james57

Open will drive you crazy with options ( and that is part of the fun) but check what the winners are using and replace the C-More.

I have the same trouble and it is the case feeder body needs realignment using the allen screw in the back of the feeder. See if you can move the feeder on the support tube (as the allen screw has no permanent location on the support bracket). If the plate takes off it is the alignment- if not probably clutch. Mine is just touchy with alignment.

Thanks for the Redding confirmation. Seems like the nose configuration on HAPS and #135's are the current design. I can't tell if they feed better or are more accurate, but that is what seems to be available.

Thank you for the reply. It appears Dillon has nothing to say, but then again they have about another week to reply. Seems like a nose punch should be available. However no one else on this forum seems to be having trouble??

I have seating variations (concentric and OAL) with Zero JHP #135 bullets. I believe it is the seating stem not fitting consistently with the newer tapered nose bullets. I have looked at the Dillon seating stem (both ends) and see there is very little wobble with Zero #125 (rounder nose) that I have used the past 30K rounds. Anyone looked into fixing this problem or is another stem available? Redding Comp Die the answer? I have emailed Dillon, but have not received a reply.

Hercules was purchased many year ago and is now under the ATK / Alliant group. about the same burn rate, but check your lot numbers each time for differences.

Ok so did the Brazos ejector fix the problem? We are working with a 9 Major (Open STI) having some magic going on. Moved ejector point around and Aftec too. Just not certain about that last 2-4% hitting inside the slide. So close yet not perfect. C-more Serendipity mount used as we really think we can figure this out without going to a side mount.

Nope not enough just to tap. Tried that and believe it is in the bushing area, but I hate to start filing without asking first. Thanks.

Have had several polymer grips for my 2011 frame and always have anywhere from .018-.040 thousands gap between the grip and the frame at the back. Sanding the flat areas and making certain the safety isn't hitting is not doing the job. I have had another 2011 that fit flush. While the gun runs, I am not liking the gap and always think the trigger/ disconnector parts might be compromised. What do I adjust next? Bushings? Know just enough to be dangerous. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Cabelas has five or six quality levels of quality safes 0n display. They are Liberty product with Cabelas name. Shipping charges are extra online. Instore inventory pickup is included. We will load the safe at the store end for no charge. Driveway delivery is for online only. Figure $150 per hour for bonded insured contractor to deliver. Buy bigger than you think you need and bolt the unit to the floor.

I sell safes (3-6 per day) for Cabelas-KCKKS and we use a licensed, bonded, and insured locksmith operation. They charge $150 per hour with a minimum of 2 hours. They have a stair climber and will look at your stairs ahead of your purchase. Remind yourself what you are paying for your auto mechanic per hour before you get upset with the moving costs. Also do you really want just anyone knowing you have a safe? Always bolt the unit to the floor.

I have started using my Iphone for videos of my shooting and find that what I know I am doing is not at all what the lying video shows. During the competition you do things that you never recognize / or choose to forget-but the video brings it all back. It is helping me to isolate some of my many issues and I already have the equipment.

The priority for the mfg is to put focus on to loaded ammo as the margin is better than component sales. I work in the Cabelas network and we are getting many products in weekly. However they go out as quick-even with limits on purchases. Jaxshooter is entirely correct and we will need to wait for our manufacturers to fill what they make the most profit on. Remember there are very few component manufacturers and lots of remarketers.

I purchased new in 1969 a M41 7" and it shoots almost all good ammo fine, but I wanted a 5" barrel for balance. The 5" shoots at least 5+% better than the 7", but is not reliable. I want the factory 5" to work! New barrel from Gil Hebard years back. Using red dot but it is on the barrel not slide. One works 7" and one doesn't 5". Tried different weight springs, extractor mods, new extractors,firing pin springs, 15 different ammo brands all to no avail in reliable extraction. Leaves spent case in chamber and shuts.Everything else is excellent. Rapid and timed fire possible scores on 25yd short course.CCI SV, WW High Speed the best for extraction, but not for accuracy. Measured mag lips, tried other mags and still no reliability. Least you think I am totally incompetent, I have two Open STI's that I have kept running for 6 years. Any body suggest a fix or gunsmith in the midwest that would be receptive to a reliabilty issue like this?

