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Pinning Grip Saftey W/shock Buff


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As GN points out, then cut the shock buff into a horseshoe shape and insert it between the GS and the MSH when you reassemble, making sure it drags on nothing else like the hammer strut.

The tension between the MSH and the GS both pushing on the buff keeps everything in place.

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I once had a too-short pin come out and tie everything up during a match. Not fun when the trigger won't move at all.

Of course the pin-piece fell out once I retired to the safe area and thus it worked perfectly there. Does wonders for your confidence thinking "is it going to work? is it going to work?" every shot thereafter

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Have you given any thought to just cutting the nose off of the grip safety. Cut the safety far enough back (about a 1/2") that it cannot ever touch the trigger bow and you will never have to worry about it again. It even looks like the safety still works.

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Yes that is the piece. You could also take a wrap or two of electrical tape around the grip safety, and see if you like it "pinned".

Also do not deactivate any safety if this pistol also does double duty as a carry gun. Even if you occasionally carry it, don't do it. The lawyers would have a field day with that.

Ray C.

P.S. My vote goes to the "moon slice" shock buff wedgie treatment.

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As the Tinkerer might say, "Just get a big hammer and smash the hell out of it, till it doesn't touch anymore."

I never said that. ;)

And I've been able to actuate every grip safety on every gun I've ever owned or shot with zero mods. It's the one thing the Tinkerer doesn't mess with, and if I did, I'd use an impact wrench.

So there.

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As GN points out, then cut the shock buff into a horseshoe shape and insert it between the GS and the MSH when you reassemble, making sure it drags on nothing else like the hammer strut.

Actually, no. You only want a Shok Buff piece to the right side of the hammer strut. If the buff presses on the leftmost leg of the sear spring, the one that powers the disconnector, it'll up your trigger pull.

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Also do not deactivate any safety if this pistol also does double duty as a carry gun. Even if you occasionally carry it, don't do it. The lawyers would have a field day with that.

Y'know, this reminds me of a conversation I had with Bill Laughridge of Cylinder & Slide Shop on the topic of pulling the magazine disconnector out of a Browning Hi-Power. Bill doesn't offer this service anymore (and the only reason not, he said, was "pure-ass product liability") but back when he did he was talking on the phone to a California judge who was listing the stuff he wanted done to his personal Hi-Power. The judge said, "And pull the mag disconnector, of course." Now, you'd think that if anyone has seen people get screwed for doing anything with a gun it would be a California judge. Bill asked him, "Aren't you afraid you'll get 'crucified in court for deactivating a safety device on your gun'?" The judge, literally, laughed at him, and said, "That NEVER happens. It's just something people scare themselves with."

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Why should we pin our grip safety? So far with an ed brown memory groove, I have never experienced a failure to disengage the grip safety on any of my 1911s.

Pls elaborate will pinning the grip increase my performance?

Thanks

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Or if you have thin hands that don't have enough meat to depress the safety even with a sensitized memory bump safety.

Pinning the grip safety won't increase your performance if the grip safety works for you. However if a grip safety give you fits, pinning it will greatly increase your performance since the gun will actually work!

I now like the "old fashioned" hole drilled in the mainspring housing + steel pin option, but the shok-buff method works as long as you fit it just right and it is installed TIGHT. In my experience it's a lot harder to get the buff fit correctly than it is to drill the hole in the mainspring housing and file the pin to length.

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