George

I hate that "my gun" isn't as ugly as it could be :-(

I have always wanted to try it. My reasons for not trying it are in order: - cost of new gear I would need (rifle, pistol and shotgun + their accessories). - extra ammo cost - variability of rules With my existing gear working in 3 divisions already, it just doesn't make sense for me to add a whole new ballgame right now however much fun it might be

Move to Arizona and you can own Class III firearms and shoot them in shirtsleeves in January

2011 Bay Area Rifle Championship BARC Webpage is now updated with some basic info. Prize Table will be equal to or better than last year thanks to the continued support of our match sponsors. More details will be posted as we get closer. Match Info: Location: Richmond Rod & Gun Club Date: Sunday, July 31, 2011. Match Fee: $80.00 Squadding: Pre-determined, possibly online sign-up style, still TBD Rules & Scoring: USPSA 2009 Rifle Divisions: Semi-Auto Limited, Tactical & Open - Manual Action Standard & Open Power Factor: Minor/Major as per USPSA Rifle Rules (150/320) Stages: 7 Minimum Rounds: 200+ (Estimated) Target Distances: 2 to 200 yards Target Types: Classic Paper, Reactive Steel, Frangible Steel & More! If you have any questions, please PM me. We look forward to seeing you and your favorite smokepole there.

Generally speaking, jacketed "should" be .355" and lead "should" be .356" for 9x19. I say "should" here because small variations will always be found. I have pushed .356 jacketed and .357 lead fairly fast down various 9x19 barrels to no ill effect. As mentioned, small variances across bullet brands and bbl's are to be expected. When the bullet obdurates from the pressure behind it, even a slightly small one will fill the bore and seal properly. A slightly large one will just not obdurate as much and pressures will be a little higher, not a problem if you are not running max loads.

No, because I have my cheek weld and finding it fast pretty well sorted out.

Straightwall pistol cases do not need lubing IF you use carbide dies. Dillon pistol dies are carbide. Some folks lube anyway, I do not. Lubing pistol cases is a personal preference and it makes no difference to the quality of the end product whether you do so or not. Bottleneck rifle cases (and the .357 SIG pistol case) require lubing with or without carbide dies.

JP CTR-02 upper with 20" 1:8 SS barrel with tank brake and large diameter JP handguard extra long to extend over gas block. JP Alloy LMOS bolt carrier and Leittner Weiss bolt. Armalite A2 lower with Sierra adjustable buttpad and Falcon ErgoGrip. Also installed is JP trigger system with speed hammer. TA-01 with JP reticle and JPoint red dot on JP tac-rail handguard adapter. 2x JP QD attachments on handguard for bipod and sling mounting.

Check the end cap, it may not be fully seated, or it may need some material trimmed. Trimming spring is fine too. IIRC you want 8-9" of spring showing when it's inserted but not compressed into the tube. The follower can also be thinned a little depending on what style it is. You could also add a washer under where the tube threads in. But, 7/8' is a lot to ask of these options IMHO, maybe shorter shot shells are in order here

I dunno, I like a little spring noise, when it stops you know you ran dry Coat the spring and buffer with lithium grease or heavy slide glide. Just enuff to coat things, not enuff to make it hydraulic back there. +1 to the JP springs being quieter.

Downloading for recoil reduction is fine as long as you make the minimum power factor for rifle competition (150 for minor). Make sure to chrono these mouse-phart .223 loads to make sure you aren't "cheating" the required power factor

I am not sure a specific specification matters here. Primers need to be seated until they "hit" the bottom of the primer pocket and then just a tad more so there is some very small amount of crush, but not much. Primers can vary a tiny bit in height from brand to brand so IMHO seating feel is most important to achieve this. Additionally, brass pocket depth can be a variable in mixed lot brass. I don't see any single specification being something you should strive for unless you use one lot of brass and primers exclusively AND take the time to measure it all out including accounting for the correct amount of crush.

Well, just got off the phone with Dillon and lo, and behold, I now have an RMA number and a committment to repair it for me at no charge! Wow is all I can say, Dillon just hit a home run customer-service wise :-) They said I have an old style motor assembly and after discussing the problem they agreed it was the starter capacitor. They said they have plenty of that part kicking around and they would be happy to do the repair for no charge, woohoo! Looks like the cost of shipping to them is all I will have to cover. Their no BS warranty is no BS after all :-)

Bump starting it did not work :-( I may try contact cleaner next, but at this point I do believe the starter capacitor is the issue. The motor burps when power is applied so it seems it might be OK. I am going to call Dillon today and see what they say.

OK, I will try kick-starting it when I get home tonight I am starting to think that a Lyman from Midway for under $70 may be better than paying Dillon for new parts. I will make my decision after I try some percussive maintenance on it tonight LOL Thanks to everyone for the help here :-)

OK, last night I went to process some brass I had been storing up. Pulled my trusty old Dillon tumbler (CV-2001) out of hibernation to do the job. It would not start. Verified AC power, then unloaded tumbler and gave wiring and motor a cursory look, nothing wrong to eye. Tried flipping the switch while listening and looking carefully and the motor just pulses like it wants to start but nada. No hum in motor housing so current isn't staying applied, you have to flick switch off, then back on to get the motor to pulse. I figure it's either the motor trying to draw too much current or it's the thermal protector module. It has sat unused for about 18 months in my basement on a sealed cement floor under the workbench. It is a dry space and temp never drops below the low 50's there. I am going to call Dillon later this week, I don't expect them to cover it as I know it only has a 1 year warranty and I have had it for over 5 years. Hopefully they will be able to sell me parts rather than needing to buy a new one. What is getting me here is it barely has any use on it, maybe in the range of 300 hours total runtime. Has anyone else had one go south on them with so few miles on it and/or just not work after not being used for a period of time? Thanks,

