matteekay

Many, many, many other things would wear out before your cylinder shooting 155+ PF .40. Besides, S&W Ti cylinders have had a tendency to literally rot in the past, so I'm not sure that they'd be my go-to. There's a few revolvers that would work: GP-100 in 10mm S&W 646 (.40) S&W 610 Chiappa Rhino 40DS (.40) I shoot a Rhino and have done very well with it. The primary downside is there's literally zero aftermarket support; I've had to do customization through machinists (like our beloved Protocall Design). Chiappa USA is also limited in terms of parts - they only have whatever Italy decides to ship and it's often feast or famine. Of the Smiths, I'd choose the 646 over the 610. It's an L-Frame so the cylinder is smaller and will reload faster. The 610 will require more precision when dropping in moons as the cylinder diameter is greater. You increase the chance of landing the bullet noses between charge holes, and as any serious revo shooter will tell you, reload speed and accuracy is really king. On that note... unless you're fully set up for .40 and don't reload .45, there's no compelling reason to choose a 646 or 610 over a 625. It's less expensive and the charge holes on the 625 are so large and close together that you can reload the darn thing from space.

It's definitely a lot harder to game in USPSA since you'd have to shoot for a specific score on six classifiers instead of one. The other wrinkle is that IDPA renews your classification whenever you compete in sanctioned matches, so you can retain the lower classification just by showing up.

I agree. I'm the opposite - I've tanked the 5x5 a few times but punch up when it comes to real stages. This is why I prefer the USPSA rolling average approach; it feels more "true" to the level of the shooter in most cases. I get why IDPA can't do that and I'm not necessarily arguing for it. Just plus-one-ing your assertion that the 5x5 feels all-or-nothing and not particularly accurate.

I have three, and I think I fall somewhere in the middle compared to the other opinions voiced here. All three examples I have feature good retention. Having said that, I have friends with RHT holsters that are borderline dangerously loose (such as a 1911 that can pivot forward and backward about 30 degrees from center even when the tension screws are tight). I think the reason to choose a RHT over another manufacturer is the level of customization available for a relatively low cost in an acceptable amount of time. If you're using a common gun that the big companies make kydex/plastic for (Bladetech, Blackhawk, CompTac, etc) then you can spend less and get the product faster by going with one of those. I just have a bunch of oddball stuff . Full-rail 1911 in white Kryptek over pink kydex: Full rail 1911 with an X300u (don't ask about the mag release...): Grand Power K100 with suppressor sights (this one has the best molding and the best fit out of all of them; it's also the one that no one else makes holsters for):

I had my K100 done by Patriot Defense and I couldn't be happier. Well-priced, quick turnaround, and even called to let me know that they couldn't sink the sight as far as they'd like due to the firing pin block and made sure I was okay with that. They still got it pretty darn deep, lol. The irons are suppressor sights from a CZ P10. I measured the dovetails and these were the closest; I had to file the front sight and add a channel for the retaining pin, and then shim the rear sight to get pressure on the dovetail cut. So far, so good. The magazine extension is a Taylor Freelance, the grip tape is from Springer, and the light is from China and totally isn't real (but works well enough) .

SNS Casting and Black Bullets international have the same weight/profile and they only list what's in stock. I've ordered from both over the last few months and had a tracking number on the next business day every time. I ordered from them for the first time a few weeks back. I'm a diehard SNS fan, but Ibeji were the only ones with the same 200gr .40 bullet in a different color (I'm not convinced that I'm smart enough to differentiate my .40's from my 10's without help). They shipped within a week for whatever that's worth.

Nope - he's Mark Chapman. Some would say an upgrade over Pat Jones! (see you Sunday, buddy )

If you really want to cheat, you can even practice strong hand / weak hand shooting in advance - they'll never see it coming! I've said that I'd shoot a big match in Florida again (makes it easy to glue a Disney trip on for the kids). A lot will depend on what's going on with COVID and the like but I'm about 50/50 on it right now.

I'm a MD for IDPA and USPSA matches and I cannot disagree with this assessment. Doubling back to the original topic - my matches adhere very closely to the rulebook, as do most of the ones I attend. I think we happen to be lucky in our area with a number of experienced SO's and newer ones who are willing to look things up. The IDPA rulebook doesn't do MD's/stage designers/SO's many favors, though, as it's often ambiguous on rulings and requires interpretation... which is the opposite of what a rulebook should be.

My understanding is that their response is correct. The X-Cal and X-Trim have the lighter/better trigger group due to the lack of firing pin block; all other versions of the MK12 have the FPB and are a little heavier. Please post if you turn up something different, though!

Well, as someone who shoots 147gr exclusively, that's a bummer. I'm sure someone will make barrels for it if it gets popular but that's definitely a strike against it vs. a regular Glock.

I think you summed that up well. A lot of things could be made unambiguous by adding a simple definition (or about five words of clarification) but we're left to do it on our own in many cases.

Appreciate the reply. What's bugging me is I don't think this individual could quote a rule in the current rulebook to support the latter assessment as I don't think one exists.

I agree 100%, and to clarify - no one was trying to penalize him (nor was he penalized). I literally said to him "You're good - I just want to double check the rule on that later" and here we are. Just trying to be a good SO. Too many do things from memory and are often either quoting the old rulebook or are just completely wrong.

That's a good point. 3.4.7 specifically addresses "dropping" a loaded device with ammunition. It's like the tac reload has been erased if you read all of 3.4.

Is there? Without a clear definition I'm not sure how you make that argument. Edit: Universal "you", not "you"-you. Voicing my frustrations with the current rulebook.

We had a stage with a non-shooting action (apparently, also allowed) that involved dragging a dummy to a designated area. The stage description explicitly forbade re-holstering. As someone who had to SO it, I actually would have preferred a safe re-holster vs all of the times people nearly flagged themselves trying to do it weak-handed, but wasn't clear on the legality.

Is there any rule that prevents a shooter from re-holstering during a course of fire? 7.G explicitly legalizes it for PPDS but I don't see anything allowing/disallowing it for everyone else.

We had a new shooter today who performed a tac reload on a stage. He finished the stage with the magazine he'd taken out still in his hand. My instinct is that the mag should be returned to a pouch or his pockets prior to completing the stage to avoid a PE but I'm having a hard time finding the specific rule that supports it. The closest I can find is: 3.4.7 Dropping a loaded magazine or speed loader/moon clip does not incur a penalty as long as the shooter retrieves and properly stows the loaded magazine or speed loader/moon clip prior to the firing of the last shot in the string of fire. I can't find a definition of "properly stows" anywhere in the rules. Can someone point me in the right direction for what is and isn't legal in this case?

Awesome! I legitimately have your grips on all of my 1911's. Welcome aboard!

Drop me a PM - I can help with that . And I now own not one but TWO whole N-frames! So that's... progress?

This is great advice. I'm curious - what do you think is the ideal zero for IDPA (or PCC's in general)?

I had no idea they were different. This is awesome info!

I found some of this .22 WMR snake-shot for real cheap so I picked up a few boxes. I'm going to pattern it next time I'm at an outdoor range and see if it's viable for slithery varmints.

Send it to Protocall and have it welded. That's what I did when my crane broke the same way and dumped the cylinder out of the gun, lol. I still reload weak-handed but I try to be a little gentler on the opening and closing. Mostly, I just make sure my crane screw is tight. Some people will also replace the spring-loaded screw with an old-style solid one that's been filed to fit.