Jeff686

Today (cold, icy conditions) was turning out to be a bad day for this jam. Two in the first stage. I remembered that BE sells multiple viscosities of Slide Glide. I went over to the safety area, wiped off the Slide Glide, and lubed with CLP. Darn thing ran like a top the rest of the day!

So I got the new extractor spring installed. It was considerably stronger than the used one that came out. However, I still had some FTE issues at the last steel match, same as the photo above. I found that I was loading a little light (only 160ish PF), but that shouldn't be a problem. Running Henning's 12.5lb spring. Here are some pics of my ejector. Does it look OK?

If you really have to deprime them, put a drop of oil in them, and let them sit. It will deactivate them.

The point of an illusion is that it is fooling you... If you say "I don't care about any illusion." then you are totally falling for any illusion that may exist. Without being presented with additional information, the mind tends to normalize visual information and adjust it to meet your expectations. Ever watch a normal TV show in wide-screen mode? If you switch back and forth, it is obvious that everyone is stretched and distorted. However, if you ONLY see the wide-screen stretched mode, many people never notice the distortion. Their brains simply adjust. Same thing is happening here. From the photo, you can't tell how far back those people really are standing. Do these pics look different:

I use my jackhammer the most.

Buy tumbling media at the pet store or farm store. They have 'lizzard litter' (crushed walnut shells) at the pet stores, and crushed corn cobs at the farm feed stores. CHEAP !!!! Works great! I never buy the official 'tumbling media'. Way too expensive. Also, it might be worth checking your shooting range for a Chrono. My club (a very well run place), has a couple permanently setup on each end of the rifle range, with a box, roof, steel protector, remote readout, and everything. As for dust: I cut a hole in an old rag. The hole fits over the screw on top of the tumbler, and the rag drapes over the lid. Keeps the dust inside. If you are on a budget, you can use your gun barrel (removed from gun) as a case gauge. Make sure each round drops in. I agree about the ziploc bag. I give it a 2sec squirt, seal the bag and knead them a little. However, I loaded 10K on my Square Deal B without lube. Just makes it easier. I suggest One-shot brand lube, I've never felt the need to clean the cases AFTER loading because of excess lube.

I've probably made 10,000 rounds so far on my newish LNL. I've never had any of the problems you describe, except the tipping cases. I found that polishing up everything, including the flats and lips and shell plate opening made everything run slick as slideglide.

Well, the 22 kit not withstanding (which is a totally separate beast), use tanfoglioparts.com. Buy the EGW sear, EGW hammer, XL firing pin, and a 14 lb hammer spring. Polish the snot out of the important parts, especially where the transfer bar hits the plunger, and the top of the plunger.

When is this going to become mainstream enough for wide spread adoption? http://www.burrisoptics.com/laserscope.html It measures distance and inclination, and is programmable to any load/bullet.

You might want to wait a day or two. There are lots of reports of the app store and possibly iTunes server problems, starting yesterday and all day today. I haven't been able to download apps to my iphone for 30 hours...

Plus, it is a great way to see how bad you flinch when you run a mag empty but don't realize it.

I had one on my AR. It was variable power, high magnification varmit type. At 100 yards, the point of impact changed almost two inches as I zoomed. I zeroed it at max magnification, and shot some groups, zoomed out to minimum magnification, and shot more groups. Almost two inches between the groups. Note that I have a Mueller scope with similar features, but it keeps the same zero across the whole magnification range. If you want a good value in an economical scope, buy Mueller. Search for reviews over at rimfire central web page.

In addition to the ammo changes from the other thread, don't forget to check your feed ramp. I was plagued with nosedive issues, on and off for a long time. Eventually, I discovered a slight bur at the very bottom of the feed ramp where the semicircle edge is located. My nosedives were landing squarely on that ridge (created by the bur) and sometimes getting stuck. It is probably not your issue, but worth inspecting.

I've tried a couple of other brands of Aimpoint clones on my 'fun guns', a Ruger MKII and a 9mm AR carbine. It seems silly to pay $600 for a red dot on a $300 gun, for recreation. I don't care if they don't have 10,000 hour battery life, or can't be frozen in arcitc ice for 50 years and still work. My life does NOT depend on these guns, so I see no need to spend oodles of money on the dots. Anyway, the problem I've had is dot brightness. I used one all winter long (Oregon overcast), and loved it. Come spring and sunshine, I went back to the old (huge) tasco. I've always sold them for close to my cost, so I'm not really out much money. However, I've been hesitant to try the newest generation of economy dots (like the Primary Arms and Vortex), simply because of the dot brightness. However, given this review, and a few others I've recently read, I just ordered a Primary Arms Gen 6. I think I'll try it on the Ruger first!

Yup got it. I'm going to try the local machine supply store first... Thanks!

Just wondering, is your current run of squib free ammo a result of the powder check or the powder measure? Be honest. Lots of people experience powder drop problems with Dillons too. You might have had the same string of squib free ammo if you had just added a powder cop to the LNL. Oh, as a side note: Just Don't Sound Right + stovepipe = stop

Thanks guys. Ordered a new spring today! Now I just have to find that special roll pin punch...

I just started having this FTE failure last weekend. At first we thought it was brass hitting the Cmore mount. As you can see, I replaced the Cmore with an Aimpoint. It happens about once every 100 or so. After returning home, I removed, inspected, and cleaned the extractor and ejector. Everything looks normal, but I'm not an expert. The extractor has about 10k rounds on it. Should I just replace it? Any other thoughts?

In the 80's, I had a cap gun. Rolled up red strip of little dimpled paper. Never would feed right, the little advance lever dohicky attached to the trigger was only synchronous with the very center of the ever shrinking roll.

Anyone know what the feed lips on the mags should? What width? Parallel? 38 super gold team large frame.

Couple of ideas: Powder measure is volumetric, not mass. Powder can settle, given time and/or vibration. Think about all the air at the top of a bag of chips. When filled, but bag is full, but by the time the bag hits the shelves, it appears half full from settling. Maybe your powder is settling, and the first drop of the day is more compact, and therefore heavier. If you run your case cleaner nearby, or the furnace, or a fan, or a compressor, or whatever... it could compress even more. Subsequent drops would be less compacted, and therefore less weight. or How humid is it? Are you keeping the powder in the measure hopper overnight, or in the original jug? Powder jugs are designed to minimize WVTR (water vapor transfer rate). Powder is very dry, coming out of the jug. WVTR for the hopper is high. It is likey the powder could absorb considerable moisture. I don't know how much, but it is possible.

It may hinder the RO, but as the shooter, I don't notice it at all. (I've got a V-8 Tanfoglio)

If I don't expand and flair the case LARGER than bullet diameter, I get lead shaved from the bullet during seating. In fact, even with jacketed bullets, I flair the case mouth more than bullet diameter. This greaty simplifies placing the bullet in the brass and seating the bullet without crushing the brass. It might not be hyper accurate, but I'm doing high volume pistol reloading, not precision rifle rounds. If you want to flair the mouth, the Hornady PTX is very hard to adjust, since it is very cylindrical with a flat shoulder. An alternative funnel is more tapered with a less agressive shoulder, allowing a wider and easier range of expansion and flair to meet each persons preferences.

Ball Detent for me. I have to remove the racker to remove the slide. Loctite a set screw would be a pain in the butt.