? Gun Safes ?

[Dukerdog]

Sometimes if you go to a safe store they will have factory seconds. You can pick up a safe for a great deal just because there is a scratch on the back or on the side, you will never notice and they have the same warranty.

Good luck and happy hunting.

Marc

[gmantwo]

I opted to go for two smaller safes(still 30x24x60). This let's you buy all the quality you need now and buy another later. After unbolting them, I can move them by myself with just an appliance dolly. One of mine had a dial type lock, Sargeant and Greenleaf, and it got slightly out of time. Local locksmith told me they all do after a while. But you never know which number is off or which way it's off. I replaced it myself with a digital keypad lock, very easy to do for about $100. Both my safe's cost under $1k each. Both have anti-pry systems at the back of the door. One has external hinges, but even after cutting the hinges off, there is still the anti-pry plate. All gunsafe's use sheetrock as the fire protection, if you want more protection, add another layer of sheetrock to the inside and re-carpet. Then you can build the interior to suit yourself instead of one configuration suits all.

[Delray]

Post an ad on your local craigslist and keep an eye on local estate sales. That's how I bought both of mine. I have a heritage which is pretty nice but it does not have the lock rods at the top and bottom.

[G-ManBart]

I opted to go for two smaller safes(still 30x24x60). This let's you buy all the quality you need now and buy another later. After unbolting them, I can move them by myself with just an appliance dolly. One of mine had a dial type lock, Sargeant and Greenleaf, and it got slightly out of time. Local locksmith told me they all do after a while. But you never know which number is off or which way it's off. I replaced it myself with a digital keypad lock, very easy to do for about $100. Both my safe's cost under $1k each. Both have anti-pry systems at the back of the door. One has external hinges, but even after cutting the hinges off, there is still the anti-pry plate. All gunsafe's use sheetrock as the fire protection, if you want more protection, add another layer of sheetrock to the inside and re-carpet. Then you can build the interior to suit yourself instead of one configuration suits all.

My locksmith told me that they get out of time because of people spinning the dial hard....rotate it normally and it shouldn't happen...at least that's what he told me, and he gets paid to fix them. The problem with the digital models is that when they fail (and they all do) it's often necessary to drill the lock, and that means a new safe.

External hinges are actually a positive. The bad guys (if they don't know better) waste time trying to cut or pry them, and they have nothing to do with holding the door secure! R,

[Tom S.]

My locksmith told me that they get out of time because of people spinning the dial hard....rotate it normally and it shouldn't happen...at least that's what he told me, and he gets paid to fix them. The problem with the digital models is that when they fail (and they all do) it's often necessary to drill the lock, and that means a new safe.

External hinges are actually a positive. The bad guys (if they don't know better) waste time trying to cut or pry them, and they have nothing to do with holding the door secure! R,

They all fail????

[LIQUIDASSETS-MT]

I'm currently in the market for a Gun Safe. What brand of gun safe do you guys recommend? I need one to hold 4-6 long guns and 10-15 handguns.

Good morning,I've been selling gun safes for 18 years.I've sold them all.Liberty makes the best product out there. The National Security line by Liberty is the best. PERIOD.

[G-ManBart]

My locksmith told me that they get out of time because of people spinning the dial hard....rotate it normally and it shouldn't happen...at least that's what he told me, and he gets paid to fix them. The problem with the digital models is that when they fail (and they all do) it's often necessary to drill the lock, and that means a new safe.

External hinges are actually a positive. The bad guys (if they don't know better) waste time trying to cut or pry them, and they have nothing to do with holding the door secure! R,

They all fail????

That's what he told me and that's what the guy at the safe store told me. It's electronic, has a pressure keypad, sooner or later, something is going to quit working.

I haven't timed myself, but I suspect it takes me 15 seconds or so to open my safe with a standard dial. The only real downside I see to standard dials is that they're harder to change the combination on and most folks have to pay someone to do it for them. R,

[G-ManBart]

I'm currently in the market for a Gun Safe. What brand of gun safe do you guys recommend? I need one to hold 4-6 long guns and 10-15 handguns.

Good morning,I've been selling gun safes for 18 years.I've sold them all.Liberty makes the best product out there. The National Security line by Liberty is the best. PERIOD.

