Slide modifacation on Glock 35

[TexasShootR]

I read in the book "The Glock in Competition" where you can improve the trigger pull by reducing the clearance on the slide where the botom frame rail touches the top rail. To do this they used a hammer. To me that looks a bit iffy. It makes since reducing some slack out of the slide to keep the top slide from raising when the trigger is pulled but the hammer job doesn't sound smart. Anyone else tried this and if so how did you do it and did it improve the trigger pull?

[Jman]

To me that looks a bit iffy.

I'd go with that

[EkuJustice]

I agree I wouldn't do it. If you want a good trigger pull and give vanek a call

Edited July 1, 2010 by EkuJustice

[Chris Keen]

There are much easier, smarter, and more effective ways to lighten your Glock trigger.

[sweetback]

I read in the book "The Glock in Competition" where you can improve the trigger pull by reducing the clearance on the slide where the botom frame rail touches the top rail. To do this they used a hammer. To me that looks a bit iffy. It makes since reducing some slack out of the slide to keep the top slide from raising when the trigger is pulled but the hammer job doesn't sound smart. Anyone else tried this and if so how did you do it and did it improve the trigger pull?

Hi TexasShooteR:

It sounds crude but it can be and is done that way. Dale Rhea discribes it in his FRONT SIGHT article on Glock dremmeling years ago.

It is done in conjunction with the whole trigger job. You peen the slide over the area of the metal frame rail inserts

very carefully and when you get a tight slide to rail fit use a lapping compound ( FP10 & JP BORE LAPPING COMPOUND )

until you get nice smooth fit back and forth with no up and down movement. THE MOD IS NOT FOR EVERYBODY. I have done this on several of my personnel glocks and for a few other shooters. John Nagel at SJC does this with a harden steel shim plate of a precise thickness and squeezes slide together in these areas with a vice or press.

Edited July 2, 2010 by sweetback

[TexasShootR]

I read in the book "The Glock in Competition" where you can improve the trigger pull by reducing the clearance on the slide where the botom frame rail touches the top rail. To do this they used a hammer. To me that looks a bit iffy. It makes since reducing some slack out of the slide to keep the top slide from raising when the trigger is pulled but the hammer job doesn't sound smart. Anyone else tried this and if so how did you do it and did it improve the trigger pull?

You peen the slide over the area of the metal frame rail inserts

very carefully and when you get a tight slide to rail fit use a lapping compound ( FP10 & JP BORE LAPPING COMPOUND )

until you get nice smooth fit back and forth with no up and down movement.

When I think of peenning a piece of metal I think a punch and hammer is used. In the book it described (with picture) using a hammer only. The hammer only seems pretty crude in precission. Was he/you using a punch and hammer to do this? I was thinking using a hydraulic press. You could regulate it I think much better. But I know that the slide itself is of a very hard metal and I would be concerned it may break the thin slide rail. Would still like to know was there much of an improvement in the trigger pull after the modification. My trigger pull as it stands is pretty good (installed a ZEV Ultimate trigger kit) but compared to a 1911 it still is a bit muchy. Any advice in adjusting that ZEV trigger would also be appreciated.

[Flexmoney]

Theoretically, a tighter slide to frame fit will give:

- More consistent barrel/action lock up. This would allow for less variance, which should give better accuracy.

- Given the above, if you are running a frame mounted optic, then the optic is in a more consistent relationship with the barrel, shot to shot.

- Feeding would be more consistent. The tighter tolerances would lead to things being in the same place from shot to shot.

- Ejection would be more consistent. And, ejection tuning could be more consistent.

- Trigger wise...since some of the components are in the slide and some are in the frame...and they must interact...then a tighter fit means less variance. It would also make the action more tunable.

Some of the above might(?) go away if the fit is only done at the point of lock-up (as the article suggests).

One question to consider is, "does the fit loosen over time?" If you tighten your slide to frame fit, then based off that, you minimize the engagement of your trigger bar/striker contact...what happens if that fit loosens over time?

I have never done the above modification. I've given it a lot of thought and study over the years. If I were trying to optimize a Glock...say for Bianchi or Bullseye, or to get an Open gun tuned up...then I would consider it.

For other uses, I haven't felt the need.

It might be good to find a Glock that already happens to have a tight slide to frame fit.

[sweetback]

I read in the book "The Glock in Competition" where you can improve the trigger pull by reducing the clearance on the slide where the botom frame rail touches the top rail. To do this they used a hammer. To me that looks a bit iffy. It makes since reducing some slack out of the slide to keep the top slide from raising when the trigger is pulled but the hammer job doesn't sound smart. Anyone else tried this and if so how did you do it and did it improve the trigger pull?

You peen the slide over the area of the metal frame rail inserts

very carefully and when you get a tight slide to rail fit use a lapping compound ( FP10 & JP BORE LAPPING COMPOUND )

until you get nice smooth fit back and forth with no up and down movement.

