Jeff686

You can unlock an iPhone and use it on T-Mobile. However, you will only get 2G (EDGE) speeds, and no surfing while you talk. However, as to the original question... I did Jailbreak my 3G. I loved it because there are a couple of apps that are only available after jailbreaking. One (winterboard) allows complete customization of the whole user interface, including sounds, graphics, icons, and text. It is really powerful. I made a USPSA theme for my phone that had a slideshow of women of IPSC. Another (SBSettigns) provides a very fast way of toggling your system settings from any screen (wifi on/off, autolock on/off, brightness, bluetooth on/off). Oh, and if you're going to upgrade to a new iPhone (from 3G to 3Gs), jailbreak and unlock it to increase it's resale value to offset the cost of the upgrade.

Huh? Have I been out west too long? Permit to own a gun on the east coast? You already own them legally. You probably just can't bring them to NYC legally. I can claim ignorance about NYC laws, but I was under the impression that 'gun registration' and 'gun permits' were really a thing of TV and CSI, not an actual fact in most places. Everywhere I've lived, you only need to pass a background check when buying from a dealer, doing an interstate transfer, or (in some places) a gunshow private purchase. A background check is NOT registration (although many states do illegally retain the information). Dealers do keep a record of all sales, but do not enter them into some master database so big brother can track you down. All other transfers between people (face to face) do NOT require any paperwork. You can give them to a relative or friend or complete stranger (as long as it's face-to-face). Tracing a gun is really much more difficult than a 2 second computer search. The item must be tracked from manufacturer through the dealer to each owner. This whole idea of 'gun registration' or 'permits' is BS in most places. Unfortunately NYC is one of them. Sure, if you want to bring them to NYC you're probably going to have to do some paperwork. What's the point? You can't really use them there anyway. I'd keep them somewhere more gun friendly and 'go see them' when you want to shoot. A quick search of the web found NYC fingerprint fees of $74 and processing fees of $170 per handgun (dated info, but fees never go down).

James, I don't feel like I know exactly what is happening with your failure. Can you provide more details? Are you using factory lenght magazines, or have you added an extended base. What followers are you using? What happens when it stops working. The more details the better... photos are even more valuable.

Did he pronounce 'swaging' properly? I've always thought 'swage' rhymed with 'gauge' not 'bag', or am I the ignorant one?

What scares me about the ultrasonic cleaners is that they remove ALL the oil. Most gun cleaning fluids are rust-preventers, but ultrasonic fluid is water based. I had my 1911 rust within minutes of coming out of the cleaning bath. I think the best solution is one of the gun-branded ones that have removable steel basins. One basin contains the cleaning fluid, and one with the anti-rust post-cleaning fluid. Sonic in cleaning fluid - scrub with toothbrush - sonic in cleaning fluid - rinse in sink - sonic in anti-rust to drive off the water.

Yea, I know that it's all about the money, but it seems silly to throw away what budget they have on adds that make them look 3rd rate. Personally, I'd spend my money on a much better web page, and 1/4 page ads that look better and emphasize the web address.

Henning, You have to call EAA!!! Tell them to stop with the cheezy, low budget, sophmoric advertisement campaign. I don't mind a sexy girl selling guns, but there is something annoying about the EAA adds. Somehow, the cover of the Blue Press is much more pleasant and professional than the EAA adds. For a while I've been seeing EAA adds in the magazines, and thought they were cheezy. I just saw a TV commercial on the Outdoor Channel. It was horrible! It looked like their marketing manager paid his girlfriend to act and shot the video in his office with a handheld camcorder. It's time to fire their ad agency (or maybe time to hire their first).

Print the page from the online rule book that applies, with the passages highlighted. Tell him it used to be legal, but for safety reasons, the rules changed. This nullifies his argument that 'its been legal for 15 years' and forces him to the next stage of the issue. Comply or go home. He may disagree with the rule, but with words in hand, he can't claim that he is compliant. There is a LONG history of very low tolerance for breaking safety rules, and if he has been in the sport for 15 years, he knows that. P.S. Maybe bring some goodwill to the situation. Do you have a spare holster that you could have on hand, so he is not forced to go home without shooting. It always makes me feel good when people try to help out by loaning me gear or tools.