Well, you sure made me feel better! I've got the National Security 50 and love it...heck, I even like the color (black cherry). R,

[J-Hon]

Any of you guys who've been into firearms and built a house ever made a safe room?

I used to work at a gunstore while I was in college; my boss was building a house, and ended up building a sizable underground room that jutted off from the basement. Used a safe door, and lined the inside in sheet rock, with a foam fire suppression system to cover the works. I know he also had all the wiring done to minimize risk of electrical fires, but I didn't see it until it was done, and don't have a clue what he did there. He said the cost of the room really wasn't that bad, especially when you compare it to one or two of those gigantic Liberties (which he owned, and sold to offset the cost). Plus you can just roll the cost into your mortgage.

Sounded like a heckuva better setup, if you happened to be building a new house anyways.......

[Rob Boudrie]

My locksmith told me that they get out of time because of people spinning the dial hard....rotate it normally and it shouldn't happen...at least that's what he told me, and he gets paid to fix them. The problem with the digital models is that when they fail (and they all do) it's often necessary to drill the lock, and that means a new safe.

Not necessarily. A properly drilled safe can be repaired with strength in the patched area being stronger than an unpatched area - though drilling would invalidate any UL rating. A repair person would generally use a safe saver pin: http://www.lockmasters.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=653

They key to proper drilling is tools and knowledge. Relocker locations can vary even with the same safe model, and if the person drilling doesn't know where they are, it can be a hit or miss proposition. I suggest removing the interior door of the safe and getting some photos for your files - being sure to include a reference point and something for scale (I taped a ruler to the inside of the door when I took the file photos of my safe). If you ever need a drill job, the person doing it is going to be both impressed and grateful when you show that you are the most prepared client he's even had.

My locksmith told me that they get out of time because of people spinning the dial hard....rotate it normally and it shouldn't happen...at least that's what he told me, and he gets paid to fix them. The problem with the digital models is that when they fail (and they all do) it's often necessary to drill the lock, and that means a new safe.

Mechanical locks often given an indication when they start going bad. You just need to open it once and then replace it. Electrical locks tend to fail "all or nothing" and you don't realize there is a problem until you are SOL.

[Eric Scher]

Any of you guys who've been into firearms and built a house ever made a safe room?

That's something I plan to do when I build my next house.

That won't be for a few years of course, but when the time comes I plan to go with a poured high strength concrete box, with 18" walls, ceiling & floor; reinforced with Chomarat Carbon Fiber C-Grid.

Sounds hideously expensive, but actually not so much. The most expensive concrete is the first yard. Getting the workers out, setting up the forms and the equipment to move the concrete from the truck to the pour spot.

My plans are for a poured concrete structure anyway, so this would be simply a case of another truck of concrete. Well, actually three trucks, figuring 9 yards each. And the Carbon Fiber is just C-Grid, which is what they use to make concrete counter-tops, sinks and other cast concrete objects that they don't want to use ferrous reinforcement for.

I will probably spend more on the vault door portion than on the concrete cube.

[Fishin6061]

+1 for the key pad lock on whatever you get. You will be more inclined to use the safe if it is convenient to get in and out. No reason to leave it unlocked.

[Midas]

If you want the best safe out there. You should consider this one.

http://www.graffundersafes.com/products/safes-weapon.html

[G-ManBart]

+1 for the key pad lock on whatever you get. You will be more inclined to use the safe if it is convenient to get in and out. No reason to leave it unlocked.

With the dial models they have a semi-lock where you use a key. With the electronic locks, when they fail, you're in a bad place...just sayin'

[dcalvert]

I have a 24 year old National that with mechanical lock that is opened at least 4 times a week

never had a problem yet! Thinking I will trust mechanical over electronic every time. How long

do our computers last?

Bet the lock will be working long after I am gone.

dcalvert

[Rangertim]

I bought a new safe as my post deployment present and went with the Patriot Safe Co. They are out of Merlot, CA I believe. They are by far the best I found for the money in terms of price and fire proof ratings. They also include free shipping to your door. They make everything from samller 10 gun safes to 39 gun and up. I highly reccommend them!

