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Guitarmageddon

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Everything posted by Guitarmageddon

  1. noted! what colors? got any pics? also, i havent mounted the rear sight yet but Im wondering how the .125 width fits into the rear notch
  2. Well I went with the SDM green fiber front. Still mulling my options for rears currently. Damn the green is bright when it collects light! I like it. It is just a slight bit longer than the previous sight, and you can see it overhangs a little but not a huge deal to me. Not sure if there are shorter versions of the same sight I couldve bought. I know there are height/width variations though.
  3. oh very interesting. ok. do you use a different main spring? @mchapman i also do the set screw in my r8 I just did. are the rebounds interchangeable between the different frame sizes? i have a bunch and Im pretty sure they were labeled k/l/n frame but I have to dig them out i cant remember. 11lbs to 14lbs in my toolbox.
  4. Hello everyone, Im feeling emboldened after the general success of the trigger work on my r8, and setting my sights onto my 617. The trigger pull on it is ungodly, has to be over 12lbs easy because it trips the max weight beep on my scale every time I've tried it. Its also been back to smith twice for light strikes last year, and I suspect they just cranked the strain screw even more. Only specific note from the repair order was "side plate repair" and it fires reliably as it sits ever since. But damn is that trigger heavy, now that I have 7lbs on the other gun and another comparison. Id like to recap/sanity check some of the stuff I've read on various other forums/threads and get your thoughts. 1)don't go with the extended firing pin, keep it stock. not needed 2)use the mass driver hammer from apex 3)not sure on going with reduced main/rebound, couldn't find conclusive info on what worked. 4)8lb DA pull should be realistic to light off most ammo, if not definitely on federal auto match (i coincidentally arrived on auto match with the stock gun because it was the least sticky to eject from the gun, so i have a lot of that) Any other nuggets of knowledge on doing lightening with a rimfire. I definitely feel like its more of a mixed bag and less of a sure thing than messing with centerfire.
  5. Ok well that was easy. I just noticed though that the midway item I linked above was .025 higher. Sdm was .250 and the stock below was .227. will it be noticeable having to adjust the rear to compensate? A taller front site would coincide with bringing my impacts down. Just wasn't sure if .025 morheight would really make me run out of adjustment room .
  6. So this would work, correct? In my case. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2170528009?pid=874812
  7. Oh I didn't think I had that type. I fiddled with it for a minute but couldn't get it to move. I'll give it another go
  8. Currently I am really enjoying shooting the vortex on my r8. Eventually I may go back to irons just for kicks. I really like those LPA rear sights , and may do a gold bead like you find on the 325 thunder ranch or many other examples. I'm a little bit apprehensive of doing some of the drilling required that I see in some of the how-to videos. Is there a factory option that is already drilled where I simply just have to punch a new Pin in? I see the SDM ones get pretty high praise but those require drilling. Or is drilling a requirement when messing with any front sight? Here is what I have stock. Also, even if I don't go gold bead and go fiber, is it all a mandatory drilling there too?
  9. He's got some impressive competition credentials
  10. So the stock one I measured is about 507 with about 403-405 under the head. It's also stainless and not blued. My exact model is not listed but I'm going to assume after reading one of the reviews that this should be the one to work? https://www.midwayusa.com/product/100449340?pid=651695 Mine
  11. I've been doing the set screw thing in on my r8 main spring after doing trigger work. However, I'd like to try out getting a few stock strain screws and filing to perfect fit for Desired spring tension. I bought one from Midway but after receiving it and actually reading the packaging of what I ordered, it was too short. Which main spring screw is needed for the 327 r8? Is it a standard length for all n frames?
  12. Ive got mine at 6lb 3oz to 6lb 8oz at the moment so we shall see how it goes. Did you run an extended pin? Assuming so since it came with the apex kit.
  13. What gun did you put the apex in? What is your trigger pull down to now? Range was closed today for some improvements so I'll have to wait to test out my improvements until Saturday after our bullseye match.
  14. Yes I did some blue loctite when I changed out the strain screw for the set screw, but I've done so much fiddling with it that i definitely need to generously coat it once I finalize my setup. Yea I'm still feeling this one out. I go to one then revert back to a lighter spring, then the next day go heavier haha. I just need to commit to one for a few weeks so I really know how it behaves.