When I think of peenning a piece of metal I think a punch and hammer is used. In the book it described (with picture) using a hammer only. The hammer only seems pretty crude in precission. Was he/you using a punch and hammer to do this? I was thinking using a hydraulic press. You could regulate it I think much better. But I know that the slide itself is of a very hard metal and I would be concerned it may break the thin slide rail. Would still like to know was there much of an improvement in the trigger pull after the modification. My trigger pull as it stands is pretty good (installed a ZEV Ultimate trigger kit) but compared to a 1911 it still is a bit muchy. Any advice in adjusting that ZEV trigger would also be appreciated.

The proper method would be to use a hydraulic press. I don't have one or access to one so i used a hammer with a few light taps over the areas described.It does add to a better trigger feel when the slide does not move up or down when pulling trigger.I don't use after market triggers, but Zev has a video on there wed site about fine tuning the trigger.As far as the slide loosening up all slide or rail jobs will if you shoot them long enough, even accu-rails.

Then they require retightening.I have done this mod on both my OPEN GLOCK 17s AND STOCK/LIMITED 34-35s. I tried a shooters ZEV TRIGGER this past weekend at a match it felt very crisp with a very short reset. But if you want a trigger like a 1911 shoot or use a 1911.

[sslav]

I did this modification to my glock. I used a bunch of thin metal shims and kept taking them out one at a time until I got the fit I wanted. Worked out for me.

[dirty whiteboy]

risk/reward are not equal on this one.

[Glockcomma]

It's easy and makes a difference, I use a small brass hammer and go slow. Both of my G17 open guns and my G35 limited gun have been tightened.

Tim

[Singlestack]

I tighten mine.

[M109R]

Aftermarket gun smith fit barrels have a larger dimension on the under-lug for a much tighter fit. When locked up it cams up the slide with the barrel against the frame. Barsto and KKM gunsmith fit barrels accomplish this. With the slide and barrel locked up against the lock block it makes all trigger jobs seem better plus is a big help to accuracy. Another way to accomplish the same effect is to add a small weld to the lock block and fit it to the barrel so when locked up there is no slop.

[dsmw5142]

Or you can get a TR Graham match grade slide lock. It locks the slide up a lot tighter and gets rid of the slop, improving accuracy. I have one in my limited G35 and it works well, no hammer needed.

[sweetback]

Or you can get a TR Graham match grade slide lock. It locks the slide up a lot tighter and gets rid of the slop, improving accuracy. I have one in my limited G35 and it works well, no hammer needed.

I have done both on my earlier attempts at slide tightening and TR Graham's slide lock on same gun

trigger was great and so was accuracy.

[sweetback]

Aftermarket gun smith fit barrels have a larger dimension on the under-lug for a much tighter fit. When locked up it cams up the slide with the barrel against the frame. Barsto and KKM gunsmith fit barrels accomplish this. With the slide and barrel locked up against the lock block it makes all trigger jobs seem better plus is a big help to accuracy. Another way to accomplish the same effect is to add a small weld to the lock block and fit it to the barrel so when locked up there is no slop.

M109R would you reccommend TIG weld on STOCK barrel lug or locking block surface to get better lock up.When this weld job is done is there much or any increase in accuracy with stock barrel?

[TexasShootR]

Aftermarket gun smith fit barrels have a larger dimension on the under-lug for a much tighter fit. When locked up it cams up the slide with the barrel against the frame. Barsto and KKM gunsmith fit barrels accomplish this. With the slide and barrel locked up against the lock block it makes all trigger jobs seem better plus is a big help to accuracy. Another way to accomplish the same effect is to add a small weld to the lock block and fit it to the barrel so when locked up there is no slop.

I appreciate everyones input, thanks. M109R your suggestion sounds like something I would try. Could you verify my thought on where to add the weld. Would it be in the area marked A or would b be better? Also would .005 to .015 inches be about the right amount of build up?

P.S. Guys that's not rust on my gun parts it's just bad photography

[mike cyrwus]

the flat to the right of B is where you want to build it up. It is the part that rests on your area "A" when locked up. Your B is the pivot where the barrel "links" down.

I will occasionally laser weld that area on striker guns.

talking about triggers,

a glocks a glock. A nice 3.5# trigger with a good wall is all most shooters will ever need.

[TexasShootR]

the flat to the right of B is where you want to build it up. It is the part that rests on your area "A" when locked up. Your B is the pivot where the barrel "links" down.

I will occasionally laser weld that area on striker guns.

talking about triggers,

a glocks a glock. A nice 3.5# trigger with a good wall is all most shooters will ever need.

Your right Mike, was up late last night looking at it and thought that was the lock up area. If I look down through the trigger area (without trigger installed) I can see how it hooks up. Looks like a little less than half of that area to the right of b is in contact with the block. Would welding just that small area do or the entire top of that base?

[mike cyrwus]

schooch one more flat over; not the part that angles into "B", but the square part that incorporates the feed ramp. This is called the barrel lug.

[BlueOvalBruin]

One of the advantages of taking out the slide/frame slop through the barrel/locking block interface is that you are pushing the slide up instead of pulling it down. Keeping the slide higher would slightly lessen the striker/cruciform engagement and the trigger pull would be shorter.