[Kevin Spencer]

I will not buy anything but a Fort Knox. I have 2 of them and have never had a problem with them or with Fort Knox and their customer service. You don't want to skimp on your safe. Look at the total cost of your firearms and the value of the other items you would put in the safe. I went with the highest temp and highest time, along with the safe that had the most bolts and thickest metal.

[smokshwn]

Couple of things to consider...

Safes are not an end all be all to theft, with a decent cutoff saw and a diamond blade from any rental store the backsides of most safes are cake to cut into. Only an idiot wastes time on the doors and hinges.

With respect to damage from fire, a safe doesn't have to fail for the contents to be destroyed. Yes your safe may be rated to with stand 12/13/1400 degrees for half an hour, but how does it handle 7/800 degrees for 4 or 5 hours. If your safe is in a basement and your house burns around it, there will be damage to the contents. If the contents are uninsured you still will be out their value.

As well you should still insure your firearms against theft, loss, damage etc for all the times you are traveling with them to matches etc. So the expense is still over and above a safe's cost. Unless you have several irreplaceable heirloom pieces, the economy of the decision usually dictates carrying more insurance and replacing what may be lost rather than buying the safe.

Just $.02

[DanielW]

As well you should still insure your firearms against theft, loss, damage etc for all the times you are traveling with them to matches etc. So the expense is still over and above a safe's cost. Unless you have several irreplaceable heirloom pieces, the economy of the decision usually dictates carrying more insurance and replacing what may be lost rather than buying the safe.

Just $.02

I've kinda gone this route. I have a couple of cheapo Sentry "safes" - but I'm under no illusion as to their effectiveness against a determined intruder - their main function is more safety oriented - to keep kids/nosey guests etc out - possibly also casual smash'n'grab thief types. None of my relatively small gun collection is collectible or irreplaceable in any way; as much as I'd hate to see them stolen or burned, I do have insurance in place to guard against that.

Edited September 28, 2010 by DanielW

[gohuskers]

Good thread. Interesting info on the electronic vs. dial lock. I'll opt for the dial and forget the keypad.

[Alanlib]

That's the first thing you have to understand...

If you are into guns enough to buy a safe, then you need a big safe. Get the biggest one you can afford.

+1 with that comment I agree....

American Security here...holds lots...need more room

ALan

[Mark C.]

I have a Liberty 50. I am pleased with it.

[2alphas]

Some random thoughts, I have 4 safes made by Cannon and Tread. All mechanical locks. Oldest is 25 years old. Buy the largest/heaviest you can afford. Price per pound is the measure of value. Invest in a 'goldenrod'. To be effective protection theyu must be bolted to floor and preferably the wall as well. Seconds or second handed generally present great values, bu remember $$'s per pound!

[Alanlib]

Some random thoughts, I have 4 safes made by Cannon and Tread. All mechanical locks. Oldest is 25 years old. Buy the largest/heaviest you can afford. Price per pound is the measure of value. Invest in a 'goldenrod'. To be effective protection theyu must be bolted to floor and preferably the wall as well. Seconds or second handed generally present great values, bu remember $$'s per pound!

Good call on the golden rod.

I have one works well.

Bolted to the floor and wall, check.

Interior lights in the fashon of rope lites on a motion sensor..Because I could

Fire safe?

They are about as safe as your contents insurance on your home owners.

Security is more of what they are for not fire protection.IMHO.

ALan

[mrwhite1]

I'm fond on Browning.... But if I had unlimited resources I would buy a Fort Knox

However the true test is how they have actually held up to fire / burglary.... I'd like to hear from some people that have first hand experience of house fire, or buglary attemps?

I would recommend getting something bigger than you think you will need, because they fill up quick. Safe may say it will hold 'x' number of guns, but unless you collect H&R Toppers, it wont hold that many. Once you put scopes / etc on guns they usually take up more than 1 slot decreasing how much your safe will really hold.

I also think the gun insurance is a good idea. I asked around on this forum and was recommended (http://historicfirearms.com/). Jack is an awesome guy and prices are significantly cheaper than any other place I checked... like $3@ $1,000 I think.... plus you don't have to schedule any of your guns or have them appraised.