Gun Safe

[JAFO]

Always bolt your safe down. You can't get enough weight inside to slow down a winch. Most semi professionals use cable, slings and winch for a 20 min removal.

This is the one thing I haven't done at my house (obviously it wasn't an option when I was in an apartment). I haven't done it primarily because I didn't want to drill through the floor tile. I guess I need to set a replacement tile aside, suck it up and drill.

Because I never bolted it down, my Cannon is still on it's shipping pallet. I have a friend with a flatbed Dodge and a lift-gate who works for BBQ. We borrowed a pallet jack from work and have moved it three times so far. Single steps (eg, front door thresholds) aren't that bad if you make some simple ramps. I cut two 3' sections from a 2x4 and beveled one end, then found some other blocks for bracing. Works great if you have the room to line up the jack with the ramps straight in the door. I used 2'x 2' pieces of particle board to roll the jack across the floor tiles without breaking them, since the jack had steel wheels.

I've thankfully never had a problem that required customer service, so I can't comment on that.

[Rob Boudrie]

See if the locks are made where you can get warranty service-most locks are not covered more than five years even if the box is.

Lock warranty is not the issue - lockout warranty is Even those manufacturers that warranty the lock rarely warranty against lockout - pay some one to service a lockout, or damage the safe, not covered - but they'll give you a nice new lock free of charge if it fails during the warranty period.

To read about how the self proclaimed "best in the business"warranty applies to safe lock, read the Bane article:

http://michaelbane.blogspot.com/2008/12/cannon-safe-failure.html

Although Michael finally got it open by attaching a new keypad, Canon made it very clear that they will NOT provide lockout service under their lock warranty.

[blue edge]

My brother had his home burglarized, took all his wife's jewelry, big screen tv, 1 gun that wasn't locked up in a gun safe, personal belongings, but they had 4 hrs. to mess with the safe and choose to ignore the gun safe. Ransacked the bedroom, flipped mattress's, pulled all the drawers from dressers and ransacked the cloths in the closet looking for jewelry. I went into safe mode and settled on a winchester silverado 45 I found on sale. 1100 lbs. - 18 1.5 inch bolts, seems pretty well built, the 18 1.5 inch bolts are pretty impressive. Unless it is chained to a tractor and an attempt is made to drag it from the home, it should stay in place and provide protection for valuables for many years. I don't want to move it again. Thanks for all the input on this thread.

Hey Dave, These safes were made in New Albany IN

[Team Amish 1]

I have been pretty happy with my medium sized Liberty from our local Gander Mountain. Good weight, and decent, sturdy interior. Delivery and setting up cost another $300 for a local guy with his electric stair climber.

I've only had it a few years but it's still in great shape (it better). If you buy a safe, my advisse would be to go as large as you comfortably can afford because it's cheaper than trading up in a few years.

Good luck with the one you picked.

Edited January 18, 2011 by Team Amish 1

[james57]

To address the lock situation that Rob brought up: Relockers are the internal blocks that(spring loaded) fall down and positively lock the door shut. Some brands have more than one relocker.Some have glass tube setup. It is the final thief deterent and requires locksmith opening drilling and damage to the safe door) after the relockers are tripped. Now you do need to know the relockers can be tripped by rough handling and bouncing on the floor when using a pallet jack. Changing the external lock on digital would not reset the relocker. (Our warehouse has had a few issues).Don't overlook the reason you have a safe is to try to protect your valuables until help arrives or the burgulars move on. Given time and tools no safe is thiefproof. Too much information? James

[colt22man]

Alot to learn about safes, information we all need. I wanted a poured safe room with vault door but pretty tough to complete once house is built. Building a house, pouring a basement, pour a safe room. Pretty reasonable during the construction phase. I'm bolting my safe to the floor. I like the idea of the safe being hidden behind a wall or at least behind walls with entry doors smaller than the safe. I'm also locking up all my power tools.

[pjb45]

We had a guy who made safes here in town. The business has since shut down but I listened to what he and others on this forum had to say about electronic locks. They do fail was the message I heard, might not have been the message they were trying to communicate but it is what I heard.

I went with a local company with a brand name safe and larger than I thought I needed . One old guy and a young kid. Great service. If I had the money I would have gone larger.

I went with the dail lock and never use the key option. It takes just a few moments to unlock it. Sure it can be a pain vs. an electronic key pad but the durability seems to be excellent.

Oh and this old man and kid took my old safe over to my friend's house and changed the combo for only $35!

[Gabe Athouse]

Nobody mentioned Fort Knox. I've been happy with their stuff, no complaints. I've seen 2 Fort Knox's that get opened and closed maybe 10 or 12 times a day, everyday, for years(maybe 7 or 8 now) and the door and lock still function properly.

[Mr. 10mm]

Rhino Metals has some safes that seem like a good value. Their Bighorn series has 10 gauge steel, 70 min fire protection, lifetime warranty, 700 lbs (59” H x 30” W x 24” D) for around $1000 at Costco. However, it is imported from China. Their higher end Rhino series safes appear to be made in the states, but obviously cost more money.

[-JQ-]

Keep your friends. Hire a safe mover.

[Wild Gene]

I have a Graffunder, great safe, no one is going to carry it off, and no one is going to get into it for a while. They do a first class safe and they also do vault doors and help you plan vaults.

WG

[SMSI]

I am looking for something wide and not very deep or tall. so I can see and access long guns. I already have another safe for handguns, etc. You can pack a lot of rifles in most safes, but getting to the one in the back is a pain. any recommendations?