R.Elliott

So the complete solution for both guns: A little more polish in both chambers. Aftecs both with new springs. Some slight magazine feed lip adjustments to assist feeding. Shorten ejectors to. 250". Primary issue was the chamber. Everything is hunky-dory now in both guns.

No I don't know those values. All I know is that it was headspaced and the chamber polished. I'll email him and ask about it though.

No, it was done by the guy who fitted the barrel for me.

Yes, headspaced and chamber reamed and polished. Boiling it all down I think I will shorten the round down to 1.165" and see if I can sweet-spot the extractor. As noted before, both of these guns ran perfectly in .38 SC with Aftecs and I've got no problem tuning those or any other extractor. Seems the feed problem may be related to 9mm case rim and groove dimensional variances, but I definitely do not want to get into having to sort brass by headstamp. If i have to do that I might as well go back to Super. It's very weird.

It's not hanging on the ramp; it's stopping just before going into battery. Round is under the extractor and cammed all the way up.

Interesting, so the way this conversation is going it looks like my next move is to shorten the loads down a bit and slightly de-tune the Aftec. Much appreciate all the feedback.

New barrels, AET's. Sure hope I don't have to replace those. Will look for the Atlas stuff. Aftecs are new with new springs. EGW extractors have been fitted and polished per usual protocols for 9mm extractors.

That sounds pretty nice. No issues on ejection? I've wondered about loading shorter but the gun ran beautifully in 38SC @ 1.235" and of course I was aiming for a longer oal to keep pressures down. You would think the shorter round would make the breakover too steep but.....perhaps the tapered case changes the geometry enough. I notice a lot of folks here are loading to 1.65" or 1.70" I guess maybe I should eliminate that as a variable.

Good morning all: I have recently made the decision to switch to 9mm major from .38 Supercomp. I simply cannot handle the cost of the brass or the headache of sourcing it anymore in Canada and while I have been reticent to make the change, everything I'm reading on-line (mostly here) seems to indicate that the magic ju ju has been worked out now so it's safe to proceed. However, I'm having issues that are stumping me and could use some assistance from the enos hive-mind. I really want get this sorted out before the major match season really gets underway so I can focus on shooting and not on equipment. Tried searching but I'm not finding what I'm looking for. I have recently converted both of my Open guns to 9mm major and I am having trouble getting them dialed in to run correctly. In primary gun the issue is inconsistent extraction/ejection. I end up with an empty in the chamber and a double feed, only intermittently. Most brass ejects about two feet to the right with some just falling out of the gun. Primary gun: 5.5" Sheuman hybrid barrel with no ports, 3 port comp, I've tried Aftec and EGW extractors so far, SVI 140 and 170 mags. RTS2 on DoubleTap mount. 8lb standard Wolf recoil spring and 17lb mainspring. 170's caused the most failures at last match and the do sit higher than the 140's. They were bringing the top round in the stack and the mag feed lip into contact with the ejector. This has since been clearanced for top round and mag clearance but the problem persists. Backup gun is set up the same way but in addition to extraction and ejection failures I'm also getting stoppages when going into battery. Last .25" it will stop. All rounds have been chamber checked and roll sized. All punk in both barrels no problem. Load is: 8.0 gr. HS6 125 gr. Zero 1.175" oal 170 power factor 9maj2.rv

Stock parts will last just fine. There's absolutely nothing wrong with them. Sub-2 lb pull is no problem on stock sti fire control parts.

Try not to press down on the safety. Just let your thumb rest on top of the base knuckle of your support hand with the safety sandwiched in between. If you find you are not disengaging the safety consistently you may need to take some metal off to clearance for your knuckles.

You can make another thin plastic shim from an empty powder jug and place it under the existing shim.

I just bought a tech well. I really like it. And coming from Open it has that same feel of throwing a sausage down a hallway.

I ditched my steel grip as well. I found it did dampen recoil but it made the gun feel dead in the hand. Plus, more mass = more inertia and more momentum once moving. Reloads are more forgiving with polymer grip as well.

Make a tight fist around a magazine with your index finger sticking out. As tight as you can hold without shaking. While holding this tight fist, curl the finger in and out like you are running the trigger and observe the thumb. I'll bet that if the fist is sufficiently clamped there will be no sympathetic movement in your thumb or any other digits.

How about "bulls eyeing?"

It's your grip. Grip the gun like it owes you money. Steady-state, maximum grip pressure eliminates the tendency to milk the gun down in the firing process.

Best load I've tried so far with a 124 is 9.6 grains VV N105 for 170 pf (my gun). Best by a wide margin and unfortunately expensive as hell and hard to get where I am. But if you can get it, you will love it.

Very cool. Squad 14. I'll be wearing something that says "Ontario" on it.

Likewise on Friday. Can't wait. If you happen to notice a couple of guys stumbling around who look kind of Canadian, please say hello. It's always great to put faces to some of the great conversationalist on this site.

38 SC brass is currently going for $250.00/1000 here (Ontario Canada). I'm not really crazy about the idea of switch to 9 major but at these prices I'm seriously thinking about it. 9mm brass is 1/10th the price.

MOB super coarse grip tape. Best stuff I've found so far.

There are plenty of great sandpaper grip tapes. Talon, Dawson, etc. I love all of them. The only problem is how to make them stay in place... I grip really hard and the weak hand palm would shift the tape after just 1 dry fire session, especially on a not so smooth surface like that of the Xtreme grip panels. So far I find the only way is to apply super blue on the back of the tape. If your grip is clean and de-greased when you apply it, this stuff sticks and stays on better than any tape I've used. It doesn't shift around. The stuff I have on my grip right now was put on last summer and no shifting so far and I grip pretty hard too. Arms like and orangutan. For the different tapes that do shift, I've always just run a bead of super glue gel around the inside of the outer edge. Just peel it up about 1/4" all the way around, run the bead and tamp it down with a flat screwdriver (ask me how I know not to use your fingers) and you're all set. It won't come off till you take it off with acetone.

This is far and away the best stuff I've used. Builds calluses on your hands like crazy. https://www.daddiesboardshop.com/mob-coarse-grit-black-11-inch-width-griptape

May I ask how recent that Bedell build is? It looks like a newer comp design than the one I have. The gun was built last June. Yes it's a new comp, he has been using them for a year now Excellent, he must have started using these shortly after he built mine. Thanks.