WildWest N AZ Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Ive had 2 triggers go full auto so far on me? Someone told me piercing primers can cause this to happen, but 2 times in less than 800 hunderd rds with factory fed ammo I doubt it? would there be anything else other than trigger bar, connector ect that would cause this problem? Would a plunger spring be bad Im out of ideas on this? Ive looked at stricker no blackening of tip the tip is still smooth with a little wear on either side, stricker springs and cups look just fine. Also before it went full auto on me it was having a failure to reset all the way pretty consistant 1 out 10 pulls, and also if it did reset just after the reset the trigger its self would stick. Ive cleaned the complete trigger out with brake clean just to make sure that maybe something tiny got stuck some place it didnt belong but seems that wasnt the case? Out of ideas on what might be the main cause of this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Trigger parts. Not stock, huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diehli Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Pull out the striker, extractor, striker tunnel liner, etc. and spray the crap out of it with brake cleaner. Stuff in the top end not allowing the striker to move as it needs to would be my guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
open17 Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Tell us what you did. I've never seen a box stock Glock go full auto yet. (except a G18--what a hoot!) Any polishing? Especially the face of the striker or the end of the trigger bar? Change the connector? You don't happen to have an aftermarket overtravel stop installed do you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWest N AZ Posted September 13, 2010 Author Share Posted September 13, 2010 (edited) It was done by a company, and I leave it at that. The trigger bar/connector has a billet like shine on it, and the striker moves freely back and forth in slide not stuffed in it by any means Edited September 13, 2010 by WildWest N AZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Hello: Replace the trigger assemble with a stock one. I think they polished things a little too well. The striker may need to be replaced as well if they polished it to much. Hope this helps. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscott Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 If I read your post right you've had 2 different guns do this? I'd say get a new factory trigger bar and connector and never use that other companies parts again. I can't see how primers could be blamed unless something is jamming up the striker, which you've already ruled out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadeslade Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Striker polished at end, bypassing firing pin safety and over polishing firing pin safety along with too much cut off the firing pin safety spring to lighten trigger probably account for most Glocks going full auto. It is tedious , but every safety must be checked after each polishing part is re inserted. Put a Wolff reduced power firing pin spring in instead of cutting the firing pin safety spring, and just polish the firing pin safety enough to smooth out reset. Never polish the striker (firing pin). Trigger bar work should not make gun go full auto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWest N AZ Posted September 13, 2010 Author Share Posted September 13, 2010 Hello: Replace the trigger assemble with a stock one. I think they polished things a little too well. The striker may need to be replaced as well if they polished it to much. Hope this helps. Thanks, Eric I think that maybe just the fix, im running out what coulds due to there is not to many parts anyways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWest N AZ Posted September 13, 2010 Author Share Posted September 13, 2010 The striker wasnt polished at all far as I can see? The striker spring is reduced wolff. mscott: No its been 2 triggers done by them already that has caused this in the same gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
open17 Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 It was done by a company, and I leave it at that. The trigger bar/connector has a billet like shine on it, and the striker moves freely back and forth in slide not stuffed in it by any means Have you talked to "the company" about it? A Glock goes into burst fire mode when there is not enough vertical contact between the striker hook and the end of the trigger bar, or the angles at that interface are screwed up. What CAUSES the striker hook and the trigger bar to not make happy with each other can be one or more of several things. Bad trigger spring. Trigger bar drilled too high for trigger spring. Incorrect connector tension. Too heavy a lube on the triggerbar/connector area. Someone rounded/changed the trigger bar where it runs against the leg of the connector. Trigger takeup travel screw tightened in too far--if this is the problem it also disengaged the drop safety, and probably the trigger safety and striker safeties too. Overtravel stop set too tight. Another possibility is a loose vertical slide to frame fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 If they are legal and have a stock thay are on time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWest N AZ Posted September 13, 2010 Author Share Posted September 13, 2010 It was done by a company, and I leave it at that. The trigger bar/connector has a billet like shine on it, and the striker moves freely back and forth in slide not stuffed in it by any means Have you talked to "the company" about it? A Glock goes into burst fire mode when there is not enough vertical contact between the striker hook and the end of the trigger bar, or the angles at that interface are screwed up. What CAUSES the striker hook and the trigger bar to not make happy with each other can be one or more of several things. Bad trigger spring. Trigger bar drilled too high for trigger spring. Incorrect connector tension. Too heavy a lube on the triggerbar/connector area. Someone rounded/changed the trigger bar where it runs against the leg of the connector. Trigger takeup travel screw tightened in too far--if this is the problem it also disengaged the drop safety, and probably the trigger safety and striker safeties too. Overtravel stop set too tight. Another possibility is a loose vertical slide to frame fit. Did speak to them and they want to fix it? But after 2 no goes and me spending a good amount of money for the work plus the over priced shipping for a pistol. Im at the point of enough is enough in the wallet. Just to trying to understand what is causing the problem so I can fix it myself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
