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Separating 9mm Brass


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I'm relatively new to reloading and have been reloading .40 and .45 on a Dillon 550B with great success, and having a lot of fun doing it. I'm thinking of loading 9mm, but was told that because of inconsistencies in the SAAMI specs, various brands of 9mm brass require different die settings and that 9mm brass should be separated by manufacturer when reloading. This seems like a pain, and I really don't want to have to readjust my dies for each brand of brass. Is this actually necessary?

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Since I started reloading 9mm approximately 1 1/2 years ago I haven't found it necessary to change die settings depending on the manufacturer of the cases. For important matches some shooters do use brass of one manufacturer which would require sorting the cases by manufacturer.

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I have used mixed 9mm range brass since I started reloading a few years ago and have had no problems. For major matches I use new brass and then recycle it into my regular inventory.

FWIW, I use a standard Dillon sizing/depriming die in position 1 and an EGW undersize die in position 2 without the decapping pin. It may be overkill but my loads have been reliable, accurate,and chamber consistently.

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I load just about every piece of 9mm brass that is undamaged. I have never had a single problem with anything, especially in 9 minor loads. I do watch for military brass because of the primer crimp. I just sit that aside and ream the pockets when I get a batch big enough to fool with.

I load on an SDB so I do not pre-sort the brass like you would do with a case feeder. I look at each case before I slip it in the press just as I look in each case for powder. Trash can is 3' to the right if it looks bad for any reason.

IMHO there is just not enough variation to worry with it. As precise as we would like things to be, reloading is a game of averages, especially with powder measures and progressive presses.

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I load just about every piece of 9mm brass that is undamaged. I have never had a single problem with anything, especially in 9 minor loads. I do watch for military brass because of the primer crimp. I just sit that aside and ream the pockets when I get a batch big enough to fool with.

I load on an SDB so I do not pre-sort the brass like you would do with a case feeder. I look at each case before I slip it in the press just as I look in each case for powder. Trash can is 3' to the right if it looks bad for any reason.

IMHO there is just not enough variation to worry with it. As precise as we would like things to be, reloading is a game of averages, especially with powder measures and progressive presses.

Same here, I agree completely with this statement and the others. I have had no issues to speek of using all mixed brass, other than nickle plated brass primer pockets tend to be a bit to loose.

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Not necessary.

There are certain headstamps that I would stay away from but that's a separate issue.

+1. I don't separate yet and have only found one thing that could have been trouble. I throw away "LY" brass because I had one that a primer fell out of after loading and one that had such thin case walls it would not hold a bullet in place. You could push the bullet in with your thumb! :surprise: But I kept that brass and use it for adjusting my seat die as I can pull it out and readjust the die until I get it where I want it. That comes in very handy.

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I've had problems with some brands of brass, but only in combination with certain bullets. I picked up on the problem when gauging the loaded rounds.

I think it's true that (slightly) differing dimensions of cases of different brands will make the finished rounds vary (again, slightly) from one another, but, for the action shooting sports, the accuracy changes are likely inconsequential. More an issue for me is reliable feeding and ignition.

If you don't sort your cases, I might suggest close quality checks on mixed brass, at least when you're starting out loading the caliber, and anytime you work up a new load. While it's a bit more effort, gauging and inspecting your ammo will pick up on things like extra sidewall bulging from very thick brass, or split case mouths and loose primer pockets, stuff you may find more frequently with some brass. This might show you whether it's worth sorting.

For instance. I sort out CBC brass, because it seems to be thicker, and with the long 147 bullets I use, the sidewall gets pushed out so far that the rounds won't chamber, even in a Glock OEM bbl.

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Your reloading experience will go much smoother with fewer chamber rejects and less time spent clearing reloader stopages if you sort your brass and load in same headstamp lots.

It is a pain.

It is quite easy to buy 9mm brass in same headstamp lots if you pay attention to the Classifieds here and on the USPSA website.

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I only sort by head stamp because I find that some brands of brass have tight primer pockets and don't work well on my Hornady Lock-N-Load. I prefer to prime those cases with an old RCBS bench mounted priming tool.

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From posts here it seems most Major 9 shooters are reloading their brass about 3 times and leaving it lay. I see an increasing need to inspect range pickup 9mm brass especially if there is a Major 9 shooter at your range. I would find a source selling certified once fired brass and buy 5,000 pieces or more if you shoot alot. With more and more police agencies converting to 40 S&W the price of 9mm brass is going to go up.

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I always look at my 9mm brass. Buldged cases from 9 major, crimped primers, signs of overpressure in fired brass (primers really flat), other damage. It saves me time reloading. I don't have to clear problems. Same headstamp does help but not needed except for those really bad ones.

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I have a set of twin 8 year old boys that need stuff to do on rainy days, or when I'm pissed of at them. I get them to seperate by headstamp. I use Winchester for matches, and the rest for practice.

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For instance. I sort out CBC brass, because it seems to be thicker, and with the long 147 bullets I use, the sidewall gets pushed out so far that the rounds won't chamber, even in a Glock OEM bbl.

Interesting. I also sort by headstamp, and CBC is one of my favorites to use with the Zero 147's. Runs flawless through my G34 and G17. I also use the Lee FCD in station four on my 550B.

Edited by vluc
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