Griz

I'm sure this idea has been shot down long ago, but maybe a way to eliminate the holstered pistol issue would be to require your gear to be the same for all stages. No belt reconfigs. If you want to use a suicide bomber vest for shotguns, you get to wear it for all stages. Or not

Adding salt will make your ice-water colder, but it will last for a shorter period of time. Otherwise, you'd have to rewrite the laws of thermodynamics, and that would probably cause the universe to explode!

It's my absolute favorite book and there is no way a movie adaptation can do it justice... I actually hope they take the Starship Troopers route and don't even try to do a faithful adaptation and instead do something totally different. (and for the record, I enjoyed both Starship Troopers the book and the movie as totally different works that share only the title).

The Coleman Xtreme coolers will keep ice for an honest week if you don't open it very often. The trick is to have 2 coolers, a big one that only needs to be opened occasionally and one with drinks in it that everyone will be opening constantly. When you have to open the "long term" storage cooler to get food or whatever, replenish the drink cooler's ice. Whatever you do, don't drain the water... When you drain the water, something has to replace the water and that something is hot air. No faster way to melt your ice!

Abercrombie is one of the best out there. Just wait until you read The Heroes. Currently re-reading Ready Player One by Ernest Cline. Reading The Heroes now... Nobody writes the grunt's-eye view of medieval combat like Abercrombie... I remember one scene where a guy shits himself in terror leaving a mess on the ground, then another guy slips in it at a bad moment and gets brained.

I don't shoot USPSA, so forgive me if this is a stupid question, but why does everyone wear their guns all day? Wouldn't it be a lot less stressful and more convenient to keep it bagged and take it from the bag at LAMR? Is it just a holdover from IDPA where you are (theoretically) supposed to be wearing your daily carry gear? I shoot NRA AP where bagging your gun is the norm. It doesn't seem to take any extra time and you don't risk a DQ from a dropped gun. Plus, I usually shoot multiple guns, so trekking to a safe area every time I needed to switch guns/belts would be very annoying.

When I was younger I used a .30-06 to kill a lot of whitetails in bean fields at long ranges, a few over 1000 yards... But I was young and dumb and didn't think about things like the ethical issues with the bullet's flight time... Even as close as 300 yards, the animal can take a step while grazing and turn a heart/lung shot into a gut shot while the bullet is in the air.

Q: How do you make a woman scream in your reloading room? A: Leave live primers in the carpet for the vacuum cleaner to detonate.

Best Served Cold by Joe Abercrombie

If he re-used beads that had been used on carbon steel then it would rust quickly. Otherwise, just wipe it down with something like Rem-Oil and it should be fine unless you are going on week-long survival training course in the swamps of SC.

Even better is the people who think that the stuff they bolted to whatever they are selling raises the value by how much they paid for the extra crap.

I use a remote control relay like this: http://www.smarthome.com/7746A/SECO-LARM-SK-910RBQ-1-Ch-RF-Receiver-315MHz/p.aspx I open up the remote and wire the NO contacts of a tiny low-current 5V relay in parallel with the button on the remote. I then wire the coil through a current limiting resistor to a 3.5mm plug to the timer. I use CED 8000 timers, but it sounds like the AUX output on the CED 7000 is the same. With this setup, you can either push the button on the timer to manually activate the remote control relay, or the relay will be activated when the timer beeps.

I don't think that they do that necessarily for a performance advantage. One of my brothers is a cop and he wears gloves solely because he doesn't want his skin in contact with the scumbags he has to handle on a daily basis. Plus, half of the reasoning behind the way SWAT teams dress is simply to look intimidating... How intimidating would a SWAT ninja with bare hands be?

It has occurred to me to allow rimfire and pistol caliber carbines. I haven't brought it up because we have a good turnout for sanctioned AP matches and have some very dedicated AP shooters so I don't think it would be appropriate to slow down the AP match with a bunch of extra shooters doing a sort of side match. We do Sunday afternoon club matches of various disciplines, including AP, and have done a rimfire rifle mover before. A rimfire rifle plates match (20,30,40,50 yards) is in our regular rotation and is a very popular event.

I was not inverted I think it was not overpressure, as said, Wolf is pretty weak to begin with and it didn't sound any different, the gun just stopped. Although who knows what counts as "over pressure" in steel cased ammo. It could have just been a case with a loose primer pocket. Who knows. <- Vodka shots There was no option of working it like a bolt gun. Since the gas tube could not enter the carrier key, the bolt wasn't even close to being able to close.