open17 Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Did speak to them and they want to fix it? But after 2 no goes and me spending a good amount of money for the work plus the over priced shipping for a pistol. Im at the point of enough is enough in the wallet. Just to trying to understand what is causing the problem so I can fix it myself OK. Get yourself a "armorers" slide cover plate. Or make one out of a stock cover plate. It's just a regular plate with the bottom half cut off. Get a good bright little flashlight. Install the plate, and LOOK at how the parts relate to each other when you rack the slide, dryfire and reset the gun. You can see the firing pin safety by looking through the magazine opening. If you have stock parts, install them and LOOK. What's different between the stock and high zoot triggers? Leave the half cover plate on and shoot it. When the trigger malfs (you did say it did it one in 10?) CAREFULLY--the gun it hot!--look and see what's different. Take it slow--pay attention to the little things--you will figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWest N AZ Posted September 13, 2010 Author Share Posted September 13, 2010 Thanks for everyones help! Nice to hear some truth on the matter instead of just stating your piecering primers and thats why this keeps happening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWest N AZ Posted September 13, 2010 Author Share Posted September 13, 2010 I do believe I fixed the issue, on my trigger bar it has top and lower hole for trigger spring. The top providing a lighter pull reset ect, and bottom provides the op affect. I put the trigger spring into bottom hole this provided a much more positive reset and stoped it from sticking and not wanting to reset what so ever. I dryed fired till hand hurt not really but to try and get it do any of sticking and reset stuff nothing showed up after this change. Im going to the range wednesday morning to fire for the tell all truth if it worked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueOvalBruin Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 I've seen it happen before and it was usually the connector. The striker would slip off the cruciform during the reset. You can try it without ammo by holding the trigger back and racking the slide. Then allow your finger to move forward and see if the striker drops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOHNNYGLOCK Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 1+ Did speak to them and they want to fix it? But after 2 no goes and me spending a good amount of money for the work plus the over priced shipping for a pistol. Im at the point of enough is enough in the wallet. Just to trying to understand what is causing the problem so I can fix it myself OK. Get yourself a "armorers" slide cover plate. Or make one out of a stock cover plate. It's just a regular plate with the bottom half cut off. Get a good bright little flashlight. Install the plate, and LOOK at how the parts relate to each other when you rack the slide, dryfire and reset the gun. You can see the firing pin safety by looking through the magazine opening. If you have stock parts, install them and LOOK. What's different between the stock and high zoot triggers? Leave the half cover plate on and shoot it. When the trigger malfs (you did say it did it one in 10?) CAREFULLY--the gun it hot!--look and see what's different. Take it slow--pay attention to the little things--you will figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njl Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 What "bubba gunsmith" has been screwing with your Glock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 It could be caused by over polishing the trigger bar or striker. Change one part at a time until the issue is resolved. I would start with the firing pin then trigger bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vluc Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 I do believe I fixed the issue, on my trigger bar it has top and lower hole for trigger spring. The top providing a lighter pull reset ect, and bottom provides the op affect. I put the trigger spring into bottom hole this provided a much more positive reset and stoped it from sticking and not wanting to reset what so ever. I dryed fired till hand hurt not really but to try and get it do any of sticking and reset stuff nothing showed up after this change. Im going to the range wednesday morning to fire for the tell all truth if it worked? Glad it seems to be resolved. The hole itself may not have been the issue. They may have also changed the angle of the piece it is in. They had to heat up the metal to be able to drill it and they may have also bent it slightly more than it should have been bent. Playing with a Glock is all about angles and minuscule pieces of metal being removed. That's all it takes. Many of us who have tinkered with Glocks have gone back to more stock parts. If you do want trigger work, do a search here, you will find it most often comes down to one guy that shooters recommend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OpenDot Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 Full Auto Glocks FTW!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWest N AZ Posted September 16, 2010 Author Share Posted September 16, 2010 Update so made it to the range this morn and I am happy to report that moving that spring seems to fixed the auto problem. I did all I could to try and get it to go auto? double, triple taps nothing, so Im happy for sure! Thx for the all the insight on my problem everyone.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Your gun still might not be right. (likely) I'd get those factory parts back in it and start over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38supPat Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 I used to be able to get Glocks, a variety, to burst. It's about hitting a certain "sweet spot" in the trigger as its cycling, or at least it used to. I'm not sure how much has changed in the Glock trigger system over the years and I haven't tried it in nearly 20 years. I can't describe how to do it or where it is but I have gotten gen 2 Glocks (17,s 22's, 21) to burp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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