Griz

I like to draw my revolver and put my thumb on the safety. Then I close the cylinder and start shooting.

I shoot more rounds in a one day MG shoot than a lifetime worth of 3-gun matches. With CLP, if it "burns off" in a few hundred rounds, just hose some more in and keep shooting. With motor oil or straight lube with no "C", when the gun stops running I have take the it apart and get out the brake cleaner to clean the gunked up oil out of the gun... CPL sucks as a lube, but not as much as motor oil sucks as a cleaner! It was just a suggestion to try the correct lube since I know for a fact that motor oil with some carbon fouling can slow down a severly overgassed M16 bolt enough to make it stop working, so it is probably not a good idea in a gun that seems to be undergassed in the first place. The OP's fundamental issue is probably a leaky gas block, or a crooked buffer tube or some other fundamental defect, but using the wrong oil doesn't help.

One thing to try is using gun oil instead of motor oil. AR-15s run best with a CLP. The "C" stands for Cleaner which in theory keeps the carbon fouling at bay. In addition to not having the "C" component, the viscosity of the motor oil you are using is probably not ideal... It may be slowing down the bolt carrier and contributing to the short stroking. Even lowly Rem Oil would probably be better than motor oil. Most overgassed factory rifles will function fine with the wrong oil, but a fast competition rifle tweaked right to the edge of failure will be less forgiving.

I have the red version of that mill with lots of mods (belt drive, shumatec dro, etc) and find it is fine for most 1911 work... I use it to lighten stainless slides, fit barrels, etc with no drama. The only thing I am not sure I could do would be cut a frame for a w/n barrel because of the z axis limit. I have been thinking about getting a cnc fusion kit for years now but I worry that it will make doing quick little seat of the pants projects with no plans a lot harder. How well does the pendant work for something like, say, lowering the barrel bed in a 1911? I did that the other night in about 10 mins most of which was dialing in the 1911. What are you using for cad? I use solidworks at work and find every thing I have tried for cheap/free at home disappointing and frustrating. ..

I raise the garage door an inch and use a triple burner Mr Heater... Even with a gap at the bottom of the door, it about runs me out of my 2 car garage with 14 foot ceiling. http://www.amazon.co...p/dp/B00005LEXK

This... Toyota had a 1/2 ton turbo diesel in the lineup for 2010, with Ford and GM planning theirs for 2011... But something happened in 2008 that caused the EPA to tighten emissions standards, killing the 1/2 ton diesel... It just doesn't make sense to put $10,000-$20,000 worth of emissions control crap on a truck that has to compete with $25,000 gas powered models.

I always assumed the first version was pulled because someone managed to blow one up... Hope it comes back.

Note that "mil spec" doesn't always mean "mil spec"... There are plenty of tubes out there with rolled threads and "mil spec" dimensions that are made of 6061 instead of 7075 aluminum, so they are not actually "mil spec" even though they claim to be. The bottom line is buy from a name that you trust to stand behind their product and no one will be able to tell the difference between rolled threads and cut threads in a non-destructive blind "pepsi challenge". I am not willing to pay the premium for an actual mil spec 7075 buffer tube and I don't use my game guns as baseball bats so most of mine are commercial diameter tubes.

I bought these 2 AR-15 stripped lowers a few month back and don't think I need them anymore, lookin to trade for "services rendered" + cash. They were made by areo precision, standard mil spec lower, serial numbers are in order... Prefer face to face transaction, though face to back is OK too. Female buyers only, please send pics so I can determine how much cash you must kick in. Thanks for looking.

If the user needs the NV setting, the price of a new 512 isn't really relevant. Used NV compatible EOtechs are selling for around $400 right now.

I agree, but they are good for you wallet. I disagree that it was eye opening as as nothing new was learned and existing knowledge wasn't used to make the "study" more useful as far as the reliability portion goes. (edit: maybe I misunderstand "eye opening". If it means "brought attention to pre-existing knowledge", then I agree with that) Again no not when your paying for new expensive Stainless barrels every 3k. I am getting 3K because stainless barrels generally have about half the life of a chrome lined barrel. They were getting 6K out of the chrome lined barrels so 3K is probably what you would get out of a stainless barrel. One poster here in Finland talked about having bullets tumble from his stainless barreled gun at around 4K. A new $300 to $600 barrel every 3K is not better on your wallet. As for eye opening a lot of people falsely have been reporting that bi metal bullets like those from Wolf are just fine on your barrel. Which this proved was completely false. Pat I think we're more or less on the same page. The only disagreement is that I think that those with $600 barrels would not consider steel jacketed ammo in the first place for accuracy reasons, so I don't think that case applies to this subject... If they are happy with the accuracy they get from bottom of the barrel ammo, they obviously are not making good financial decisions in the first place because they wasted money on an expensive barrel that they don't need for their application.

Some of the Russian stuff used to not have non-steel jackets. The only way to know for sure is to use a magnet as I have cases of Wolf with either type of jacket and as far as I can tell the markings on the packaging didn't change.

