jrbet83 Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Any trigger kits out there with pre-travel adjustment, that are legal for productions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Hefta Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 I put a Ghost Rocket kit in both my G34 and G24 and love them. http://www.ghostinc.com/category/35_rocket/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerba Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 (edited) I put a Ghost Rocket kit in both my G34 and G24 and love them. http://www.ghostinc.com/category/35_rocket/ The Ghost Rocket takes care of the post travel (overtravel - that's the word...Thanks Kevin...I could remember what that term was when I first posted). it is a trigger stop. Edited April 1, 2011 by racerba Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrbet83 Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 I'm looking souly for Pre-Travel adjustment. I'm be using a set screw for Post-Travel, so that's not important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin c Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Charlie Vanek sells both a complete trigger and also the separate connector/ejector housing with both pre and overtravel set screws. He's a vendor here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPatterson Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Neither the GlockTrigger.com or Vanek triggers with pretravel adjustment have been approved for Production. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrbet83 Posted April 2, 2011 Author Share Posted April 2, 2011 So what makes them illegal in production? Can you see something from the exterior or is it the fact that the trigger doesn't return to it's factory position and they're considering that changing the exterior appearance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 The tab on the trigger safety has to be cut (or ground) off for any significant reduction in pre-travel. Since the tab is visible from the exterior, that is not legal in Production. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coframer Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 (edited) So if I have a Zev Tech ejector that has an overtravel adjustment, is this legal in Production? Is the rule only for pre-travel? Edited April 3, 2011 by coframer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob D Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 You can remove a tiny bit of pre-travel on a production gun using a Vanek custom trigger housing like the ones here: http://www.vanekcustom.com/4.html but just like Mark said above, you can't take much out without having to cut a notch into the trigger safety to make it engage. FWIW I have one on my limited G35 and production G34 and I wouldn't spend the money again on a production gun. You might get 1-3mm of play out of the trigger, but it's nothing significant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zipper046 Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 (edited) +1 on Vanek's. Charlie has quality products. HOWEVER...if you learn to shoot by releasing to trigger reset, you won't have to worry about pre-travel. z- Edited April 4, 2011 by zipper046 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EkuJustice Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 +1 removing the pretravel internally is easy. Having the trigger safety work without any external change is the problem. To remove the pretravel, you have to make external mods which arnt production legal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankfan79 Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 +1 for Vanek and he does have one that is legal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92fs Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 GlockWORX sell a "production leagal" competition trigger. It has an internal modification to the triger bar which reduces pre travel. I have one in my G34. There is still some pre travel but it is much reduced. All in all, works pretty nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMC Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 I'm looking souly for Pre-Travel adjustment. I'm be using a set screw for Post-Travel, so that's not important. A 4-40 set screw in front of the trigger bar will do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92fs Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 I'm looking souly for Pre-Travel adjustment. I'm be using a set screw for Post-Travel, so that's not important. A 4-40 set screw in front of the trigger bar will do it. The problem with that is keeping the trigger safety functional without modifying it. I added a setscrew to the front of the connector housing. It worked in a very similar fashion but, I had to remove material from the trigger safety to get it to drop down. In the end I bought a new trigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EkuJustice Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 To keep the trigger safety working, there is only so much you can remove and it is very minimal to be production legal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerrywho Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 +1 removing the pretravel internally is easy. Having the trigger safety work without any external change is the problem. To remove the pretravel, you have to make external mods which arnt production legal You can remove all the pretravel without cutting the trigger. What you have to do is move the trigger break point, not just install a set screw to limit the travel. I just did my sons G34 today and it has only .180 trigger travel very short and no pretravel and .015 post travel. It did take six triggers to get it right and nine hours in the shop to make the tooling and fixtures. Now it takes about an hour to make one. He will run 300 rounds and a IDPA SSP match this weekend so it has to be right. Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92fs Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 +1 removing the pretravel internally is easy. Having the trigger safety work without any external change is the problem. To remove the pretravel, you have to make external mods which arnt production legal You can remove all the pretravel without cutting the trigger. What you have to do is move the trigger break point, not just install a set screw to limit the travel. I just did my sons G34 today and it has only .180 trigger travel very short and no pretravel and .015 post travel. It did take six triggers to get it right and nine hours in the shop to make the tooling and fixtures. Now it takes about an hour to make one. He will run 300 rounds and a IDPA SSP match this weekend so it has to be right. Jerry So, how'd you do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuyC Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 GlockWORX sell a "production leagal" competition trigger. It has an internal modification to the triger bar which reduces pre travel. I have one in my G34. There is still some pre travel but it is much reduced. All in all, works pretty nicely. I just got this one in and and very happy with the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McGlock Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 Yeah so how'd you do it Jerry! Please share some knowledge! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerrywho Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Yeah so how'd you do it Jerry! Please share some knowledge! The weekend is over and 400 rounds down the pipe and the trigger worked great. Now to your question, All the work was done on the trigger bar only. My way of doing it was to remove the plastic trigger from the metal bar (the hardest part for me) and then put the bar in the purge chamber and fire up the square wave Tig and add material to make the bar longer, Next surface grind to size, bore and radius on the mill, Shoot peen and trip down the street to heat treat the one thing I can't do. Last the standard polish and reinstall the trigger shoe. I wonder if hard chrome or some other DLC coating on it will improve it's performance. This week I will make one more and try it in my gun (it has a Edge by Glocktriggers.com in it right now) and then switch them to see if any timing problems show up. It's very little travel to get the trigger safety off and then the drop and plunger safety and then let the striker go. I will update when more testing is done. Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92fs Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Yeah so how'd you do it Jerry! Please share some knowledge! The weekend is over and 400 rounds down the pipe and the trigger worked great. Now to your question, All the work was done on the trigger bar only. My way of doing it was to remove the plastic trigger from the metal bar (the hardest part for me) and then put the bar in the purge chamber and fire up the square wave Tig and add material to make the bar longer, Next surface grind to size, bore and radius on the mill, Shoot peen and trip down the street to heat treat the one thing I can't do. Last the standard polish and reinstall the trigger shoe. I wonder if hard chrome or some other DLC coating on it will improve it's performance. This week I will make one more and try it in my gun (it has a Edge by Glocktriggers.com in it right now) and then switch them to see if any timing problems show up. It's very little travel to get the trigger safety off and then the drop and plunger safety and then let the striker go. I will update when more testing is done. Jerry Oh, Is that all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerrywho Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Yea it's a little more then just bust out the Dremel and grind some on it. I reworked the stock part to be legal for SSP. I wonder if I just made a new bar if that's legal for SSP. I have cnc press brakes and punches in my shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Yeah so how'd you do it Jerry! Please share some knowledge! The weekend is over and 400 rounds down the pipe and the trigger worked great. Now to your question, All the work was done on the trigger bar only. My way of doing it was to remove the plastic trigger from the metal bar (the hardest part for me) and then put the bar in the purge chamber and fire up the square wave Tig and add material to make the bar longer, Next surface grind to size, bore and radius on the mill, Shoot peen and trip down the street to heat treat the one thing I can't do. Last the standard polish and reinstall the trigger shoe. I wonder if hard chrome or some other DLC coating on it will improve it's performance. This week I will make one more and try it in my gun (it has a Edge by Glocktriggers.com in it right now) and then switch them to see if any timing problems show up. It's very little travel to get the trigger safety off and then the drop and plunger safety and then let the striker go. I will update when more testing is done. Jerry I want one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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