Maybe this is too obvious, but I made this mistake before... If the overtravel is too agressive, the sear can drag on the hammer. While debugging, I'd screw that puppy out to provide lots of overtravel. If you hold the trigger back and move the hammer, you can often feel the interference.

Both are equally good. I'd save the Hornady powder measure for your most popular caliber. It IS more consistent than the Lee. I ran a comparison with a very good scale... Yes, there is a 'funnel' for the Hornady measure. It is flat on the bottom, and acts to activate the powder drop when the case pushes it upward. Good luck!

Lee dies, powder measure, and thru-expander work in Hornady. I use Hornady dies and powder measure for my primary pistol ammo, but when I need some 9mm, I pop in some Lee dies and Lee powder measure. Since Hornady uses the LNL bushing, changing caliber is quick and easy. It is really nice having multiple powder measures, and not having to change the powder charge settings. Oh, and I built a slider with an adjustment for the Hornady powder through expander that makes it work great! Setting the expander depth is easy and there is no messing around with screwing the dies in and out, no frustration.

Although it isn't an exact science, you can also inspect the primers for flattening or cratering, sometimes an initial sign of high pressure. Most of us running open guns exceed most of the 'book numbers'.

Every club and match I've ever been to are using 10-15 year old bricks. Most of them are heavy and ugly, and have an old segmented display with very few features. The reason they are so good for a club is that they are actually 20 year old technology, and therefore cheap and robust. They are a good choice if you want to toss it into a range bucket with some rocks and old spikes, or forget it on your truck hood and see it bouncing down the road in your rear view mirror. Personally, I like something a little more modern with more features and a sleeker design and user interface. I really like my CED 7000. It has lots of features and is small and lightweight. There are several accessories for belt, wrist, and neck wear during practice. It is easy to use and quick to lookup draw and split times. I honestly don't know how it would stand up to club use over several years, but it is definately not shoddy or low quality. Oh, and if you own an iphone, just download the shot timer app instead.

Rob Shephard at Major Nine Guns in Salem works on my Tanfoglio Gold Team race gun, and has always done a good job on everything I need. http://www.m9guns.com/ What is your specific problem? Maybe we can help too. There's a lot of good info in the Vendor area of this forum. EAA/Tanfoglio forum.

I'll second that! With 45, it is much ease to look into the case as you place the bullet.

YES! Even with the troubles I had with my sear and trigger bar (most people won't have this problem) I would buy again. My favorite things about this trigger: 1. Tighter fit. My old trigger used to wobble around side-to-side a lot. The new trigger is much tighter with less wobble. 2. Ease of installation. No silly spring to drop or loose. 3. No more stupid roll pin! I really like the new threaded pin. 4. feels better to shoot, with closer pre-travel and over-travel.

I went to the Nationals this year. Other than meeting the people on my squad, it wasn't too exciting. I probably won't go back unless the wife wants an excuse to go to Vegas. I started to wonder which matches are worthy of my time and travel dollar. So, my question is, which match is the best? Tell me why? What makes it worthy? Keep it in the USA. Criteria can include, but not limited to: cool stages, round count, location, weather, attendance, ease of travel, themes, or prize table.

