mossburg 930

[ChuckS]

I had an occasional hangup when I first installed my Nordic tube. Using the law of "grind on the cheapest part", all I did is break the edge of the factory follower and I had no further problems. I have the +5 tube with the Nordic Clamp, a Nordic spring cut near the short limit, and the Mossy factory follower. Works fine.

Later,

Chuck

[ben b.]

I beveled the top of my Mossy tube because the follower was hanging up at the junction.

Nordic had a booth at the AR15/rockcastle Pro/am. I bought the Nordic follower there and the Rep installed it. He was real particular about how he bent the end of the spring that goes in the follower, he said that the spring can cause the follower to tilt and hang up.

Just another piece of info.

David E.

That is interesting, thanks. I'll have a look.

[DWFAN]

I've got the Nordic follower in mine and the gun runs. It wont cycle by hand unless I do it hard and fast, but it cycles when shooting. No hangup's when loading either.

Would be interested to see how the Rep bent your spring David.

[Matt Griffin]

You don't need to dremel, I just rolled a sheet of 80 grit sandpaper into a cone. Voila, tube chamfering tool, followed up with 180 grit and you're golden. The Nordic tube already has a slight bevel but the Moss tube is a hard corner.

Matt

[villageidiot]

I beveled the top of my Mossy tube because the follower was hanging up at the junction.

Nordic had a booth at the AR15/rockcastle Pro/am. I bought the Nordic follower there and the Rep installed it. He was real particular about how he bent the end of the spring that goes in the follower, he said that the spring can cause the follower to tilt and hang up.

Just another piece of info.

David E.

Could you describe how it was bent? I have tried a couple different ways and have not been happy. The stock follower works okay, but the Choate one hangs up occasionally.

Edited December 8, 2011 by villageidiot

[Outsydlooknin75]

I beveled the top of my Mossy tube because the follower was hanging up at the junction.

Nordic had a booth at the AR15/rockcastle Pro/am. I bought the Nordic follower there and the Rep installed it. He was real particular about how he bent the end of the spring that goes in the follower, he said that the spring can cause the follower to tilt and hang up.

Just another piece of info.

David E.

Could you describe how it was bent? I have tried a couple different ways and have not been happy. The stock follower works okay, but the Choate one hangs up occasionally.

I just run a stock follower after the choate would hang up.

Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk

[Nuke8401]

Would be interested to see how the Rep bent your spring David.

Tuff to get good shots of the spring.

You can kind of tell if the follower is tilting by pushing it in the center with your finger, it will always go to one side but you can tell when the spring is really pushing it to tilt.

I have and use the Nordic follower;

Pros: -longer than the stock follower, less likely to tilt.

- teflon coated, really slick

Cons: -Some sharp leading edges that could catch on the transition, so far no problems.

- teflon coated, can't smooth out the sharp edges without breaking through the coating.

I smoothed the leading edge of my stock follower and it worked fine, I just went for the Nordic.

The stock one being shorter than the Nordic may be more prone to tilting.

I would have no problem going back to the stock one.

David E.

Edited December 8, 2011 by Nuke8401

[five six]

From the Nordic reps, they tell you to turn the spring down 90 degrees as pictured above. They also know that lighter spring pressure will help issues with shells not coming out of the extension. Its kind of counter-intuitive but lighter spring pressure (cutting off spring coils) works. they recommend 16-12 on most guns, but said 10" past the extension ends up working. I ended up cutting mine inch by inch till it cycled every time.

Oh if some how you end up with like 6" of spring and tons of 1" shavings, they will replace your spring. Nordic reps are good guys.

[forestninja]

I have followed this thread from the start, and seeing all the great mods ya'll are doing and the good reviews I've read ,I thought I would like to try a 930 in 3 gun.I was able to buy a 930 combo, very lightly used , for cheap,my 28" barrel is at Rose Action Sports being cut to 24", and all my Nordic Components goodies are on my Midway wish list and in the hands of my wife and kids--life is good! Being a tinkerer at heart, I figured I would do a little work on smoothing up and polishing a few things. Every thing is still good---eccept in the process of lighting and smoothing up the saftey, I removed a part call the "saftey buffer" ,and twisted off one of the screws that hold it in [red loctite]. This part is not shown on the parts breakdown, so I e-mail Joe at Mossberg. He informed me it was a restricted part and I would need a gunsmith to order the part for me. Seeing as I don't know of a licensed gunsmith in my area, I need someone to get this part and the 2 screws that hold it in and sell them to me. I drilled the broken screw out and tapped the hole, but I would prefer the original. Let me know if someone can help and thanks ahead of time.