  15. Wow 185 grain is pretty heavy for 38. I have settled on 147 blue bullets RN over federal primers with 4.4gr n32c. Love this load. So now I think im fiddling with what rebound spring suits me, and I dont know what I dont know.... so far after stock, Ive gone to the 14lb wolf, to the 13lb wolf, i tried a 12lb wolf tonight but that was no dice (massive short stroking), and now Im feeling out the included apex "competition" hammer. I may actually go back to the 14lb wolf. Im not sure what weight the included apex competition rebound is. What metric do you guys use to judge your liking of a rebound spring? Is it merely if you tend to short stroke or not? So far Ive tweaked it back to 7lbs but Im loading 100 rounds tomorrow for my usual "thursday night steel" and will see how low she goes. Then once I find a good spot, I will loctite my set screw. Possibly after that, I may file down my extra factory strain screw to an exacting length for the required pull and put that one in,
  16. Interesting. how did you hit that bottom edge without removing it? I have a few thin stones of varying grit but they wouldn't be able to fit in there.
  17. I think I felt it hitch a time or two, but maybe thats just me? I think its pretty damn smooth, partly complementing the action thats already got about 7000 rounds in it, so this hammer is the new kid of the bunch. I was thinking of giving a few passes on the stone for good measure. or should I not? It seems to cycle fully and fine though.
  18. First of all, big thanks to @Toolguy and @pskys2 for all of the helpful input and setting me on the right path in my "wolf main spring" thread from last week. I have received the apex hammer and I've dropped it in the gun. Ive also dropped in the extended firing pin (.508 in length, a bit longer than the stock which was about .498) It actually seems to fit pretty darn good out of the box. A couple questions on potentially fitting it though. I *think* a time or two I induced a very minor hitch out of it, but cant quite tell for sure. Fitting one of these and testing is pretty new to me still. However, when it comes to removing the pin, which side do I pound in from? Would I pound DOWN/IN from this perspective, or would I be tapping it from the other side TOWARDS the camera/sideplate? And just to be very clear in the face that I would stone, it would be ONLY the one with the arrow? The other face can just take some flitz polish and be good to go, right? I tried my 1/16th punch from both sides but didnt get too aggressive with it. I wasn't sure if I had to compress the spring in or let it extend out when driving out the pin as well. Thanks to everyone for chiming in and offering assistance, appreciate all your help big time! Uncharted waters for me, but Ive wanted to do this tuneup ever since I bought the gun close to 10 years ago! Man she looks mean now
  19. Thanks! Appreciate everyone's input. I think I am armed with the knowledge and now the physical tools to make this happen. In addition to some flitz and a polishing wheel, the stones that I have available range from 320 to 1200. Which do you suggest I start with on the bottom of the sear should I need fitting?
  20. Thanks for the input. I may be reaching back out when I have it sitting in front of me. So does the hammer block go into the parts bin with the apex hammer then? Also, just been assessing the picture of the apex hammer....you kept the sharp edges on the DA sear , and kept the same angles, but you just ground each face down a bit. Correct?
  21. Any input on which parts of the DA sear might require some attention? I currently dont have a stone, but every grit of sandpaper known to man. Will that suffice for the minor fitting the sear may take? Edit: just sprung for this one on Amazon. For the minor tasks I'll ever need to file things on my guns I figure it should do the trick rather than makeshifting with sandpaper. Wheeler Engineering Professional Gunsmithing File Set , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NW53M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_B93HXYHDMMRS5HQBXMA7 Got a couple stones and honing oil coming too
  22. I may consider the apex tactical hammer. That should be a drop in right? https://www.apextactical.com/k-l-frame-hammer-kit-1 edit: I suppose this would mean yes?
  23. Hmm not entirely sure what style sear this one has then, I never looked too closely. Its an R8 made i think around 2011 or so.
  24. Does a bobbed Hammer increase the reliability of setting off the primer? I was just thinking about possibly doing a bobbed hammer actually but I'm not sure if that would complicate my setup at all? Any recommendations? Are they pretty much just a drop in modification?
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