Michael303

I have these. They're fantastic.

While I agree the MD can't prevent shooters from doing unsafe things, the way I read the situation, the MD was directing the shooter during both of the issues. The MD saw the shooter flag themselves and failed to DQ them and then the MD failed to instruct the shooter to unload and show clear which lead to the DQ when the shooter came up again. To clarify, I'm assuming the MD is also the RM as is common with most level one matches.

Sounds like a cluster f on the MDs part. If the competitor swept himself that should be a DQ so I'm not sure how he got to come back. If he didn't get the competitor, who is new and relying heavily on the direction of the person giving commands, to unload and show clear at the time he stopped him I'd say that's mostly on whoever was giving the commands.

I'm looking to start reloading 300 Blackout. I'm thinking I'll just use converted brass rather than do it myself to start. If I get the short trim tool head for the 1100 can the short stations be utilized for reloading like the regular tool head or can you only use the trimming stuff in the short stations? If I can use it, I figured I'd grab the short tool head to reload and I'll have it to start converting should the time come. Any feedback is appreciated.

Oops, you're right. I was thinking of the Shadow 2. Edit: I don't think anyone will be surprised to see SA triggers made legal in CO in the near future with the way things are going.

It think it depends on which and how many calibers you regularly load and if you have to run them through the press twice or not. One big advantage with the 1100 is you can add a bullet dropper without having to seat and crimp at the same time. The bullet dropper will make it significantly faster.

Agreed. If it was me, I'd go with the TSO and shoot carry optics. With the current rule set, that's about as good of a gun as it gets in carry optics. If you want to shoot open from there it's another level of commitment and there aren't many competitive guys (or girls) running a $2k open gun. All that being said, if you just want to shoot whatever gun is currently blowing your hair back and open is the only class it fit in then do that. The reality is the gun is only a small factor in how well you perform in USPSA.

I started doing this a while ago too. Mostly so I could just get close before dialing it in with ammo at the range. After doing it a few times I found it was so close that I don't even bother confirming any longer, same as you.

Thank you for all the tips. I've acquired about half of the stuff you've mentioned. The reamers and chamfer cutters will probably be next. The gage blocks and pins sound handy too. Thanks for the feedback. Most of the tooling is provided in the shop but I have a message out to the instructor to get some further suggestions. Thanks, I'll take a look at these. That makes sense. I have my share of tools that sounded like good ideas but I've never used.

I'm about to buy some endmills for a machine shop class that I'm taking in a few weeks followed by a race gun building class later this summer. Right now I've just got 1/8" to 1/2" square end mills in 1/16" increments in my cart. Are there any other must-have or nice-to-have end mills or other tooling that I should pick up while I'm at it? Any feedback is appreciated.

Ok, that makes sense now how the barrel could be adjusted. Thanks. My understanding of micro laser welding the rails is that it doesn't impart much heat and that it's cool enough to touch immediately after. It's explained pretty well in this article. https://americanhandgunner.com/our-experts/micro-welding/ I'm not sure what the builders cost would be to fit a new frame but I was quoted 100-125 for laser welding a frame. That being said, considering the price of the gun a new frame might be the right thing for the builder to do.

Yes, the frame is the same just with a single stack grip?

Help me with what I'm missing. Isn't filling up the slide ways to a proper clearance the thing that needs to happen to eliminate the play? What does fitting a new frame achieve that welding up and remilling the existing frame doesn't? Either way, I'm assuming it's tricky to maintain the barrel fit when the rail dimensions change which was my primary point. Is there a way to maintain the lower lug to slide stop fit when they do?

Would you mind sharing the text from that full conversation? I've had good experience with their plates but that seems a bit silly.

That's great. I'm curious how it'll be fixed. The only option I could see is adding material to the rails and milling them back down to proper clearance but that could affect the lower barrel lug fit. Be sure to check the barrel to slide stop fit when it's returned and confirm how much contact you're getting.

I definitely watch everyone I can just because it's good data but for the most part it works best for me to stick to my original plan unless I see someone doing something significantly better.

That's definitely fair. It's disappointing that it would even leave the shop like that though. Unfortunately I don't see how that could be fixed properly without doing something like microwelding and recutting the frame rails.

In my G34 (5" barrel) I was running the 147g BBI FP with 3.1g of N320, 1.14 coal, and mixed brass. It worked great and makes PF consistently. The 3.1g load had trouble cycling my G19 with a small comp so I went up to 3.3g so I could run one load in all my Glocks reliably.

I'm not a big 45SS guy but if I were to buy one it would probably be a Volkmann. He's pretty popular on the 1911 boards but to be fair that crowd buys a lot of safe queens.

Can someone clarify the difference between the MBX 140mm and 141.25mm mags please? Do they both use the same tube and just use different length base pads to make up the total length? Does this also apply to the 170mm and 171.25mm mags? Thanks.

Some of the parts are fussy to get back together but it's not that complicated and there's plenty of help on Youtube.

Me too.

If you were starting with just MBX 9/38 tubes, what brand springs and follower would you pick? Just MBX, or Grams or some other combo? To clarify, I have to jump through hoops to get complete mags that hold more than 15 rounds in my state but I should be able to order all the parts to "repair" some mags so can choose any guts I want. Any feedback is appreciated.

I'll be taking my first machine shop classes this summer so some of the footprints will be a tall ask for me. It would really simplify things if optics had flat fronts instead of the typical radius. The Atlas system seems like a good option. It doesn't put the optic as deep in the slide as I'd like though.

Based on the feedback that's been coming in, the Timney trigger is noticeably better than the JG trigger and a good bit cheaper too. Now might be a good time to sell the JG trigger because the Timney trigger is on track to become the Glock competition trigger. That'll make it hard to recover what's been spent on the JG trigger in the used market as time goes on. Maybe it doesn't matter to you but I think it's worth considering.