KungFuNerd Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 I'm looking at a Glock 17 that I think is a "Gen 3.5" that has only had maybe 100 rounds through it. I've owned DAO Keltecs for a long time so I am no stranger to heavy triggers (though I really like SA 1911). This Glock will be a learning platform for me and a Home Defense and occasional CCW. Would I be best served by learning the factory trigger or should I go-ahead and switch to the 3.5? I'm not scared of the lighter trigger for carry (I know how to keep my finger out of the trigger guard. Sights: I like the Sight picture with the "U" rear sight. Is a Front FO a typical pairing with that rear sight? Thanks, KF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dapribek Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 If you change the stock trigger, you may open yourself up to lawsuits if you ever have an accident or a justified shooting. That being said, the 3.5 trigger is a nice improvement. I believe the stock front sight on a 17 is .165 tall. The only site I saw with a compatible front sight is Dawson Precision with FO sights at .160 and .170. You could always call them for advice. I have a set of TRUGLO TFO's on my 35 and really like them. You might want to check them out. Since they come as a set, you do not have to worry about matching front to rear. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KungFuNerd Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 Thanks for the Sight info. As to the Trigger options....an accidental/negligent discharge leaves you responsible no matter what the gun is or whether you followed safety procedures. Justifiable shooting as well. A Shooting isn't going to ruled unjustifiable because your trigger pull was too smooth. NOW... If I rented out a Pistol or loaned it to some one (never gonna happen) and THEY have an accidental discharge, they will be responsible for it but could theoretically then come after me saying that I knowingly gave them an 'unsafe firearm' (I guess) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KungFuNerd Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 Ahh... I just read that the 3.5# adds creep to the 2nd stage of the trigger pull. Hmmm. I like crisp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeaTact Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 I had the same issue when deciding between the stock 5 lb vs lighter connector. or maybe that was my thread you were reading even with the 3.5 or OEM "-" connector, what isn't as crisp for me might still be "crisp enough"' for you or someone else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zipper046 Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 (edited) If you change the stock trigger, you may open yourself up to lawsuits if you ever have an accident or a justified shooting. Just my humble opinion (but with years of pertinent experience...) I say Rubbish...has been debated over and over...please educate yourself before throwing generalizations that skew public perception...majority lawsuits are because someone pulled the trigger not because of the trigger weight...and pulling the trigger intentionally or accidentally has to do with justifying whether to shoot or not or whether the idiot who had a ND had his finger on the trigger....thank you. For the trigger....get used to the stock trigger first. Read the threads here on the ".25 cent trigger job", and then make subtle change. The 3.5# connector isn't exactly 3.5#'s....it is more like 4 - 4.5#'s depending on the pistol...they are all slightly different. I've had some that it made a difference and others a very SLIGHT difference. Learn stock, learn trigger control, learn sight alignment, learn breathing, learn to shoot...then make changes... Edited July 10, 2011 by zipper046 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 The purpose of this forum is not to exchange legal advice over the Internet. Nor is it to discuss "match versus real world shooting." Let's limit ourselves to discussing the virtues and vices of mods to the OP's gun for match shooting, and this thread can reman open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 I'm looking at a Glock 17 that I think is a "Gen 3.5" "Gen 3.5"? I've never heard that term before. What is that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 BTW, a few years ago Glock changed the terminology for their factory part from "3.5 pound connector" to "4.5 pound connector" because they realized that was more realistic if you change the connector and do nothing else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 I'm looking at a Glock 17 that I think is a "Gen 3.5" "Gen 3.5"? I've never heard that term before. What is that? The op. is probably referring to a G3 RTF2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.roberts Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I had a 3.5 LWD connector in my 35 for a few months. Put the stock 5 lb connector in on a whim and I like it much better. Shorter reset, "crisper" break. Or as crisp as it can be for a Glock I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I've had some that it made a difference and others a very SLIGHT difference. I am one of those who think it made a significant difference over stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
