Michael303

Springs are cheap. Why not just buy a lighter one to try? I've run a 4lb springs on CCI primers without issue.

The quick release pin on the Hennings are awesome when you need to run a brush through them. I wish they'd update their Glock extensions to add that feature.

This is a scam website, folks. Google it up.

Thanks. How about the horizontal and vertical surfaces that touch the radius?

Thanks for all the insight on the details. Much appreciated.

Thanks for the feedback. Doing the radius by hand seems inelegant compared to milling but I can't think of any other way that wouldn't require a cnc or wider cut to mill the radius. It makes sense that the radius isn't a contact surface but are the horizontal and vertical surfaces adjacent to it contact/impact surfaces or is there supposed to be some clearance?

Is anyone familiar with the specs and milling the Lissner ramp cut into a frame? Most of it looks pretty straight forward but I'm particularly interested in how the radius is done. Maybe my Google-fu is lacking but I haven't found much info or even pictures. Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks for the feedback. If you have some pics of the gun you built that you can share that would be awesome. Do you shoot it in 3-gun or USPSA? I checked the Atlas site and it looks like the Erebus has a 4.6" barrel with a govt. slide cut back to 4.25" and the Nemesis has a 5" barrel with a govt. slide cut back 0.4" I'd probably build out at the Erebus dimensions since it's already been done.

I'll see if CHP does the Dawson cut. I've had a few of their plates. I'm not interested in a dovetail mount but I'll be starting with a blank slide so there'll be no existing dovetail anyway.

It's possible but I'm assuming the comps and sight blocks on the Nemesis and Erebus are just the ones they sell as accessory parts.

I'm probably jumping ahead quite a bit in my learning journey here but I've been looking at some guns with sight blocks and flush comps and I'm curious to know more about the process of how they're built and how they interact with the barrel, slide, and guide rod. In particular, I was looking at these Atlas blocks and comps and how they would fit up, what size of guide rod, and what kind of plug you'd use.

I'm going to build a gun later this year on a bald slide so I'm trying to catalog the optic plate systems that are currently available for 1911s. At the moment I know of the Dawson/STI, Nighthawk, and Chambers plate systems. Are there any others that I'm missing? As I understand the Chambers system can be milled on a manual mill. Can someone tell me if any of the other systems can be milled without a CNC mill? I haven't seen any of them in person. Any feedback is appreciated.

Oof...

Agreed. With that in mind I just signed up for Casey Reed's training program at www.caseyreedshooting.com. It's $15/month so it's a little closer to "volunteer" than PSTG. It gives you a daily practice routine based on your skill level so there's no sorting through drills trying to decide what you should be working on which I liked. I did just sign up today so I can't speak to the effectiveness yet but I figured it was worth consideration.

I'll message you.

I had a kaboom recently and was happy I had a poly mag release. I use the Ghost Tac mag release. The mag release split in half and blew the mag out the bottom. Had the mag release been metal it might not have broken and could have directed the blast in more destructive and dangerous directions.

I'd go for lighter pull. In my experience it benefits accuracy more than pretravel.

Thanks for sharing. The premium isn't too ridiculous to skip the wait. Just hope I don't miss the backlight using it indoors.

There seems to be some confusion about the trigger safety affecting the total pull weight but it doesn't so it's tough to say what his trigger was really pulling at.

Have you had any issue with reset like the Johnny Glocks video?

This video has a great breakdown of how the trigger works and he even used an armorer's plate to get some good shots of the sear in action. I feel more reassured about the safety now. Johnny spoke very highly of it and the only bad thing was it didn't reset occasionally. I feel a little bad for him because it's probably a better trigger for almost half the price. I hope he's successful in tuning these triggers.

Can the sear be pushed down independent of the trigger bar moving back? That's a big part of the drop safety of the oem bar since the housing prevents the bar from moving down when it's in the forward position. Do you have an armorer's back plate so you can try pushing it down when it's cocked?

No one would call me a big guy but I'm definitely not skinny. You might find you'll have to try a few different holsters before you find one that's more comfortable. I started with a sidecar style holster like you're looking at and sold it almost immediately. I found it inconvenient and uncomfortable in every way. I have no idea why so many people love that style holster. If I was going to try another sidecar style holster I'd probably try the actual Trex Sidecar since it doesn't have the hinge. My theory is that its rigid shape might actually help it conceal without the wings and crap that are necessary on hinged holsters. After trying a few things I found a simple AIWB holster with a wedge on the back side to be most comfortable. Then throw on a Snake Eater Tactical IWB mag pouch if I want to carry the extra mag. Those things should be way more popular than they are. That set up is a much smaller volume of s#!t stuffed in your waistband. Your experience may be different though. I think trying different holsters and getting used to it poking you in new places is just the reality.

I started with a G34 for carry optics but picked up a Legion last year and added the Gray Guns $150 trigger kit to see what all the fuss is about. I liked the way the Legion felt in the hands and the trigger was better than the Glock but I felt the higher bore axis took a lot away from the advantages it had over the Glock. In the end I sold the Legion and went back to the Glock. On paper I think the Legion is probably the better gun but I think either would be a fine choice though so I'd say pick the one you like to look at more. Regarding the Glock trigger, I know a lot of people here get wet for the Johnny Glocks trigger and I thought it was really nice for a Glock trigger when I had one but in my opinion a light connector and 4# striker spring is 95% as good and can be had for under 40 bucks. There's no magic to be unlocked with a Glock trigger and that extra 5% isn't worth $250.

Thanks for the info. 50/day sounds really inexpensive. Is it an outdoor range with a lot of bays? Minimizing member impact is a priority for us too. We're an indoor pistol club with just two bays so at least one needs to be open at any time but this shouldn't be a big challenge since we shut one range down for USPSA and IDPA matches four times a month among other activities.