[forestninja]

I answered my own question--- Steve Rose is trying to get the saftey buffer for me!

Thanks anyway

[Beers78n9]

Does anyone know if Arredondo's Benelli Carrier Release Bar will work with the 930?

[Matt Griffin]

So here's my next Big Dumb Idea: Seeing these barrel-clamp style front sight systems, I'm thinking I could get one of those and use it to block the ports on my 28" barrel, thus making it legal for Limited. With a rail on the back I could effectively switch from Limited to Open by simply removing the sights and putting on a dot (without worrying about a Tecloader initially.) Two questions:

1. Would the clamp material be the same toughness as "shim stock" with which others have blocked the ports?

2. Who makes these sights? I've seen sets north of $150 but that's a bit steep. Doesn't Truglo or Hiviz have an offering?

Thanks,

Matt

[sparks1]

So here's my next Big Dumb Idea: Seeing these barrel-clamp style front sight systems, I'm thinking I could get one of those and use it to block the ports on my 28" barrel, thus making it legal for Limited. With a rail on the back I could effectively switch from Limited to Open by simply removing the sights and putting on a dot (without worrying about a Tecloader initially.) Two questions:

1. Would the clamp material be the same toughness as "shim stock" with which others have blocked the ports?

2. Who makes these sights? I've seen sets north of $150 but that's a bit steep. Doesn't Truglo or Hiviz have an offering?

Thanks,

Matt

I heard a guy talking of using the mag. extension clamp to block the ports on a 930 at my last shoot. Kinda intrigued me, but wondered if the clamp would take the gas, etc. I've got a 930 ordered but no short barrel yet. Thought about the clamp.

[Matt Griffin]

So here's my next Big Dumb Idea: Seeing these barrel-clamp style front sight systems, I'm thinking I could get one of those and use it to block the ports on my 28" barrel, thus making it legal for Limited. With a rail on the back I could effectively switch from Limited to Open by simply removing the sights and putting on a dot (without worrying about a Tecloader initially.) Two questions:

1. Would the clamp material be the same toughness as "shim stock" with which others have blocked the ports?

2. Who makes these sights? I've seen sets north of $150 but that's a bit steep. Doesn't Truglo or Hiviz have an offering?

Thanks,

Matt

I heard a guy talking of using the mag. extension clamp to block the ports on a 930 at my last shoot. Kinda intrigued me, but wondered if the clamp would take the gas, etc. I've got a 930 ordered but no short barrel yet. Thought about the clamp.

That was the shim stock solution, cut a square of shim stock and use the extension clamp to hold it down, plus some JB Weld. I'm wondering if I can do a less-permanent and more-efficient double purposing of a tall iron sight.

Matt

[EkuJustice]

I think the high sights are more of a hinderance than a help on a shotgun. I have found I cant get near the cheekweld as I can with a straight bead sight. I shoot the bead faster than anything including a dot

[five six]

Let me chime in here on sights:

Per the LPA distributor, Jay at Precision Sights (http://www.precisionsights.com/),

If you are using a rail system + the spx rear sight aka BAR11W , you can use the front sight on a stock 18.5" spx SG4 (silver soldiered) or SG6 (barrel band)

This setup will give you a higher sight plane similar to the stock spx model.

In terms of the Hi viz and other products, I've called around to find something that will work with the ghost ring rear to give me an elevated sight plane, and nothing exists that I've heard of (I'm no expert).

If you do happen to order anything LPA from Jay At precision, let him know Steven Ching from San Francisco referred you, he'll probably give you a discount.

Edited December 14, 2011 by five six

[Matt Griffin]

I think the high sights are more of a hinderance than a help on a shotgun. I have found I cant get near the cheekweld as I can with a straight bead sight. I shoot the bead faster than anything including a dot

I understand, but I put a dot on my 930 and it felt much, much more natural to me. To each his own when it comes to cheek weld.