427Cobra Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Buy it, keep it stone stock for 5000 rounds, then if you feel the need to modify it do so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ck1 Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I have a hard time with the 3.5 connectors, they're lighter, but also longer and a lot more mushy with a longer reset. For me, according to the clock and my targets I'm actually better off with the 5.0 connectors, as it seems heavier, but shorter and more crisp > lighter, but mushy and long. I find I like them much more in Glocks that are also equipped with reduced-power striker-springs, but to run a reduced-power striker-spring 100% reliably it usually means you have to stick to Federal primers exclusivly and either load your own ammo or buy specific match stuff like Atlanta Arms, etc that utilize those. FWIW, since I shoot mostly factory stuff and have to stick to a stock strength striker-spring in order to avoid light strike issues, I've had good results with Ghost's 4.5 Ranger connector coupled with a stronger trigger-spring... The Ranger connector is pretty much the only "in-between" connector out there and coupled with a stronger trigger-spring you end up with about the same pull-weight or less as with a 3.5 connector, but it's still shorter and crisper more like a 5.0 connector. Seems Glock has a new "dot" connector to bring the heavier Gen4 triggers back/down to the same as the Gen3's, I'd like to get a hold of one of these to check-out and see if it's as good as or even nicer than the Ranger... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimmyZip Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I like the stock trigger. Got mine without stock, switched it back. I don't know why, it just isn't as mushy. It has more of a positive feel. I've had it now for over a year, and have thousands of trigger pulls on it. I find that the sights I have, Sevignys, are the best thing that was done to this pistol. That and the RTF2 frame make this pistol my favorite. I even shoot it faster than my limited gun. But then again, that is probably because of the vast amount of time with it over my limited gun. YMMV JZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KungFuNerd Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 Thanks for the tips. My Knee Jerk reaction would have been to go straight to a lighter trigger pull which I am used to a 3-4lb pull on 1911 and don't like the 10lb trigger on my Kel-tec. I ended up buying a Gen 2 Police trade-in that came with three Mags and Night Sights. It is in excellent shape but already broken in. I wonder if it would even benefit from Polishing. The Dealer I purchased from showed my his G17 that has the NY Trigger. On the reset, you feel it pushing back against your trigger finger. Kind of interesting but the reset seemed longer The rough Gen 3 didn't feel good in the holster to me and I am pretty sure that I prefer not having the FInger Grooves so I went with the Gen 2 I went straight to the Range and had fun... put 5 drops of oil and ran 300 rounds or so. Functioned FLAWLESSLY. Once I get used to the trigger reset it feels good. My very first Group was a pretty tidy 3" from 10 yards...but of course it was about 2" to the Left and 1" down I am now a Glock fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I find I like them much more in Glocks that are also equipped with reduced-power striker-springs, but to run a reduced-power striker-spring 100% reliably it usually means you have to stick to Federal primers exclusivly and either load your own ammo or buy specific match stuff like Atlanta Arms, etc that utilize those. I run a lighter firing pin spring and I have had excellent luck (i.e. 100 percent ignition) with Winchester primers in the Winchester and Black Hills factory ammo I use for carry, though I do indeed run Federals for my reloads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zipper046 Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I've had some that it made a difference and others a very SLIGHT difference. I am one of those who think it made a significant difference over stock. The lone wolf I used made a difference. The one I got from glockworx not so much, at least compared to Lone Wolf and stock. I know Dale Rhea used to thin down and then polish up the stock 5# connector and stated he had great results with that. Depends on the manufacturer and the tolerances of your specific gun. I've had whole trigger systems in my G35 that were fantastic and dropped them into my G22 (same frame, mind you), and had less than stellar results. Not bashing it...just stating it. I still shoot my Glocks (issued by my department, so use that to keep consistent), but have learned over the years as Military and PoPo to just get good at shooting, then have some fun tweaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zipper046 Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Thanks for the tips. My Knee Jerk reaction would have been to go straight to a lighter trigger pull which I am used to a 3-4lb pull on 1911 and don't like the 10lb trigger on my Kel-tec. I ended up buying a Gen 2 Police trade-in that came with three Mags and Night Sights. It is in excellent shape but already broken in. I wonder if it would even benefit from Polishing. The Dealer I purchased from showed my his G17 that has the NY Trigger. On the reset, you feel it pushing back against your trigger finger. Kind of interesting but the reset seemed longer The rough Gen 3 didn't feel good in the holster to me and I am pretty sure that I prefer not having the FInger Grooves so I went with the Gen 2 I went straight to the Range and had fun... put 5 drops of oil and ran 300 rounds or so. Functioned FLAWLESSLY. Once I get used to the trigger reset it feels good. My very first Group was a pretty tidy 3" from 10 yards...but of course it was about 2" to the Left and 1" down I am now a Glock fan. I did the same thing when I first got my Glocks...started putting all the bells and whistles into it based on what I read in the Forums. It did not make me a better shooter, if anything, making a gun run better sometimes masks a shooters negative habits. Had a guy with a Wilson