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New Glock 17


Bayou

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Bought a new Glock 17 G4 and like the other glocks that I've had I don't like the trigger. Been reading the last month or two and believe I'm gonna go with the Dawson adjustable rear and the 335, 100 front. Is that the correct option for the sight combo. I've read alot about the trigger jobs and drop ins and I'm gonna go with a drop in instead tinkering with the parts. What I can make out of this and what I have been reading is confusing. What I've been looking at is the Glocktrigger on Dawson's site the challenger and edge. I've looked at the Vanek's site and I've seen the classic and grand master but the GM is $220 and a little too pricey. The challenger sais uspsa and idpa approved and to be honest I'm just do not have any expierence in the competitions nor do I know the rules but want to try these out this year. I've used the search and read a ton but it's confusing to say the least. Opinions welcomed

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If you plan to shoot in competitions soon, I would re-read the rules for the sports, and make sure you adhere to them. Don't try to game it.

Definately change the sights, and do some trigger work. I don't think you need to go out and spoend $200 on a trigger just yet. Go get yourself this kit http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=156085&CAT=15 do a bit of polishing on the trigger parts, and be happy for a while with what you have. Spend the extra cash on ammo.

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The GM trigger from Vanek is $220 because it comes with a Jager striker which is around $75 itself. What I did with my 34 was: First I put in a 3.5 connector and this made a big difference in the trigger for only $20 or so. Then I sprung for the Vanek GM classic(Production legal by the way) and it was a huge leap forward in the trigger. I think if you just do a little bit of polishing, or shoot 1000 rounds through it, (same results) and drop in a 3.5 connector you will be pretty pleased with the trigger. If you are not impressed you are not out much money then you can drop bigger money on the Vanek.

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You should decide what division you plan to shoot in. Some trigger modifications will bump you from one division to another. Whatever you decide, if it's allowed the drop in's from Glocktrigger are well worth the money.

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I bought a competition spring kit, and polished the internals. Made a huge difference. OH, and before that, I shot it stock with the 3.5 disconnector for 3 years. The spring kit cost me $12, don't remember the disconnector, but it was about the same. I'm not doing anything else. Do this, and the other $200 would better serve you in purchasing ammo!

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Be advised that nothing you do to the Gen 4 trigger will make it feel like a Gen 3 trigger. For some reason molded the trigger housing differently adding an extra 5 degrees to the angle of the connector. This makes a Glock 4.5# connector into about a 6.5-7.0# connector. Big thread on GlockTalk about this.

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Ordered the connector and springs today and have a question regarding the rear sites. Is it the adjustable or fixed sites preferred, it appears alot of people use the fixed.

Edited by Bayou
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Ordered the connector and springs today and have a question regarding the rear sites. Is it the adjustable or fixed sites preferred, it appears alot of people use the fixed.

Fixed are a bit cheaper. It's not too hard to get them adjusted. I ordered sights from Dawson precision and the front sight came with a tool for the front install. I trashed the stock rear sight removing it with a brass punch. I was able to install the rear sight with the brass punch with no problem. I'm super ghetto cheap and used a rubber coated woodworker's clamp that I had laying around to clamp the slide to a soft piece of wood on a table. I slowly tapped the rear sight in until I though it was centered. I took the clamp, wood, punch, and hammer to the range with me and only had to adjust it once. The sight install tool looks like a nice tool to have, but I got by without it.

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Ltpatterson is right on the money. In order to add removable backstraps (abd make it smaller) they had to change the size of the housing which changed angles of springs ect. Another thing to watch out for it the trigger bar is different and from what I was told the gen 3 style will not work in the new gen 4 guns. So if any of you are like me and swap out the serated triggers on the compacts for smooth ones make sure you get a gen 4 to change out with.

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Ltpatterson is right on the money. In order to add removable backstraps (abd make it smaller) they had to change the size of the housing which changed angles of springs ect. Another thing to watch out for it the trigger bar is different and from what I was told the gen 3 style will not work in the new gen 4 guns. So if any of you are like me and swap out the serated triggers on the compacts for smooth ones make sure you get a gen 4 to change out with.

I have fired 15,000 flawless rounds from a G4 G17 with a G3 trigger in it.

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Be advised that nothing you do to the Gen 4 trigger will make it feel like a Gen 3 trigger. For some reason molded the trigger housing differently adding an extra 5 degrees to the angle of the connector. This makes a Glock 4.5# connector into about a 6.5-7.0# connector. Big thread on GlockTalk about this.

I did not know this was thinking about getting a Gen 4 but think I will just stick with my little old Gen 3 and Scherer Glock 3.5 lb trigger Connector.

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Well I put the sights on yesterday after watching the video by Dawson and it went pretty easy. It was no where near as difficult as I would have suspected and they look great, haven't shot it yet. Then last night while I sittin and figured I might as well put in the springs and connector, can't be to hard right? Well everything was going smoothly until I launched a spring cup into never, never land. Looked all last night and today to no avail, last thing I heard was the little tink when it bounced off something. No worries I already ordered some more and will give it another shot. That spring reminded me of when I started putting lowers together and losing a few springs.

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Be advised that nothing you do to the Gen 4 trigger will make it feel like a Gen 3 trigger. For some reason molded the trigger housing differently adding an extra 5 degrees to the angle of the connector. This makes a Glock 4.5# connector into about a 6.5-7.0# connector. Big thread on GlockTalk about this.

My G4 G17 has a 2# 10oz. trigger and has not had any issues in the 15,000 rounds fired.

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LPatterson, on 08 March 2011 - 08:35 AM, said:

Be advised that nothing you do to the Gen 4 trigger will make it feel like a Gen 3 trigger. For some reason molded the trigger housing differently adding an extra 5 degrees to the angle of the connector. This makes a Glock 4.5# connector into about a 6.5-7.0# connector. Big thread on GlockTalk about this.

Actually that is not true. A gen 4 gun's trigger feels exactly like a gen 3 trigger when you put in a 3rd gen trigger bar. The new trigger housing has the same connector angles as the gen 3's. Apparently, the rotten trigger in the gen 4's is due to a difference in the new trigger bar not the housing. I have 3rd gen Bobby Carver UL (best on the market btw)triggers(with 4th gen housings)in two 4th gen guns and they feel awesome! In fact, Carver and Vanek use 3rd gen tigger bars in their 4th gen trigger kits. Also I put the Glocktrigger in gen 3 and gen 4 guns and I can state with near 100% certainty that they polished the parts and that is it! The feel is identical to a stock trigger with lighter springs-no other work has been done-not impressive and a complete waste of money. Course they are packaged nicely :D

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I bought a new trigger housing with pretravel and overtravel adjustment from Vanek for $30 or whatever with shipping. I took the vanek parts out of my Gen 1 and rebuilt the Gen 4 and it works ok. It's definitely not as nice as the gen 1 was with the vanek, but it's better than the factory trigger.

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Got the spring cups in today and put everything back together with 3.5 connector, 4lb striker and 6lb trigger spring. All I can say wow what a difference that made, made a poor trigger into a good. Glad I did it but have question in regards to the rear adjustable. The rear appears to be alligned but I did not put any locktight in the the two screws yet, should I go ahead or wait and align with the punch then loctite? I'm thinkin go ahead and tighten since the rear is adjustable and make adjustments later.

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