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mossburg 930


benny hill

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That's what I'd expect at that distance, 30 ft is only 10 yards.

You’re way off

Assuming your POI is 6" high at 30 ft (looking at your target) it would be 3 times that at 30 yds or 18" high. Take that out to 50 yds and it would be more like 26" high at 50yds.

SO 6" high at 50yds is a little different that 2 ft.

David E.

That's about what mine shots, about 12" high at 25 yds and 24" at 50 yds. This year I just aimed at the bottom of the target which was fine until I ran into targets that were not standard silhouettes. I am now in the process of adding a taller front sight (about 0.315") and shortening the rear one it came with (0.062"). The plan is to zero it by moving the rear sight forward and back.

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Odd Mossberg would be letting these guys leave the factory setup for taking out a turkey at 30 yards, shooting so high.

Not really a suprise that it shoots high as long as the factory sights have enough adjustment to get on target. If not, that would be something I would expect the factory to adress/fix.

If the slugs are pounding your cheek your length of pull may be too short! I don't shoot the 930 but I added a kick ezee 3/4" and the stars shined brighter! no more cheek hurt. A good fit shotgun is pleasant to shoot one that's too short is going to work you over dude and your POI will change. Later,

On second thought I'm going to try a longer LOP. As long as it doesn't hinder a rapid mount it might solve my problem. I was thinking in terms of an AR with nose to irons cheek weld, maybe backing off will help.

David E.

Edited by Nuke8401
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As an update for Nordic Tube users.

Beveling (in my case a Dremel polished bevel) the front end of the factory Mossberg tube will allow you to hand cycle using the Nordic Tube.

Thanks to Nordic Comp for finding the fix with an indirect thanks to Benny Hill because he's the one who told them how he fixes it.

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Ah so the issue was that round 5 was hanging up on the lip end of the OEM tube, preventing the spring from popping out a round?

Nice simple fix.

I haven't had any issues with mine during fire, but when hand cycling dummy rounds (Remington Dummy Rounds) I'm getting a LOT of double feeds. Need to get that sorted.

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As an update for Nordic Tube users.

Beveling (in my case a Dremel polished bevel) the front end of the factory Mossberg tube will allow you to hand cycle using the Nordic Tube.

Thanks to Nordic Comp for finding the fix with an indirect thanks to Benny Hill because he's the one who told them how he fixes it.

Any pics of that?

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My sights look kinda like this... except the rear is red and the front is yellow. I tried adding another magnetic yellow tube in front of the rear sight but it was well under existing rear sight.

182294.jpg

The rear is adjustable. I would have spent more time with it but I was with a friend and he just wanted to shoot.

I've got my LM coming from Midway Tuesday. I head back out after that and test again.

What brand/model are these sights?

thanks!

.jj

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My sights look kinda like this... except the rear is red and the front is yellow. I tried adding another magnetic yellow tube in front of the rear sight but it was well under existing rear sight.

The rear is adjustable. I would have spent more time with it but I was with a friend and he just wanted to shoot.

I've got my LM coming from Midway Tuesday. I head back out after that and test again.

What brand/model are these sights?

thanks!

.jj

I think those were Williams firesights... it was just a picture I pulled off for example from Google.

After a bit of digging, I found the sights on the turkey barrel are Allen "Turkey-Taker Fiber Optic" sights.

ACS1570.jpg

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As an update for Nordic Tube users.

Beveling (in my case a Dremel polished bevel) the front end of the factory Mossberg tube will allow you to hand cycle using the Nordic Tube.

Thanks to Nordic Comp for finding the fix with an indirect thanks to Benny Hill because he's the one who told them how he fixes it.

Any pics of that?

Sorry, I'm really bad about taking pics when I do fixes like this. It's really simple though if you've got at least some basic experience polishing with a Dremel. It really did not require much.

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As an update for Nordic Tube users.

Beveling (in my case a Dremel polished bevel) the front end of the factory Mossberg tube will allow you to hand cycle using the Nordic Tube.

Thanks to Nordic Comp for finding the fix with an indirect thanks to Benny Hill because he's the one who told them how he fixes it.

Any pics of that?

Sorry, I'm really bad about taking pics when I do fixes like this. It's really simple though if you've got at least some basic experience polishing with a Dremel. It really did not require much.

Just not sure the area you are talking about. Is there a lip your beveling off?

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As an update for Nordic Tube users.

Beveling (in my case a Dremel polished bevel) the front end of the factory Mossberg tube will allow you to hand cycle using the Nordic Tube.

Thanks to Nordic Comp for finding the fix with an indirect thanks to Benny Hill because he's the one who told them how he fixes it.

I found a similar thing on my own a few months ago (IIRC) and the guy I talked to at Nordic back then agreed. I did also switch to a different follower.

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As an update for Nordic Tube users.

Beveling (in my case a Dremel polished bevel) the front end of the factory Mossberg tube will allow you to hand cycle using the Nordic Tube.

Thanks to Nordic Comp for finding the fix with an indirect thanks to Benny Hill because he's the one who told them how he fixes it.

Any pics of that?

Sorry, I'm really bad about taking pics when I do fixes like this. It's really simple though if you've got at least some basic experience polishing with a Dremel. It really did not require much.