I agree, but they are good for you wallet. I disagree that it was eye opening as as nothing new was learned and existing knowledge wasn't used to make the "study" more useful as far as the reliability portion goes. (edit: maybe I misunderstand "eye opening". If it means "brought attention to pre-existing knowledge", then I agree with that)

OK then, that is the cost of 1 case of brass ammo more or less. But if you're using high dollar barrels, you need accuracy so you're not going to consider Wolf ammo anyway. I have some rifles with expensive barrels, but they aren't the ones that I take to a MG shoot to do mag dumps at tannerite laced cars! Even if I did, the math is clear that it would cost less to shoot steel cased ammo. You don't need a smith to install a pre-fabbed AR-15 barrel... If you're starting with a blank and installing a barrel extension you need a gunsmith, but if you're buying a barrel with the barrel extension already installed, then the most specialized knowledge you need is "righty tighty, lefty loosey" (though I guess if you swing a hammer like a girl, you need either a gunsmith or an angle grinder to remove taper pins ) The tools cost 4 magazines of XM193. If you're shooting enough to even make this discussion worthwhile, it's worth your time to buy the tools and turn the wrench yourself even if you don't shoot steel jacket ammo.. A vice block and barrel wrench is a rounding error when we're talking about buying enough ammo to wear out a barrel. All I'm saying is they burned 36,000 rounds of ammo but ignored an issue with steel cased ammo that is common knowledge among AR-15 enthusiasts. Either: A) they are not familiar enough with the weapons/ammo they were testing to know that steel cases do a poor job of sealing the chamber and the resulting chamber fouling must be removed frequently if you don't want stuck cases. or They were aware of this issue going in, but chose to tailor their "study" to promote a particular product. I choose not to assume a hidden agenda so I must assume that they were not familiar with ar-15s and steel case ammo and that they didn't do a little basic research before wasting 36,000 rounds. If my life depends on it or I need to hit a small target, I'm not going to use cheap steel cased ammo . But if I'm sending a lot of rounds down range and the targets are big/close, it will cost me about $1500 less to buy 10 cases of wolf and 2 new barrels than 10 cases of XM193(or whatever). If for some reason I'm insane enough to blast Wolf through a Kreiger barrel, it will still cost $1000 less for the same 10,000 rounds.

Even if it wears a barrel faster it would still be far cheaper to shoot steel jacketed bullets if you but ammo and don't reload. You could buy 2-3 barrels for the price of one case of good ammo! Also those guys should be taken with a grain of salt as they don't seem to be very knowledgeable ar15 armorers. Needing an angle grinder to remove a taper pin? Not to mention getting stuck cases because of neglecting to use a chamber brush.

The best solution would be to just price them at the current market price so that people can buy what they need when they need it rather than hold the price artificially low and have to deal with rationing and shortages.

If you need a magazine would you rather pay a high price for one or would you rather just not be able to get one at any price?

The motor runs when the switch on the drop tube is closed, so you can figure out real fast if the switch is the problem. Just bypass the switch by shorting the two wires together.

For benchrest the more magnification the better... It is TOTALLY different from run and gun on gigantic steel targets. you won't see many serious benchrest shooters using lower than 24x at 50 yards much less 500! I use a Nightforce benchrest 12x-42x on a benchrest AR and highly recommend it. I can sometimes see my sighters through that scope when people are having trouble seeing thiers through spotting scopes. I also have a Leupold mkiv 8.5-25 that I retired to a varmint rifle because the lower top magnification was such a handicap. I have a cheap Weaver 36T for rimfire benchrest but its resolution cant compete with the NF for long range. Get the NF 42x buy once cry once, it's less expensive in the long run

I use a seat/crimp die (RCBS I think) and a powder check. I'm not going to give up the powder check and my ammo loaded with the seat/crimp die is very accurate (under an inch at 50 yards).

My powder check die buzzed one time so I stopped and looked in the case. The powder was moving... A big hairy spider was trying to dig his way out!

Pro's frequently shoot what they are payed to shoot and Jerry could win just as easily with a BSA, so I don't put any stock in what the pro's use. That said, I have been lusting after a z6i for a long time but it is just too expensive. This Vortex is at the level of pain that I can deal with, but my only reservation is that the reticle looks too fine. Hopefully I won't get an opportunity to look through one and blow a wad of cash.money.

Amazing accessory for a jetski: http://www.youtube.com/embed/Cd6C1vIyQ3w

I have used them in a match for shits and giggles. No problems with timers if the RO is on the ejection port side as just the bolt slamming back and forth on an AR is loud enough to cause hearing damage. There is no advantage to using a silencer though... Any recoil reduction is mainly from hanging a weight on the end of the barrel. I would rather use a comp and get zero recoil and a lighter rifle. The disadvantage besides weight is that it is just one more thing to go wrong. 2 guys used them at our club match last weekend. Both of them shot loose and had baffle/endcap strikes that ended their stage prematurely. User error for sure, but it happens. (And Hiram Maxim called it a "silencer" when he invented it. So I don't care what Tactical Ted calls it, "Silencer" is the correct term )

I agree with all of the comments about features required for longevity of a shop compressor that will be used daily or even weekly... But to keep the tires on 2 cars inflated, the cheapest Chinese compressor will probably last a lifetime. That said, buying a new toy/tool isn't always a strictly logical cost/benefit decision