at the range...shot nice groups....give him a stock Glock and he couldn't hit water if he fell out of a boat. Wilson's can make a blind man hit A's all day long... Sounds like you're on the right track. Keep practicing, learn the trigger (pre-travel, over-travel, where yours breaks, where the reset is...etc.), learn the sights, learn to shoot well and you will be pleased with what you see in your abilities no matter what you shoot. Welcome... Z- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inkballedtarget Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 (edited) Buy it, keep it stone stock for 5000 rounds, then if you feel the need to modify it do so. This is good advice. I leave all my hd/sd guns stock.. Edited July 11, 2011 by inkballedtarget Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeaTact Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 (edited) Thanks for the tips. <snip> I am now a Glock fan. Edited July 11, 2011 by SeaTact Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddje Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I have a hard time with the 3.5 connectors, they're lighter, but also longer and a lot more mushy with a longer reset. For me, according to the clock and my targets I'm actually better off with the 5.0 connectors, as it seems heavier, but shorter and more crisp > lighter, but mushy and long. +1 to this. I believe more and more that it comes down to basic marksmanship, practice, and gun fit. I think the $50 or so for a new connector is better spent on an hour's lesson or ammo. Of course, I'm guilty of spending the $50 on the connector and ALSO spending the $50 on ammo. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeaTact Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 oh great, now I just heard there's a "dot" connector made by Glock so that Gen4 Triggers have the same weight as a Gen3. Might be Internet myth though. Which one to use as a "stock" gun now?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ck1 Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 I find I like them much more in Glocks that are also equipped with reduced-power striker-springs, but to run a reduced-power striker-spring 100% reliably it usually means you have to stick to Federal primers exclusivly and either load your own ammo or buy specific match stuff like Atlanta Arms, etc that utilize those. I run a lighter firing pin spring and I have had excellent luck (i.e. 100 percent ignition) with Winchester primers in the Winchester and Black Hills factory ammo I use for carry, though I do indeed run Federals for my reloads. I've noticed that too, it does seem like the primers in most carry stuff are more sensitive than the lower rung target FMJ the companies put out... That said, numbers/percentage-wise, compared to target FMJ, I haven't shot a whole lot of carry stuff on a reduced-power striker-spring really, and I HAVE had a couple light-strikes with my usual carry stuff (124gr +P Gold Dot JHP), so in general, never in a million years would I recommend anyone carry a Glock with a reduced-power striker-spring installed, Murphy's law has a way of, well, being Murpy's law... As far as range or match shooting goes, IMO, a Glock with a reduced-power striker-spring installed vs. a stock-strength striker-spring is just a totally different gun and should probably be discussed as such... A Glock w/ a RPSS installed feels and acts so differently when compared to a stock gun, for example: feel-wise things that seem amplified in a stock gun like second-stage creep, snatchy-ness, or mushiness when using a 3.5/4.5 connector go virtually unnoticed in a RPSS-equipped gun as the lighter spring allows one to pull right through it without same "fight" a stock spring would put up. Also RPSS-equipped Glocks can run 13lb recoil-springs as a norm, it's possible to go down as light as an 11lb recoil-spring with coils clipped off even, same just isn't true in a stock-striker-spring'd gun, with them 15lbs is safe and bomb-reliable, but depending on the particular specimen, a 13lb recoil-spring can be pushing it... Think my point is that changing the striker-spring affects the whole way the Glock design works drastically and profoundly, they become different animals, so discussing aftermarket tweaks and parts swaps without mentioning that important piece of info (striker-spring weight) just makes things confusing. So FWIW, the same super-sweet connector that is the absolute cat's ass in a RPSS-equipped Glock can feel super mushy and like near total crap in the same exact gun with a stock-weight striker spring in place. Those of us who shoot the cheapest factory FMJ they can find have to stick to the stock striker-spring to avoid light strike issues and are just doomed to a heavier trigger-pull I guess, but it doesn't bother me much, Sevigny, or Vogal would still probably whip me with an 8lb connector and the NY2 spring installed (like 16lb pull?), no matter what, it's the Indian not the arrow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 and I HAVE had a couple light-strikes with my usual carry stuff (124gr +P Gold Dot JHP) No offense - and I mean that sincerely - but you're basing your opinion on a very limited amount of shooting with one specific ammo type, loaded with one type of primer. Personally, I just flat don't trust Speer primers. I'm up to three instances now over the years of dead primers in Speer Gold Dot ammo. I don't mean light strikes, I mean multiple firing pin strikes to the point the primer looked like a meteor impact site and the primer just didn't go. We're talking inert primers in what was, supposedly, high quality, factory, self-defense ammo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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