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Redding Competition Seating Die


EricW

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It is absolutley needed if you load the same caliber for 2 different guns that like different OAL or if you load differnent profile bullets that require a change in the seating die. If you have a S_I and a Glock/ XD then it makes it very easy to go back and forth. It also does a great job of seating the bullet.

I have them for 223, 38 super & 40 S&W.

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On rifles it is the best thing since bottled beer, and worth every penny over the competition.

On pistols it is slightly better than Mr Dillon's product, but they are significantly dearer, I like them for some of the awkward bottleneck cartridges like 44-40, 38-40. They will give you a smaller gain over Dillon dies but if you want it you can get it.

We sell heaps of these for Cowboy shooters, particularly the long range rifle events using 38-55, 40-65 and 45-70. Using soft lead projectiles over Black Powder the sulphur burners like the bullet perfectly aligned.

All the 1000yard free rifle shooters use them, and I sell more than my fair share to the Benchrest Boys.

Eric, the seating of the projectile is more critical than anything. Proper alignment and reduction in base damage will improve accuracy more than we realise. It may only be a millimetre or two at 300m for the BR boys, but thats what they need. I havenot got any specific accuracy data for my pistols, but a lot of the long range guys will not use anything else.

The micrometer adjuster is the best part. Keep accurate records of loading setups and when you change projectile shape or brand you can go straight back to optimum seating depth instantly. No messing about.

Warpspeed is on the ball.

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Agreed, it's worth the bucks. Nuttin, and I mean nuttin' seats rifle bullets better, and the repeatability of the micrometer makes changing projectiles and OAL on the same Dillon toolhead a snap.

--

Regards,

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I don't have one. And, that is likely a large part of the reason I won't be trying anything different than my current bullet (which works for me). It would likely take 5 guys with 2x4's to get me to switch up anything on my press. I might be more apt to experiment, however, if I had the Redding Compeition Seating Die.

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Count me in for being a fan as well...

I have one in .40 and in .38. Like Flex, I don't like to change my setup much either. BUT, it sure is nice when I decide to load some plinking/practice ammo for my carry gun. I drop from a 180 grain at 1.185 to a 155 grain bullet at 1.126 and leave the powder charge of N320 alone. It's a couple tenths below the start load on the 155's but I haven't seen any problems and it makes a nice practice or plinking load. I want to say its about a 155 PF or so.

As far as the accuracy goes, I'll have to leave that to someone with more knowledge. I still get several thousandth's variation in OAL. The micrometer part sure is handy though. I believe Hornady makes a finger adjustable OAL die as well. Not sure about Lee? I don't think I would ever go back to one that takes a wrench to adjust. My experience with the Redding has been too positive.

Bryant

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Hi

I would like to get a little more in-put on the Redding competition seating die.

I am shooting zero 125 jhp for 9-major, and zero 115gr jhp for minor.

When I go from a major load of 9.2gr of 3n38, to a minor load of 6gr of n340, the bullet seats a bit shorter with the lower quantity of powder. The OAL for major is 1.154-1.159 and the OAL for minor is 1.146 to 1.152.

I also plan on trying different bullet types in the future. For the sake of consistency and the ease of operation I am thinking of going to the “Redding competition seating die”

Any advice in regards to its accuracy, usability, and necessity, would be appreciated. I am also looking for any recommendations on a good place to purchase one.

Thank you

Rc1

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RC1,

I think you have the right idea.

The Redding die allows you to go back an forth with amazing accuracy. Your 5 - 6 thousandths is very doable. They give instuctions on how to zero the die, After that, you can dial in the 0.010 difference at will. This works perfect with same bullet profile. If your jhp's are identical in shape just longer for the 124's, you will find it very easy. If the profile is different, the adjustment will not be direct on the dies measurement ring but you can still mark it and repeat it.

I do this with 40 S&W between my 180 gr major LTD laod and 155 gr minor production one.

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I use the RCSD on all of my rifle setups.

Redding is a customer of mine and saw a demo first hand at the factory and saw the attributes. :)

The best (least expensive) place I found for Redding products (and other stuff) was at:

www.tntreloading.com

They are in New Jersey of all places and have been there too. Good place.

Dog

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yardbird,

What projectiles were you using, one reason your OAL was all over the place was that the Redding die seats of the ogive not the end of the projectile. So it seats the projectile to exactly the same distance off the rifling. Ask any Bench shooter and he will explain better. The projectiles you were using may have had an untidy nose.

The other option was that you had made an error in your setup. I am surprised you have had this problem. Discuss it with Redding and I am sure they will find the cure.

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I believe I was using Rainiers. I have used them for years and never had a problem. It wasn't the setup, I tried it few different times.

If the problem was caused by ogive seating rather than nose, then unfortunately the die is of no use to me unless I change bullets. Which I may try, but I hate equipment that dictates what other equipment I must use! Rainiers are priced right and have always shot well for me even out of my 9x21 open gun at 1350+ fps.

I might try it again if I pick up another batch of Montana Gold.

Thanks for your input GM IPROD.

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I am using the Redding Competion Seater Die for several years now in my Dillon 650.

Purchased it at Frankonia, Duesseldorf, Germany for just Euro's 70,00, 2,5 years ago

The best purchase I ever did concerning reloading. Accuracy perfect. Alignment perfect!

I use it for .38 Super Auto Major and Bianchi loads! (SVI-gun) Instructions how to zero it very simple., best buy!

DVC, with kind regards, Henny Schmitz, NPSA, The Netherlands.

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Perhaps mine didn't come with the necessary instructions. Will someone please explain how to zero the die? Is there a way to lock the micro meter so as to avoid those inadvertant twists? i.e. OH S---T I just bumped it!!

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