Warren is my friend so I need to qualify that to start. You have to have a revolver for him to be civil, but if you are nice and take him to lunch, he can be had. He is trying to make a living, besides doing individual gun work so you need to give him a break on the time line.You can find him at the Bianchi most years as a competitor too.

I shoot Open Division and my right knuckle is enlarged from a misspent youth..Anyway I find a single side safety works for me as my safety is moved before I switch hands in a weak hand program. Finger out, gun pointed downrange-just like any draw or movement. I can't say it is just for cleaning, as that is a small thing, but I believe in consistent hand placement and comfort.

I set up the Hornady 9mm bullet feeder die with the LNT tubes. Everything worked fine and I was happy with the inexpensive program until it was pointed out to me the overall time saving was zero. The same time I use filling the bullet tubes transferred to setting the bullet on the case is the same. Also the ceiling limited my tube lengths to about 60 bullets before the changeover. I do think the entire Hornady bullet feeder may be the hot ticket for 200 bullets at a time, but then again the primer fill is limited to 100. This is set up on a Dillon 650 with case feeder. I enjoy the idea of faster, but I am rethinking the overall reloading process-YMMV.

I went to their web page and don't see the 90 Quinn II available. What is the deal?

Angus Hobdell in Scottsdale is Ghost Holster in the US. See vendor list for a link. Amadini is the mfg and they are good to work with.(-look on your holster)Parts are tough in any case as I am looking to change my old winged belt adapter and have waited three weeks for a contact from Ghost holster USA.

Well I am guessing you didn't like the bearing /washer accessory. Any comments as I am getting ready to order soon. Your thoughts are appreciated from an Open shooter with not much extra case space. James

I am in Olathe, Kansas and shoot at the Bullet Hole in Overland Park Fridays and also at Pioneer in Raytown on Tuesday nights. Lots of Dillon 650's around if you want to show up at one of these places and ask. I have one that is about thirty days old and it is great so far. I am experimenting with the Hornady bullet feeder die now. You are welcome to give me a pm and maybe we can get together. I had an older LNL with wire setup and currently sell Hornady LNL at Cabelas. James McComas

I am really looking forward to your posting results as I am converting my back up gun to 9mm major. Looks like a large undertaking and I agree a Front Sight article would be nice. Maybe a mfg. might offer some support? James

The Cabelas thumbler is made by Berry Mfg and has the Cabelas warranty as well. The clear lid is nice too. Put a antistatic dryer sheet in with your media to assist in removing dust and carbon particles. Watch for sales or Club Card Events for lower prices.

To address the lock situation that Rob brought up: Relockers are the internal blocks that(spring loaded) fall down and positively lock the door shut. Some brands have more than one relocker.Some have glass tube setup. It is the final thief deterent and requires locksmith opening drilling and damage to the safe door) after the relockers are tripped. Now you do need to know the relockers can be tripped by rough handling and bouncing on the floor when using a pallet jack. Changing the external lock on digital would not reset the relocker. (Our warehouse has had a few issues).Don't overlook the reason you have a safe is to try to protect your valuables until help arrives or the burgulars move on. Given time and tools no safe is thiefproof. Too much information? James

I sell gunsafes for Cabela's in KCKS, so I am not in your area to sell-but maybe this will help you out? I sell four to six per day and keep over 60+ in our store. Freight for one safe is an issue-be prepared for all the extra charges. Liberty has five Cabela's branded levels. I have sold Cannon, Stack On, and Champion and still do on special buys. Liberty is very good to work with. You will pay for what you get- your call on how thick the shell, what brand of lock, how much firerock, and how the lifetime warranty will work.Safe Mfg have many different levels- be sure to compare apples to apples. Safes are generally either 60 or 72 inches high. 72 makes it much more difficult to move as they get top heavy. Watch for return shipping charges on warranties. See if the locks are made where you can get warranty service-most locks are not covered more than five years even if the box is. By the way, one fire will destroy the firerock lining. Many safes are offshore mfg, just more difficult to deal with. Always bolt your safe down. You can't get enough weight inside to slow down a winch. Most semi professionals use cable, slings and winch for a 20 min removal. PM me if I can answer any questions. James