I couldn't budge it with needlenose pliers. I was about to drill it, but decided that since the lip of the carrier key was boogered up a little where the bent gas tube hit it I'd just replace the key and keep the old one for a conversation piece. I also found out that I did a really good job staking the original carrier key

I shoot 40gr varmint bullets at high velocity in 2 different 1 in 7 barrels from WOA... I get under 1/2 minute out to 300 yards in benchrest competition. I asked someone at WOA about why this was the most accurate bullet out of my 1 in 7's when everything I read said light bullets would blow up if shot from 1 in 7 barrels... His answer was "believe what you see, not what you read".

Primer in the carrier key pretty much stops an M16 in it's tracks... 55gr Wolf, the spent brass looks fine except the primer fell out. The gas tube got bent somewhere along the way. I had to pull it anyway to get the gun unjammed. With a RDIAS, there is no way to get the upper off if the bolt won't close. I had never seen or heard of this happening before, so I thought I'd share.

I borrowed a M1S90 for a shotgun stage and after ULSC somehow ended up with the bolt closed on an empty chamber and a shell in the magazine. I didn't notice (was focused on the chamber and actually racked it multiple times to be sure it was empty before hammer-down) and the RO didn't notice. The guy I borrowed it from found it later... It didn't cost me anything in the match, but what a sinking feeling in the stomach when he told me. I still don't understand how that could happen, but I know to manually unload the tube now.

I agree in principle and I didn't even intend to use the Dillon resizing, seating and crimping dies (though I used them for a few hundred rounds to figure out how the press works). My gripe is mainly that the shellplate and swager should have been adjusted correctly out of the box... Those are not things that should need to be tuned to my components and not something that I would be expected to know how to adjust without RTFM (and who wants to RTFM? ). They were both easy enough to figure out, but the loose shellplate flipping cases up on top of the shellplate really had me worried for a few minutes that the 1050 had a serious design flaw and that all Dillon customers have been brainwashed into ignoring the issue.

You are welcome to bid on it at my estate sale... Hopefully you'll have a long wait though!

I also fixed it by loosening a screw... loosened it all the way as a matter of fact and tossed the ratchet in the scrap bin.

I just got a 1050 and while it's the best press I have ever owned, I have a few gripes I need to get off my chest. 1) The height of the press... It is a foot taller than every other press I have ever used. My reloading bench is built for my existing presses and the 1050 is an ergonomic nightmare. Either I have to sit on a bar-stool, which kills my back, or I have to stand up and hunch over... which kills my back. I'm going to have to build a new bench and find a spot for it just because Dillon had to "think different". I also find it amusing that they apparently sell "strong mounts" to bandaid their standard height presses to be compatible with a bench setup for a 1050. 2) Dillon should be ashamed to ship this fine press with that kludged-up ratchet crap installed. It was non-functional out of the box. Every 4th or 5th stroke of the handle, the ratchet would jam up and lock up the press. None of their other presses have this lawyer-inspired feature, so why would they cripple their premium product with it? 3) The "factory setup" was poor... The shellplate was so loose that it tilted and flopped making about every 10th case miss the shellplate, fall over and get jammed up. The primer pocket swager didn't swage. The expander was set so that bullet jackets were getting shaved. I would have preferred that they just shipped the dies loose and didn't claim to have set them up rather than to have set false expectations that it would work right out of the box. I have it all tuned up now though and was able to crank out 200 rounds in about 10 minutes for an impromptu range trip after work yesterday. I just need to deal with the height issue because my back is sore after just 10 minutes operating it. Flame away!

I have watched some serious competitors in a short range benchrest match shoot the whole match with one piece of brass. There is pretty much no discipline that requires more precise ammo than benchrest, certainly not 3-gun! It's easy to do, I have a single stage press and a mount for my powder measure mounted on a 2x6 that I C-clamp to a shooting bench. That press, a hand priming tool, dies, primers, bullets and powder are all you need. If you have a Lee Loader or hand press you can travel even lighter. I have seen a fairly well known arms/ammo manufacturer developing loads at a National Forest range using a Lee hand press. He said his "business" range was indoors and the weather was too nice to work indoors.

That's easy. It's heavy and not the best choice for 3-gun, but if I can only have one and it has to last forever, the only choice is a stainless steel Group Industries registered receiver. For 3-gun, just get whichever one has the roll mark you like. With very few exceptions, any lower from a reputable manufacturer is just fine and many of them come from the same 2-3 manufacturers anyway. I'd avoid billet lowers for 3-gun as the extra weight buys you no quantifiable advantage.