You beveled from the inner edge to the outer, correct? Forgive my MS Paint sillz... very exaggerated.

post-32136-0-58962200-1323294286_thumb.j

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Thanks alot fellas

Wanted to add: is there a aftermarket forearm retainer piece that's not made plastic? Mine was broken from factory. Wating on a new one now

Edited by sdm74
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I have a question about length of the barrel. Does 20" vs 24" make a significant difference?

I was thinking of just cutting down the barrel to remove the ports. I read that this leaves the barrel at 20". It would mean the nordic mag tube would be longer than the barrel. Is this a bad thing?

Also what is the thread pitch for the choke systems?

thnx

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As an update for Nordic Tube users.

Beveling (in my case a Dremel polished bevel) the front end of the factory Mossberg tube will allow you to hand cycle using the Nordic Tube.

Thanks to Nordic Comp for finding the fix with an indirect thanks to Benny Hill because he's the one who told them how he fixes it.

Any pics of that?

Sorry, I'm really bad about taking pics when I do fixes like this. It's really simple though if you've got at least some basic experience polishing with a Dremel. It really did not require much.

You beveled from the inner edge to the outer, correct? Forgive my MS Paint sillz... very exaggerated.

Yes.

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I have a question about length of the barrel. Does 20" vs 24" make a significant difference?

I was thinking of just cutting down the barrel to remove the ports. I read that this leaves the barrel at 20". It would mean the nordic mag tube would be longer than the barrel. Is this a bad thing?

Also what is the thread pitch for the choke systems?

thnx

It's closer to 22 inches if you cut a 28. Add an extended choke and you are close to a 24 with flush fitting chokes.

Sent from my PG06100 using Tapatalk

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personally think these things are worthless.

My sights look kinda like this... except the rear is red and the front is yellow. I tried adding another magnetic yellow tube in front of the rear sight but it was well under existing rear sight.

The rear is adjustable. I would have spent more time with it but I was with a friend and he just wanted to shoot.

I've got my LM coming from Midway Tuesday. I head back out after that and test again.

What brand/model are these sights?

thanks!

.jj

I think those were Williams firesights... it was just a picture I pulled off for example from Google.

After a bit of digging, I found the sights on the turkey barrel are Allen "Turkey-Taker Fiber Optic" sights.

ACS1570.jpg

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Hey folks, do any of you who have bought a new barrel want to sell your 24 or 28 ported barrel?

Here's the story.

I took a 930 SPX off the prise table at the nationals and I'm setting it up for my daughter. She's small so an 18-20" barrel is better than the 24", every little bit helps. The ghort rings sights on the SPX barrel are cumbersom and really too high for her. I though about buying the 24" barrel but then I'm back to a longer gun like mine.

Let me know if you'd like to unload (hopefully cheap :D ) the ported barrel you have lying around to help get a junior set up

Thanks!

I may be interested in selling the 28" barrel off of mine. Gonna try it out on clays this weekend against my 1100. If it does as well as my 1100, I am probably gonna keep it and sell the 1100. If not, I am gonna keep the 1100 for clays and bird hunting and just sell the mossy barrel. If I decide to sell it, does 100 bucks sound ok?...PM me if you are interested.

Thanks,

Rob

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I have a question about length of the barrel. Does 20" vs 24" make a significant difference?

I was thinking of just cutting down the barrel to remove the ports. I read that this leaves the barrel at 20". It would mean the nordic mag tube would be longer than the barrel. Is this a bad thing?

Also what is the thread pitch for the choke systems?

thnx

A 28" barrel can be cut to 24" and remove the ports. A 26" can clean up at 22". Also, the reamer profile controls the choke tubes. A Mossberg is the same as the WinChoke. The thread pitch is the same as a RemChoke, but, the thread placement on the tube is different.

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Post 32 this link: My link

As an update for Nordic Tube users.

Beveling (in my case a Dremel polished bevel) the front end of the factory Mossberg tube will allow you to hand cycle using the Nordic Tube. Thanks to Nordic Comp for finding the fix with an indirect thanks to Benny Hill because he's the one who told them how he fixes it.

I'm not on this band wagon, there is plenty/full spring tension on the shells in the tube. Put 5 in and check the tension. If shells are catching the transition it would affect not only hand loading but loading when shooting and when unloading. Yes I beveled my transition when installing the Nordic tube, but it was because shells were catching the transition occasionally when manually unloading the mag tube during dry fire.

My 930, along with at least one other here, would not hand cycle with only the stock moss tube. I believe the hand cycling issue is due to spring pressure (which can be heavier with the Nordic if cut long) and friction on the shell catch. Cutting the spring on the short end of Nordic directions and polishing the shell holder made mine easy to hand cycle/load.

Your results may vary.

Of course my opinion is worth exactly waht you pay for any internet opinion.

Hope all enjoy your 930s!

David E.

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Mine hand cycled perfectly fine with the Choate extension it came with from the factory. No go with the Nordic until beveling. Again the recommendation came from Nordic which came to them by way of Benny supposedly.

Also my spring length is the Nordic recommended minimum and I actually like the fact I didn't have to polish my shell catch. Polishing the shell catch may introduce another type of malfunction imo.

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I beveled the top of my Mossy tube because the follower was hanging up at the junction.

Nordic had a booth at the AR15/rockcastle Pro/am. I bought the Nordic follower there and the Rep installed it. He was real particular about how he bent the end of the spring that goes in the follower, he said that the spring can cause the follower to tilt and hang up.

Just another piece of info.

David E.

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