The JP A2 style front sight or the Armalite A2 style front sight would both be good choices fitted on the clamp-on sight block from JP. The JP one-piece clamp-on in the link above is also a good choice but does have the drawback of not being easily removable if you want to put optics on it once in a while. Loosening it up and rotating it would be a loser because you would have to re-establish adjustment every time you do that. BTW, the JP clamp-on sight "base" is just that, a sight mounting block only, not a gas block (as pictured above on my rifle). This is a great thread! I'm in the same boat with arsoncop9. I have a 16" VTAC upper that I would like to equip with iron sights and was considering mounting the JP one-piece clamp on front sight to get a longer sight radius until I read about the clamp on sight base. My question is, if I go with the sight base, can I mount a flip up f/s onto the sight base? I plan on installing a flip up rear as well because I eventually want to run an optic / scope on it one day. Yes as long as the sight was designed to clamp onto picatinny rail you are good to go. Is this the part you are referring to? http://www.brownells...Black_Stainless Yes

The JP A2 style front sight or the Armalite A2 style front sight would both be good choices fitted on the clamp-on sight block from JP. The JP one-piece clamp-on in the link above is also a good choice but does have the drawback of not being easily removable if you want to put optics on it once in a while. Loosening it up and rotating it would be a loser because you would have to re-establish adjustment every time you do that. BTW, the JP clamp-on sight "base" is just that, a sight mounting block only, not a gas block (as pictured above on my rifle). This is a great thread! I'm in the same boat with arsoncop9. I have a 16" VTAC upper that I would like to equip with iron sights and was considering mounting the JP one-piece clamp on front sight to get a longer sight radius until I read about the clamp on sight base. My question is, if I go with the sight base, can I mount a flip up f/s onto the sight base? I plan on installing a flip up rear as well because I eventually want to run an optic / scope on it one day. Yes as long as the sight was designed to clamp onto picatinny rail you are good to go.

Mono-podding on your mag should be legal for all divisions, in all matches. I am unsure if vertical fore-grips should be regulated either. In a way I feel they are self-regulating already, you have one on the rifle, you are already penalizing yourself

Here are all the scoring ring sizes for all the targets used in HighPower (reduced 100 yard through 1000 yard). http://www.tngbbs.co...p/Section4.html Sure wish I could hold MOA across the course. Just squeaked an expert card myself when I was into HighPower way back when, can still just squeak a low Expert score in if I don't screw the pooch too badly anywhere across the course LOL Shooting a really good score in this sport is no mean feat by any means

Remember there are no stupid questions. Now what is a Donut of Death? Eotech Holosight or ACOG w/ donut reticle. I am pretty sure the reference here is to the ACOG though. The monicker is based on the reticle being a circle in a circle.

Ayup, +1

The dongle you refer to is what is known as a video capture device. They are typically USB (2.0) nowadays but also available in FireWire interface. Many will work fine on USB 1.0, some will not. TigerDirect is a good place to find a variety of them. http://www.tigerdire...pture%20Devices They all come with software for editing and DVD burning. A basic capture device always requires a software application to manage the capture. They don't operate on their own. You will want to make sure you have at least Windows XP and a USB 2.0 port. If your computer is older and only supports USB 1.0 then you may have trouble with the system dropping out while capturing because USB 1.0 may not pass the data fast enough depending on the device in question. If you are running Windows I recommend the Pinnacle Dazzle device for $29 http://www.tigerdire...8925&CatId=1428 If you are on a Mac you will not need the software that comes with the device as Apple iMovie does the job of capturing and iDVD does the burn back out to DVD. Not all devices will work with Mac but most do even if they don't say so. Also, this process will take a lot longer than the VHS DVR recorder combo does. The video capture device captures the video at real time so first you have to play it, then you have to load it into the editing software, then prep it for DVD burning and then you use the software it came with to burn the DVD (assuming your PC has a DVD-R burner, if not you are shjt outa' luck). Burning a 1 hour DVD can take up to 2 hours depending on the speed of your PC and your DVD burner. Basically you are looking at a several step process and up to 3 hours to convert one hour of VHS to DVD this way. The VHS / DVD recorder method does the job in one pass at the running time of the VHS source video plus a few extra minutes to finalize the DVD disc. Basically a little over an hour per hour of source footage and a pretty simple one step process. In other words, my vote goes to buying a VHS DVD combo because it's a whole lot simpler process :-)

SMK 69's are nice but not needed for the range you are looking at. A good 55gr will do the job nicely to 325+ yards as long as it is a boat tail, not a flat base. If you get good groups with the 62's you are using, and you know where they hit downrange why change anything.

At 10.4.11 you are good to go for now and when you do upgrade it will be fairly painless. The only thing you are missing not being in 10.5 (Leopard) is Safari 5.0. It works a lot better with modern web content than the 4.0 version that runs in Tiger. But it still won't help with HD web video. Only an Intel machine will help with that.