I'll add another tip to this thread. The sear arm that is pushed by the trigger bar can be trimmed and thinned to help shorten reset and move the trigger reset back farther. With my stock trigger, the previous owner was very agressive trimming the sear arm. The result was a nice trigger with a short reset. However, with the new Henning trigger, the bar was not long enough to fully trip the sear. The trigger actually bottomed out on the frame before the hammer would fall. I had two possible solutions. One was to buy and fit a new sear with the untrimmed arm. The other was to increase the reach of the trigger bar. Luckily, I had a friend with a TIG welder. He is very good and added a bead of metal onto the trigger bar right in the spot where it pushes the sear. I spent a few minutes with a file and stone, and the result is an additional 80/1000" of material, and a new trigger that now trips the sear. My trigger now is a little forward of veticle, but seems to fit my hand well. If I want to move the trigger back, all I have to do is remove a little more material from the bar. Maybe if Henning designs a new trigger bar, he could add an adjustable pull length!

Not to be stupid, but how did the 2nd round get chambered? Can a squib cycle the slide?

I sometimes get a tipped case too. I beveled the edge of the shell plate a little (using a file, then a stone) and it helped a lot. I only did it to knock off the sharp edge and smooth it out a little. I've found that doing some minor fitting and polishing is frequently helpful with all sorts of mechanical stuff.

I had a strange jam today at a local match. My gun was just cleaned and inspected, and ran great for the whole match, except for one string. The stage was a real hozer setup, with eight targets within 6 feet of the box. See the pic. The course of fire was 3 strings. String 1 was one shot per target freestyle, string 2 was stronghand, and string 3 was weakhand. I shot from left to right. I was pushing really hard, and not stopping the gun, just pulling the trigger as the muzzle passed the targets. I jammed on the 3rd target, and then again on the 7th. The jam was caused by an ejected case getting caught in the slide as it closed. On the second and third strings, I shot from right to left, and there were no jams. My gun does not have an anemic ejection. It throws them 5-8 feet to the right, and slightly forward. However, they don't eject upward, but rather directly horizontal. Has anyone had jams like this when driving hard to the right? Like I said, the gun ran great the rest of the day. - edit, added a pic of my gun, and the scope has NO brass marks on it.

I bought a Lee Turret as my first press. STUPID MOVE! I wasted a year reloading on that thing. Don't get me wrong, it is a quality product, but I now regret every minute I spent with it. A progressive press is so much better, faster, and easier to use! My advice: UPGRADE ASAP. Since you already own dies, I'd skip the SDB (proprietary dies) and go for a Hornady LNL AP or Dillon 650. People love the Dillon 550, but its lack of auto-indexing is a no-sale.

Yea, the case feeder is a BIG PLUS. I used bake cleaner on all the metal parts of the powder measure. Gotta get that shipping grease off. However, it also seemed to loosen the paint. Maybe a less agressive solvent would be appropriate. If you don't want to start messing with the powder thought expander, and you have an extra unused spot, you can expand and powder drop separately. That would ease setup for the first runs... Be careful to lock down the die into the bushing. Some of my bushings sit tight in the press, and I have accidentally unscrewed a die when I meant unlock the bushing. Along the same lines, if you have a bushing that is looser than the others, don't use it on the powder drop. It can slowly rotate and unlock (oops). When you get the case feeder, buy some spare shell-plate case retention springs. I found that they got munched up a little more often. Also, Lee powder measures work in this press too, so if you buy used dies or have old stuff lying around (like I did), you can use their powder measure/expander system as well. I had a lot of trouble adjusting the powder-through expander for 38 super. So much that I designed an adjustable stop to help fine tune the system. When I setup for 9mm (for a friend), I used old Lee dies, and the Lee disk-measure. It was much easier to adjust the expander. However, I have a very expensive scale and did a study of powder drop accuracy and precision, and found the Hornady powder drop to be far superior. Typical tradeoff... Buy a big strong quartier-sized magnet (lowes and home depot have them) and stick it on the press chassis. I use it to hold the popular sizes of allen wrenches. Don't use too much torque on the primer tube bolt (where it meets the shell plate). You need to only finger tighten, plus a little. If it is having trouble picking up a primer, try adjusting the torque. Also, frequently check this bolt, since it can come loose as you work. Sorry this wasn't very well organized, I'm multitasking on a conference call...

Got friendly email from him last week. Answer was 'someday'...