[RED357]

Hey all. Just a little update on ordering my 24" non-ported barrel and experience with my 930 so far. I just ordered my 24" barrel today. I sent Joe a e-mail sunday with all my information except for payment info. A rep called Monday while I was out and left a message confirming my order and even gave me a description of what I was getting and a order number. I called back Tuesday because they were closed when I got the message on Monday. I gave the order number left in the message and they pulled it right up and took my payment info. I was told I should receive my barrel in 7 to 15 days. Since sending my first e-mail to Joe, I have seen the most organazation in this process with Mossberg.

Now, as far as the sight issue I am reading about now, I will have to wait until I get my new barrel to check out POI compared to POA on slugs. However, I can tell you that as far as clay shooting goes with the 28" waterfowler barrel, I love it. I was shooting clays Saturday that were thrown from a Do-All white wing automatic thrower. If you have any experience with these, you know they throw the clays at super fast speed. I had no probs busting these zippers with cheapo Walmart Federal bulk 2 3/4" 8 shot shells. The gun cycled flawlessy and my clay shooting buddies were all very intrigued with my 3-gun belt and the way I was weak hand reloading from the shell caddies.....lol. I am happy with the 28" barrel as far as accuracy goes for a shotgun barrel and overall very happy with the 930. Gonna see what kind of hassel I will be in for to swap barrels back and forth between the 24" for multi-gun and the 28" for clays and birds. The problem may be in taking the mag extension on and off. If that proves to be too much of a hassel, I will prob sell the 28" barrel as mentioned before and just keep my 1100 for birds and clays. If it doesn't prove to be too difficult swapping the 930 barrels, then I will prob just keep the 28" barrel and sell the 1100 to make more room in the gun cab for another AR...lol....As soon as my new barrel and extension gets here, and I have time to test everything out, I will let those of you who have expressed an intrest in buying the 930 barrel know what I decide....Thanks for you patience.....Merry Christmas and Good Shooting.

Oh...and to keep those of you who are seeing this thread for the first time from having to read all the way back thru it, this is Joe's e-mail at Mossberg.

Zakher Joseph <JZakher@maverickarms.com>

Edited December 14, 2011 by RED357

[RED357]

I think the high sights are more of a hinderance than a help on a shotgun. I have found I cant get near the cheekweld as I can with a straight bead sight. I shoot the bead faster than anything including a dot

I am partial to the beads too. My 870 is dead on with slugs and the beads, at least out to 50 yds. Never failed to bust a milk jug full of water yet...

[EvilBetty]

The day I got my 930 I began shoving dummy rounds in it to get the feel for loading and test out the action. I was having some issues, like shells being doubled up in it or not ejecting. This was all cycling by hand. The next day I took it to the indoor range the day I got it. I put 25 shells through it without a hitch. I figured it just needed some break in.

This week I got all my Nordic parts and the problems with dummy rounds continue.

Firstly I now understand this failure to load from the magazine tube with a full 9 round tube. First I sanded down the inner rim of the OEM tube that mates up to the Nordic tube. It didn't seem to make any difference. Instead of modifying the Nordic spring right off the bat, I had an extra Choate spring. First I tried it full length, about 9 inches exposed. First two rounds stuck. Had to manually eject them. Then I cut it down 4 inches. 1st round was sticking. I cut down another 4 inches. Still the first round is sticking. I'll mess with this later.

I find it odd how sensitive this shell stop could be to spring pressure. Benny have you looked into why this is sticking this way?

Secondly, when I do finally getting it feeding, I'd say once every 3 rounds, it seems to double feed. The only way I can seem to clear this is to use something to tuck the second round back into the magazine tube. Not sure what's causing this either.

And also every 2 to 3 rounds won't eject, instead dropping the round back on top of the round that just popped onto the carrier from the magazine tube.

And now due to I think the trimming of the magazine spring too much, the last round will occasionally pop onto the carrier, but the bolt will hold open.

Anyone have any suggestions for this?

Edited December 16, 2011 by EvilBetty

[RED357]

The day I got my 930 I began shoving dummy rounds in it to get the feel for loading and test out the action. I was having some issues, like shells being doubled up in it or not ejecting. This was all cycling by hand. The next day I took it to the indoor range the day I got it. I put 25 shells through it wihtout a hitch. I figured it just needed some break in.

This week I got all mmy Nordic parts and the problems with dummy rounds continue.

