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Ghost Rocket Vs Ultimate


jrbet83

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Are these the same connectors, expect for the overtravel tab on the Rocket? I hear a ton of good things about the Rocket but very little about the Ultimate. I have no need for the overtravel, since we run a set screw in the housing.

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Jr. I run an ultimate in my gun. The reset is nice and fast/consistent. The ghost rocket can be adjusted by the tab. You can make those suckers super light and with very little over-travel. However, if you go too far on the tab expect problems! I like the ghost ultimate out of any other connector. But it's all personal preference!

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I bought and installed the Rocket kit in my G24 and G34 and really love it... Once you get the over travel tab filed down to fit your gun (that's the tricky part) you are good to go. The directions were very easy to understand... if I could do it, anyone could. :cheers:

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  • 1 month later...

Another convert for the Ghost Rocket here. I recently purchased the kit from Brownells (includes the connector, striker/firing pin spring and trigger spring along with the orange plate and another glock armorer's tool.) Install was fairly quick and simple once I understood where they were going with it. I cannot believe how much lighter and crisp the trigger pull is - I didn't think it would be possible to make a glock feel like that. Really makes me want to try one of the Vanek, etc. drop in trigger units to see what those feel like. I shoot SSP and production and would love to be able to work the pre-travel as well, but it looks like I'm fairly limited with that right now.

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I have a Ghost Rocket on one of my Glocks and it feels great with only a bit of polishing done after fitting the connector. The ghost rocket seems to be the best option for the money. I have a fulrum trigger on my other gun and it is a bit nicer but the stock one with the Ghost Rocket is pretty darn good

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Just a quick follow up after my install:

Like I mentioned, I purchased the whole Ghost kit, which included the Rocket connector and the Wolf striker and trigger springs. I have noticed that while the reset is positive, whatever tension that causes the entire trigger to move forward and set the trigger safety is extremely light. For instance, if I shoot from reset and then slightly let up on the trigger as you would immediately after engaging your last target, the tension may or may not be strong enough to actually push the trigger all the way forward so that the trigger safety can re-engage. I'm thinking this is most likely a bi-product of the lightened trigger spring? I want to say it's borderline on rendering it unsafe - I'm entirely comfortable with the way it is, but it's definitely something I'd double check and notify anyone about prior to handing over a hot weapon.

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Just a quick follow up after my install:

Like I mentioned, I purchased the whole Ghost kit, which included the Rocket connector and the Wolf striker and trigger springs. I have noticed that while the reset is positive, whatever tension that causes the entire trigger to move forward and set the trigger safety is extremely light. For instance, if I shoot from reset and then slightly let up on the trigger as you would immediately after engaging your last target, the tension may or may not be strong enough to actually push the trigger all the way forward so that the trigger safety can re-engage. I'm thinking this is most likely a bi-product of the lightened trigger spring? I want to say it's borderline on rendering it unsafe - I'm entirely comfortable with the way it is, but it's definitely something I'd double check and notify anyone about prior to handing over a hot weapon.

What have you done to the plunger and plunger spring?

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the plunger and plunger spring help with reset. make sure your plunger is polished up really good and try stock spring. the stock spring may add a little to the overall weight, but will help with reset.

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the plunger and plunger spring help with reset. make sure your plunger is polished up really good and try stock spring. the stock spring may add a little to the overall weight, but will help with reset.

jrbet83 on the money...using a lightened plunger spring doesn't really add all that much...BUT can cause problems. Better to keep the stock spring and just polish up the plunger. On one of mine I rounded the head a bit more so when the trigger bar engages it it rolls smoothly across. The stock one has an angle around the head.

z-

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How much material are you removing when you round your plunger?

Ive noticed that the lightening strike TI plungers have a pretty severe curve to it. I rounded a factory plunger but im not sure if i could get away with removing more material.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Cardiackid,

There's no such thing as a "lighter" trigger-spring with Glocks, only stronger/heavier ones, often called a "competition trigger-spring" and/or a 6lb trigger-spring (IIRC a stock Glock trigger-spring is 5lbs)which is probably what came in you trigger kit, and they do affect (weaken) the reset strength as a side-effect of lowering the trigger-pull a bit.

