ajblack

+1 on that. Once I started traveling to matches with friends I noticed some of the guys wearing flip flops to the range, then changing into range shoes in the parking lot and throwing them back on after the match. It sounds like such an obvious thing to do but I never thought to do this until I saw others. It honestly does make such a big difference on the drive home. Nowadays my range shoes live in a shopping bag because they're so dirty from all the range trips.

As long it's from the factory it's ok (like a Glock 34). According to the docs it should make weight and the dimensions looks good for the box. I'd like to see someone who gets their hands on one to take a pic in the box with the magwell (for ESP).

I agree, and this is why I find it important to pull a bullet whenever adjusting crimp and verify that the coating is not being scraped. Crimp can adjusted for maximizing efficiency and accuracy just like OAL and powder weight when you're forming your own load data. So what's the problem with a load that shoots clean, has great accuracy, and is reliable if the bullet has a measurable ring in it? There's all kinds of of coated bullets out there that retain the lube groove and I don't see any issues with those either as far as having a ring is concerned

Theres a lot of good info on this forum, but you sound like you're new to reloading so make sure to start on the low end and work your way up. Overall length and gun make/model will affect your results with the same bullet and powder combo. Especially with a fast powder like TG there's not much room between safe ammo and overpressure ammo.

This topic has been covered to death in this forum, but some very common loads with TG are 3.2 grains under a 147 or 4 grains under a 124. These are for coated bullets, which you didn't specify what you were using. Also, like any reloading question, it will vary with your specific gun/environment/OAL that you can get away with

I guess different strokes paint the world, I've learned that this crimp is what gives me the best accuracy and SD with my bullet and powder combo. I would just reiterate to the OP to find what works best for them with their equipment

I'm pretty sure that would constitute disabling the firing pin block safety, since the SP01 lower will still have the sear as LuvDog has said. If you took a regular SP01 and just removed the FPB from the upper then that would also be a no-go. Gun inspection people at a match ask what model the gun is for weight reasons, so I would think starting off with 'Well it's a Shadow...kind of' would perk up the ears of the over zealous safety officer

I've never measured the case itself,but I meaure a pulled bullet whenever I adjust the crimp die. Find the ring in the bullet that was made by the case mouth and measure the diameter. I like that ring to be .003 less than the diameter of an uncrimped bullet. However, as this thread shows, there's plenty of people who don't even like to leave a ring in the bullet at all. Like most things reloading related you will find what works best for you

I've used plenty of bullseye for 45 Colt, specifically using a 200 grain Missouri RNFP. I've moved on to powders with a better case fill,, but bullseye worked pretty well with a strong crimp

That's what I was thinking when I first heard about dry firing revolvers. Makes sense to me

I just got my new Apex firing pin in and replaced it last night. First thing I noticed is that the stock firing pin didn't actually break in half like I had thought but it had a couple chips in the face which I thought was odd. That also explains why I had intermittent light strikes instead of a totally non-functioning gun. Also, I was surprised by how much longer the extended pin is as compared to a stock firing pin. The extended pin basically looks like it goes right to the edge of the chamber during dry fire. I've switched to snap caps for dry fire with this new setup.

Pick up an extra slide stop and throw it in your range bag. Some day you'll break the one in the gun and be relieved to know that you've got an extra on hand.

The amount of Sport Pistol used in production is interesting. I'd expect to see that number grow next year. It seems like most people I shoot production with have converted to the powder.

I see, and you dryfire without snap caps? I usually don't use snapcaps and I just want to make sure that the typical warm up dryfire in a safe area before a match isn't going to cause problems

The stock firing pin in my 686 SSR finally broke today so I've ordered a couple replacements from Apex Tactical. I've read that extended firing pins shouldn't be dry fired without snap caps and I've also seen a video where Jerry Miculek broke a firing pin in a match and blamed himself for dry firing the gun beforehand. Is this true of all extended firing pins or just a certain make/model? I don't see how the extended pin would behave differently from a stock one in regards to dry fire but maybe I'm missing something.

Some people will say that 9mm doesn't need any crimp and others will say that the crimp should measure .001 - .003, but the important thing is that you're not cutting the coating. Luckily, 9mm is pretty forgiving with crimp so even if you don't have an extra station to crimp separately, you should be able to back off the crimp until you're just removing the bell of the case and still have consistent ammo. The same cannot be said for some other calibers.

I took the measurements provided by mchapman and found a hole plug that works great from Amazon. I'm not sure about the rules around linking directly to products, but if you go to Amazon and search for "WIDGETCO 3/16" and 5mm Black Hole Plugs" you will find them. I just set up one of my Comp III's with one of these hole plugs for testing and I've been really happy, plugging the trigger really does advance the timing of the speed loader significantly.

Excellent, thanks!

Do you know what exactly that small plug is called and what the size it is? I've been looking around everywhere for a small part like this but I haven't been able to find a plug that small

I would make sure your ammo plunk tests fine as well. If the round is slightly too long it could be barely out of battery and feel like an inconsistent trigger which sounds like what you're describing.

I've used trailboss in the past for 38 special but I find that the higher pressures generated can make extraction a little stiffer than thr loads with different powders. I'm going to test out some new loads using Alliant Sport Pistol in a couple weeks. I've been using this powder for 9mm for a while now and I've been really impressed. It would be nice to alleviate the unburnt powder issue.

Cutting down the speedloader helps prevent the cartridges from getting stuck in the loader when releasing into the cylinder. The speedloader can move a bit during loading and cause the cartidridge to bind up if there is extra room. I cut the loaders down as thin as possible (thinner than the pictures in this thread) to clear easier.

I shoot win 231 primarily for revolver and I do notice some unburnt powder in the crane area, but the cases are clean. I think a lot of that had to do with the solid taper crimp I use.

I haven't had this happen with my CZ 97, but my first shadow had a factory plastic guide rod that was really warped. I always thought it looked weird but it never caused a problem. I did end up replacing it with a Cajun stainless guide rod after 5000 rounds or so mostly just because I got sick of looking at it.

It's funny, I've found with the new(ish) 105 pf minimum the cases don't even expand and they drop free without hitting the ejector. It's not something I would count on, but I definitely missed the ejector in matches before and ended up fine