Firstly I now understand this failure to load from the magazine tube with a full 9 round tube. First I sanded down the inner rim of the OEM tube that mates up to the Nordic tube. It didn't seem to make any difference. Instead of modifying the nordic tube right off the bat, I had an extra Choate spring. First I tried it full length, about 9 inches exposed. First two rounds stuck. Had to manually exject them. Then I cut it down 4 inches. 1st round was sticking. I cut down another 4 inches. Still the first round is stcking. I'll mess with this later.

I find it odd how sensitive this shell stop could be to spring preasure. Benny have you looked into why this is sticking this way?

Secondly, when I do finnally getting it feeding, I'd say once ever 3 rounds, it seems to double feed. The only way I can seem to clear this is to use something to tuck the second round back into the magazine tube. Not sure what's causing this either.

And also every 3 to 4 rounds won't eject, instead dropping the round back on top of the round that just popped onto the carrier from the magazine tube.

And now due to I think the trimming of the magazine spring, the last round will occationally pop onto the carrier, but the bolt will hold open.

Anyone have any suggestions for this?

I am no expert...But as far as the last problem of the bolt locking open with the shell on the carrier, I had the same thing with a Remi one time...I had cut the mag spring down too much. So, there was not enough force behind the last shell to trip the bolt release. Looks like you may have cut too far on the srping. As far as the other problems, If you are experiencing all of this from hand cycling dummy rounds. I would suggest doing your spring and tube mods at the range where you can test by firing live rounds. Every semi-auto I have ever had has been finicky about hand cycling including my new 930. You have to do it with the right amount of speed and force every time or it doesn't work right. I have encountered the double feed issue and it usually occurs when speed loading and not getting the shell far enough to catch in the tube like it should. Opening the loading port on my 930 has made the double feed non-existent. The only idea I have about the rounds not ejecting is you may have used the dummies to the point that the edges of the shell are worn or dinged and not allowing the ejector to catch like it should. That's just a theroy, though.

[EvilBetty]

I am no expert...But as far as the last problem of the bolt locking open with the shell on the carrier, I had the same thing with a Remi one time...I had cut the mag spring down too much. So, there was not enough force behind the last shell to trip the bolt release. Looks like you may have cut too far on the srping. As far as the other problems, If you are experiencing all of this from hand cycling dummy rounds. I would suggest doing your spring and tube mods at the range where you can test by firing live rounds. Every semi-auto I have ever had has been finicky about hand cycling including my new 930. You have to do it with the right amount of speed and force every time or it doesn't work right. I have encountered the double feed issue and it usually occurs when speed loading and not getting the shell far enough to catch in the tube like it should. Opening the loading port on my 930 has made the double feed non-existent. The only idea I have about the rounds not ejecting is you may have used the dummies to the point that the edges of the shell are worn or dinged and not allowing the ejector to catch like it should. That's just a theroy, though.

Thanks for your reply.

My Remington 1100 was never this finicky, though it was a well broken in gun. I could use the stock 4 round spring, or a full length Choate spring and it would feed all day. Changing spring length only fine tuned the loading / feed pressure to my liking. The task of checking and practicing manual cycling should be flawless no matter where it is performed in my opinion. I'm sure the gun will operate fine at the range or field, but the tasks of racking the first round, unloading, or clearing a malfunction should work flawless anywhere you practice it.

I too had the problem of double feeds on the first round when I first got it, also not seating that last round into the tube far enough, but this is happening on the 2nd, 3rd, etc.

I too am thinking my well used dummy rounds might be the cause of the ejection issues, I've got some in the bottom of the box that have rarely, if ever, been used. I'll check it out again.

[ChuckS]

The day I got my 930 I began shoving dummy rounds in it to get the feel for loading and test out the action. I was having some issues, like shells being doubled up in it or not ejecting. This was all cycling by hand. The next day I took it to the indoor range the day I got it. I put 25 shells through it without a hitch. I figured it just needed some break in.

Evil,

I found that once the rims on the dummy rounds get beat up, they become somewhat finicky when hand cycled and could lead you to work on non-existent problems. I almost trimmed my Nordic spring too short because of this. Fortunately I was removing small enough sections that I realized that something other than spring pressure was at fault. I just use the dummies for loading practice and use the button to release them. So far, I have yet to have any issues with live ammo.

Later,

Chuck

[sdm74]

I am a total shotgun newb. What does it mean to hand cycle?

[TMC]

I am a total shotgun newb. What does it mean to hand cycle?

To operate the bolt "by hand" to check if the gun will feed, chamber and eject rounds.