The way it works is: in a Glock the trigger return spring actually pulls in the same direction you do when pulling the trigger, so when installed, the heavier/stronger trigger springs actually are helping you to pull the trigger and move the trigger-bar rearward, on trigger-reset, the striker-spring does most of the work but if a heavier/stronger trigger-spring is installed it has more weight to overcome which leads to a weaker feeling reset. The side-effect of the reset weakening with a heavier trigger-spring is much more pronounced when using a 3.5lb connector instead of a 5lb connector, and becomes further amplified if one uses a reduced power striker-spring.

IMO, this is one of a couple spring/connector "recipes" to avoid in Glocks: heavier/competition/6lb trigger-spring + reduced power striker spring = crappy, weak trigger-reset, so depending on what feels better to you, lose either the reduced power striker spring or the stronger trigger-spring and the stronger, snappy trigger-reset will return.

A lightened plunger/FPS-spring has nothing to do with it, as long as the spring has enough strength to push the plunger/FPS down and back into place to block the striker each and every single time reliably, the lighter the better, as it just means less junk to feel on take-up when the tab on the trigger-bar presses up on the plunger to lift it out of the way so the striker is free to hit a primer.

Hope this helps.

Edited by ck1
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Best light trigger spring is to go to ACE Hardware and pick up the smallest spring they have on the shelf that looks like it works. Give it a try and you will surprise yourself. And it's less than a buck.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Cardiackid,

A lightened plunger/FPS-spring has nothing to do with it, as long as the spring has enough strength to push the plunger/FPS down and back into place to block the striker each and every single time reliably, the lighter the better, as it just means less junk to feel on take-up when the tab on the trigger-bar presses up on the plunger to lift it out of the way so the striker is free to hit a primer.

Hope this helps.

Not entirely true. Just as the tab on the trigger pushes up on the plunger. The plunger pushes down on that tab on reset. For example purposes, pull the plunger out and see what happens to your reset. It's certainly a give and take. Lighter plunger spring with reduce trigger pull a little but hinder reset a little too. Heavier (stock) plunger spring adds a little to trigger pull but also helps with reset.

Edited by jrbet83
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Cardiackid,

A lightened plunger/FPS-spring has nothing to do with it, as long as the spring has enough strength to push the plunger/FPS down and back into place to block the striker each and every single time reliably, the lighter the better, as it just means less junk to feel on take-up when the tab on the trigger-bar presses up on the plunger to lift it out of the way so the striker is free to hit a primer.

Hope this helps.

Not entirely true. Just as the tab on the trigger pushes up on the plunger. The plunger pushes down on that tab on reset. For example purposes, pull the plunger out and see what happens to your reset. It's certainly a give and take. Lighter plunger spring with reduce trigger pull a little but hinder reset a little too. Heavier (stock) plunger spring adds a little to trigger pull but also helps with reset.

Nope, to reset the trigger in the Glock design there's no need to let out the trigger far enough to have the FPB plunger move down and engage. The FPB plunger is disengaged during the first portion/stage of a Glock's trigger pull, even before the striker is even fully cocked; after the trigger breaks, to reset the firing mechanism the trigger bar only needs to be let out far enough to reengage the connector (the connector's angle comes into play; and why a 5.5 connector has a shorter reset than a 4.5, steeper angle on the connector equals a heavier pull, but takes less distance to reset), during this process the FPB plunger is "trapped" in a disengaged state by the raised tab on the trigger-bar and the FPB only reengages once the trigger has been let out fully to where it's "at rest"..

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Just because it's "trapped/disengaged" doesn't mean it's not putting pressure on the tab. In fact it's putting more pressure on the tab, because the spring is fully compressed. Due to the angle on the tab, the downward pressure from the plunger assists in pushing the trigger forward. Stronger spring=more assistants (even if it's ever so slight). I see you referring to a shorter reset. Read the earlier posts. We're not talking about reset in terms of distance....plunger has nothing to do with that. We're talking about the positive push you get from trigger on reset. The feel of the trigger wanting to push your finger forward after firing. Again super easy way of testing it. Pull your plunger out. If the plunger and plunger spring do nothing, reset should remain exactly the same.

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