rustybayonet

I started with a green machine. Now with my 550, it's not work, it is my zen time.

I think the real question is: Do I reload to shoot or do I shoot to reload?

I do r&d for the auto industry. The beam scale is the most accurate. But since I am a plinker in real life, I use a digital. I have noticed on most digital scales where you place your cup or how the powder sits in the cup will change the reading by upto .1 gn

I use a dillon 550 and you can catch 380s in the first station, but I have ran a makorov (9mm x 18) all the way thru and found it with my case gauge. Not sure if it would work in a 9mm but oal was too long for a mak to fit it.

Question answered

I'm a 550 guy, but wouldn't oal and crimp work between base plat and tool head? And have nothing to do with the shell plate. It works that way on the 550.

Normally if it is dated it would be military ammo.

I noticed on my 550 all it takes is cleaning and proper adjustment of the shell plate it runs smooooth.

I hope he's not in my squad.

Lol

Frog lube seems to be more of a bore butter and is used to season the metal, it takes some work to use it correctly. I use 10w30 for storage and a spray lubricant for everyday cleaning. I will be getting some slide glide soon.

I will have to give that a try.

You can make your own bore butter too. Use bees wax, crisco (the cream in the can), and olive oil. Not sure on amounts, I just play with it till its the way I like it.

Not sure how it would work with bullets. The toys you build mazes for marbles have a Y that lets a marble down one side, then the other. Although it may not work if the tube is full.

Resetting dies will not be a big deal. I just shoot the classics, M1 garand, 1903 remington for 30/06 and a jewish rework mauser, M48 mauser in 308.

Now I save up and get setup for both at once

My thought was resetting and using the seating die and crimping die for both? I'm doing .45acp so I'm good on the shell plate and knew funnel will work for both. I'm not rich, took a few years to save up for my 550, so the more I can do with less is better. I think after these I get these 2 calibers, I will only need 5.56 and 8mm mauser. Oooh forgot about 303 british, I might have to many firearms, naawwwww.

I must say I am a 1911 fan. I have been shooting one since 82. I have a 71 colt 5" now and it is hard to miss. Another favorite of mine is the p85. Both heavy guns but great on the follow up. I had an m&p9 for almost a year now and I find it hard to keep a plastic gun on target.

I did some digging and experiments, here are the results: This is about military blanks. As mr.Dillon talked about in another thread, blanks that could not be used for live ammo but usable for blanks will have the neck crimped and are produced in a live ammo area. They were used for grenade launchers and will blow up a blank adapted weapon. They have a black tip. They are no good at all to make live ammo. The next type is what I am playing with. The cartrige will be as long as a live unfired round. They will have the crimp above the neck, where the bullet would normally sit. The ones I have been working with have a thicker case, so less internal volume and power charge will have to be worked acorddingly. Once I actually finish and fire one I will let you know.

When I get the 550 setup for .308, am I correct in thinking, I just have to replace the sizing die to run 30/06?

+1

Thanks, Now to order the rest of the parts!!!!

I thought a sd would do better than 300 an hour? On my 550 im pushing 100 in 15 min and I'm a beginner to progressive presses. I thought the auto index would speed up things. I went with the 550 from a single stage so I love it and I want to do lotsa different calibers.