[kamikaze1a]

Or you can get a TR Graham match grade slide lock. It locks the slide up a lot tighter and gets rid of the slop, improving accuracy. I have one in my limited G35 and it works well, no hammer needed.

Ditto!!!

[TexasShootR]

Aftermarket gun smith fit barrels have a larger dimension on the under-lug for a much tighter fit. When locked up it cams up the slide with the barrel against the frame. Barsto and KKM gunsmith fit barrels accomplish this. With the slide and barrel locked up against the lock block it makes all trigger jobs seem better plus is a big help to accuracy. Another way to accomplish the same effect is to add a small weld to the lock block and fit it to the barrel so when locked up there is no slop.

Thanks to my friend who owns a metal fab company we were able to add a small weld to the kkm barrel. After looking at the slack in the slide we figured it would take anywhere between .005 and .015 inches to tighten it up.

After the tig weld with stainless steel filler rod we set it in his verticle mill and shaved it down to .840 inches.We then checked for proper fit. Not even close at .840 and we knew it but tried it anyway. We then shaved off another .010 inches making it .830 and the slide was tight but would close. We finally got it right at .827 inches. Thats .010 more than the stock kkm barrel.

I haven't shot it yet but I can tell you there is no slack in the slide and the trigger pull has a noticeable improvement. Don't know what the actual trigger pull is but with the ZEV tech fulcrum trigger and the slide tighting it feels like 2 lb pull. Very pleased with the feel and can't wait to shoot it.

Here's a picture of our work

[/img]

[sweetback]

Aftermarket gun smith fit barrels have a larger dimension on the under-lug for a much tighter fit. When locked up it cams up the slide with the barrel against the frame. Barsto and KKM gunsmith fit barrels accomplish this. With the slide and barrel locked up against the lock block it makes all trigger jobs seem better plus is a big help to accuracy. Another way to accomplish the same effect is to add a small weld to the lock block and fit it to the barrel so when locked up there is no slop.

Thanks to my friend who owns a metal fab company we were able to add a small weld to the kkm barrel. After looking at the slack in the slide we figured it would take anywhere between .005 and .015 inches to tighten it up.

After the tig weld with stainless steel filler rod we set it in his verticle mill and shaved it down to .840 inches.We then checked for proper fit. Not even close at .840 and we knew it but tried it anyway. We then shaved off another .010 inches making it .830 and the slide was tight but would close. We finally got it right at .827 inches. Thats .010 more than the stock kkm barrel.

I haven't shot it yet but I can tell you there is no slack in the slide and the trigger pull has a noticeable improvement. Don't know what the actual trigger pull is but with the ZEV tech fulcrum trigger and the slide tighting it feels like 2 lb pull. Very pleased with the feel and can't wait to shoot it.

Here's a picture of our work

Let us know to if there was a noticable increase in accuracy. As i inquired earlier would this be worth doing with a stock glock barrel? Just wondering/considering it for a future project.

Edited July 10, 2010 by Flexmoney
to remove copy of image.

[TexasShootR]

Aftermarket gun smith fit barrels have a larger dimension on the under-lug for a much tighter fit. When locked up it cams up the slide with the barrel against the frame. Barsto and KKM gunsmith fit barrels accomplish this. With the slide and barrel locked up against the lock block it makes all trigger jobs seem better plus is a big help to accuracy. Another way to accomplish the same effect is to add a small weld to the lock block and fit it to the barrel so when locked up there is no slop.

Thanks to my friend who owns a metal fab company we were able to add a small weld to the kkm barrel. After looking at the slack in the slide we figured it would take anywhere between .005 and .015 inches to tighten it up.

After the tig weld with stainless steel filler rod we set it in his verticle mill and shaved it down to .840 inches.We then checked for proper fit. Not even close at .840 and we knew it but tried it anyway. We then shaved off another .010 inches making it .830 and the slide was tight but would close. We finally got it right at .827 inches. Thats .010 more than the stock kkm barrel.

I haven't shot it yet but I can tell you there is no slack in the slide and the trigger pull has a noticeable improvement. Don't know what the actual trigger pull is but with the ZEV tech fulcrum trigger and the slide tighting it feels like 2 lb pull. Very pleased with the feel and can't wait to shoot it.

Here's a picture of our work

Let us know to if there was a noticable increase in accuracy. As i inquired earlier would this be worth doing with a stock glock barrel? Just wondering/considering it for a future project.

Got a chance to shoot the gun yesterday and a little today. As far as accuracy, and keeping in mind I'm not a marksman it didn't impress me to much. Here's a picture of a target shot at 15 yards (slow fire)

On another note, the gun has some problems now it didn't have before. After shooting 150 to 200 rounds it failed to properly feed about 20 rounds. They would hang up on the ramp or get partially in the chamber before hanging. I thought it might be the recoil spring so I changed it with a 15 pound spring. A couple I could get to seat by hittng the rear slide but some wouldn't go. Another thing that started happing today was the slide would close when inserting a magazine. Two ill affects I think of the modifacation to the lock up lug.

The slide might be to tight, I think I'll try and shave off a couple thousands and retry. Any advice would be appreciated as well.