thumb along the back of the magazine and all four fingers across the front of the mag. The end of your thumb needs to stick out beyond the magazine about one knuckle length. Pull the mag from the carrier, and as you are bringing it up to the rifle, rotate the mag so that rounds are now up and facing forward (just like the mag goes into the rifle). Remember that thumb sticking out past the edge of the mag? Use it to hit the mag release and in the same motion, hit the empty mag w/ the thumb to push it down and out of the rifle. When done properly, the empty mag will land about 4 feet in front of you. This down and forward motion puts your hand in the correct position to rock the new mag into the rifle. Lock the front of the mag, rock the rear up to latch!

This can be done w/ either bolt forward or bolt locked back.

The problem I am having is that it takes what seems like a great amount of force to push the mags gar enough up into the receiver to hook on the front. Where I found myself going awry is when pushing the mag up and into the reciever, I would miss the hook, but the mag would still latch, then fall out on the next shot. I also only have 1 factory 10 rounder, 2 factory 20's and a Chinese 20. 3 and a half mags is a awful thin for a 3 gun match, especially if you are having issues fumbling reloads...

[P.E. Kelley]

Trapr Swonson showed me the best M1A reload method at my very 1st major 3 gun match a few years ago. To see it, tune in to 3 Gun Nation this Friday or Sunday.

I'll do my best to describe it. Mags are in the carrier w/ bullets down and to the rear. Grab the magazine from the carrier with your thumb along the back of the magazine and all four fingers across the front of the mag. The end of your thumb needs to stick out beyond the magazine about one knuckle length. Pull the mag from the carrier, and as you are bringing it up to the rifle, rotate the mag so that rounds are now up and facing forward (just like the mag goes into the rifle). Remember that thumb sticking out past the edge of the mag? Use it to hit the mag release and in the same motion, hit the empty mag w/ the thumb to push it down and out of the rifle. When done properly, the empty mag will land about 4 feet in front of you. This down and forward motion puts your hand in the correct position to rock the new mag into the rifle. Lock the front of the mag, rock the rear up to latch!

This can be done w/ either bolt forward or bolt locked back.

The problem I am having is that it takes what seems like a great amount of force to push the mags gar enough up into the receiver to hook on the front. Where I found myself going awry is when pushing the mag up and into the reciever, I would miss the hook, but the mag would still latch, then fall out on the next shot. I also only have 1 factory 10 rounder, 2 factory 20's and a Chinese 20. 3 and a half mags is a awful thin for a 3 gun match, especially if you are having issues fumbling reloads...

Pop the gun out of the stock and see if the mags are still tough to stuff in the stocks magwell.

If so remove the offending material.

Patrick

[HRider]

An old M1A shooter that can make some pretty fast mag changes told me to take a ceramic rod and just smooth the front edge of the magazine (where it comes in contact with the hook as you are putting it in the rifle), not really removing any metal, just deburring it and polish the underside of the hook. I did this and can push magazines straight into my M1A. I have checked the magazines after several of these reloads and have not noticed any damage (bending, gouging, etc.). He also showed me the same technique that Bryan was talking about.

Hurley

[Bryan 45]

Barry, do the mags latch easily with the bolt locked to the rear?

[R112mercer]

An old M1A shooter that can make some pretty fast mag changes told me to take a ceramic rod and just smooth the front edge of the magazine (where it comes in contact with the hook as you are putting it in the rifle), not really removing any metal, just deburring it and polish the underside of the hook. I did this and can push magazines straight into my M1A. I have checked the magazines after several of these reloads and have not noticed any damage (bending, gouging, etc.). He also showed me the same technique that Bryan was talking about.

Hurley

I found that my aftermarket mags were much harder to get to seat after being hooked by the front hook than my factory mag. I had to really yank hard to the rear to get the mag to click in place. Inspection of the rear block that interfaces with the mag latch revealed the aftermarket mags had a pronounced angled step to them. Out came the dremel and presto, much easier to seat!