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jrbet83

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Everything posted by jrbet83

  1. So full story, I called SP about their newly redesigned CZ magwells. During the conversation, I was informed that my Taran basepads may not work, which I was fine with, because I was sure I could mod either the basepads or magwell to work. He told me, if you mod the magwell, I wouldn’t be able to return it (obviously). I order and get the magwell installed, and don’t like the way it fits me or the gun. Essentially the magwell doesn’t screw flush with the bottom of the frame. It only contacts a small part of the front lip of the frame/front strap and a .150” x .600” pad in the rear (by design). It touches the gun no where else. In fact “we suggest putting a drop of Loctite on the mating surface of the magwell and frame to ensure the magwell stays properly aligned.” Essentially because there’s not much clamping surface/friction, they want you to glue it to help it stay put. Being that I go from 3gun to production quite often, that didn’t really work for me, so decided I’d just send it back. No big deal, they’re a reputable company with a “satisfaction guarantee” (from their website). They had me send pictures of the magwell and now are telling me they won’t give me any type of return, because through their own words, it’s damaged and they’d have to throw it in the garbage. Pics are included, I’ll let you judge for yourself. This isn’t a knock on SP and I’m not telling you to steer clear, just understand that your definition of satisfaction guaranteed might be alittle different then theirs and that in their eyes, installing their magwell is enough to damage it beyond resalable (I never shot it and never did any reloads). Also wanted people to get a little first hand input on how their magwell works, as there’s no info out on them. I’m sure if you were going to install it and leave it, the loctite/glue would work just fine, but something to think about if you’re someone that jumps between divisions. Cool design though, being able to run factory length grip.
  2. And how many are bone stock, running stock mags with stock ammo? We’re talking about LEO firearms in this discussion. Most departments are required to run their firearms in stock configuration; one for liability reasons but also because they don’t have anyone with the ability to truly work them over. That’s why I said pretty clearly “maybe custom or tuned 2011”. I’d never carry a 2011 by choice as my duty gun, mainly because of the weight and bulk. Having said that, I’d trust my custom 6” Limited gun with 1.180 ammo, my clean tuned STI mags with gram followers any day over my current duty weapon (even though it hasn’t given me issues yet). But a bone stock STI, with stock feed lip STI mags, and stock OAL ammo? There’s quite a few other more user friendly, reliable, easier to maintain firearms that I’d rather have.
  3. STI’s aren’t the mot popular gun in competition, maybe custom built/tuned 2011’s but not stock STI’s. There’s a reason why guys spend $4k+ on a custom built 2011, $125-150 on tuned magazines, load or order custom ammo with longer OAL, case gauge all their ammo (atleast for majors), throw new springs in the gun/magazines before majors, tear their mags apart and clean them after every stage, and many other small little things that comp shooters do that the average LEO just doesn’t do or even understand. There are threads upon threads, of people having issues with their stock STI’s, and quality control issues with their STI pistols or parts. It’s going take some time before the masses consider them a reliable stock pistol. And even at that, you have to consider the biggest issue. The weight and mass of a 2011. The coolness will start to fade the more 12 hour shifts you have to carry that extra weight and that extra mass fitting into an already tight patrol car.
  4. From someone that competes/loves my custom 2011 and carries a gun for a living. I don’t understand the desire to care a 2011 as a duty gun, but to each his own.
  5. If you were to machine the receiver to accept the Ethos oblong button vs the M2 round button, could you run a 2 piece ethos latch in a M2? I see in ROTH’s custom M2 receiver, you can run either, but not sure if there’s other mods going on.
  6. Can anyone else name a 3 gun dedicated/directed shotgun (factory or gunsmith built) advertisement that doesn’t show a picture of the loading port? Good job Beretta! “We have this much bigger and better loading port...... but we don’t we show you”
  7. jrbet83

    Shadow 2 Magwell

    Other than Springer, does someone make one that allows you to run factory length grips? I’d get the Springer, but they state it only works with their base pads and not interested in running their base pads.
  8. Still working on it, it’s headed back to him in the next few days.
  9. So spend $300 on a race trigger job and then turn around and spend another $170 on a hammer, sear and disco? So essentially paying $300 to put springs in it and a little polishing?
  10. So it looks like the consensus is, it’s not good lol. Now what do I do about it? The Smith wants to ship it back to him, which is commendable and the costumer service/communication has been good. My concern is that it’s pretty obvious (through messages) he thinks it’s a good trigger job and even referred to SA as crisp when he finished it. Being that when I sent him the gun, I asked for the best production gun possible, all the bells and whistles and put no financial limitations on him. I’m worried, if he’s already sent me the best he can do, why waste more time giving him another shot? I’ve brought up the idea of discussing a refund (minus parts), which I thought was fair. He’d be out no money, but he didn’t seem to keen to that. Am I being unreasonable? What would you do/suggest? Send it back, ask for some type of refund or eat the $300?
  11. Paid a reputable smith to do his top tier, full race trigger job, with my number one priority being a crisp SA. Here’s two videos showing the trigger. Personally I think it’s worst in person than in videos, but hope to get some feedback on realistic S2 trigger expectations. First video shows slow trigger pulls, second shows quicker ones, to show it’s not just when you’re babying the trigger. Also I realize that the first part of the trigger movement is the take up (which I feel is slightly more it should be with a hand fitted short reset disconnector, but’s that’s not much a concern for me). https://streamable.com/m0kql https://streamable.com/y8muc
  12. Any recommendations on someone who can remove the wearing factory finish and put a finish on my Ti carrier?
  13. Can some example the difference in these two set ups? https://benstoegerproshop.com/cz-sp-01-shadow-2-carry-optics-23-1-complete-magazine-kit/ https://benstoegerproshop.com/cz-sp-01-shadow-2-carry-optics-3-gun-6-magazine-kit/
  14. This was the best sectional yet, which is saying alot, because our sectionals are always pretty outstanding.
  15. there you go Kurt......that's what you wanted right? Another replay from Kurt where you try and make the OP look stupid but don't actually give any useful information. Kind of your MO these days. But yes you're right, I'm a benelli expert, that's why I got on a public forum and asked for people's opinion and advice. Enjoy being up on that pedestal. But you're right, the issue is probably a non issue, being that I'm "assuming" under recoil, the shells in the tube float for just a split second, giving the shell catch a little head start. Plus with the rearward movement of the gun, the bouncing effect is softened. But that's just a guess. Just odd that different shells act so differently. And that my two stock benellis with stiffer springs don't do it at all.
  16. Reading, it's tough for you old guys I know. Have you tried cheaters, heard they help. "just worried it may be a precursor to a future problem" I'd rather figure out it's a non issue or get ahead of a possible issue before it shows it's head, not after. I will say through tinkering, in case others have this problem, I added a smaller interior spring to my shell catch (kind of like the versamax). Solved problem. Thinking maybe my new shell catch spring is a little soft (hopefully just got a bad one). It's a fine line though, too much spring pressure pinches shell against frame too much and causes a different problem.
  17. Thanks. I was more referring to the shell bouncing forward so far. Under recoil the gun runs fine, just worried it may be a precursor to a future problem. Or it's completely normal. Just odd that some shells do it and some don't.
  18. I guess you know it's a good one when two days and no opinions.
  19. When the shells released from the tube, it's going back, bouncing off the plastic that's part of the trigger assembly. It's then bouncing forward tell it hits the part of the shell catch that actually catches the shell (pretty much the front on the shell is almost touching the follower). Odd part, Remington sts and high brass don't do it, Win AA don't do it too bad, Federals do it the worst as described above. Obviously this is just in manually shell releasing/cycling. But with the shell being so far forward and the added leverage, it will lock the bolt back tell you give the follower a little push vs the STS (that's always all the way back, shell touching plastic stop on the trigger assembly) you can ride the bolt home (trying to get it to lock back and you can't do it, works everytime). Gun has brand new shell catch spring and tube spring.
  20. The longer spring is actually a lighter spring. Just for an fyi.
  21. Thank you! Makes sense.
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