rustybayonet

My brother in law just used a green pad and gave his a brushed look leaving black in the cracks and lettering looks nice. He just make sure you rub in the direction you want the lines to go.

My self I carry my full size guns OWB. Only small gun is my shield and it goes both ways. My M&P9 has no extras yet so I can,t help with holster choice.

I was using an rcbs back in the 80s. Just picked up a 550 from brian not too long ago and WOW, I love mine.

I sell surplus on the side and use east german scarfs, kinda like a big bandana.

Thank you.

In my load data different maker hulls have different loads. Is it a problem to use different loads in different hulls?

My vote would be for the MEC. I have had my 600jr since the 1980's and it is still going strong.

I was looking for dillon products on ebay and most of it is listed higher than buying new from Brian. If something starts low, again most cases it sells for higher than new. Shouldn't everyone know about Brian by now?

With the dillon you need the convertion kit, which includes the powder funnel. The powder die is universal so your there. I went from single stage to a 550 and I don't think I will ever go back. I haven't tried rifle yet, but on a straight wall case 550 is the way to go.

I like having the quik change setup if you dont have it for both calibers, might be something to think about.

I not sure about needing subforums for each press. I new to dillon and progressive reloading, but I have found that a lot of info is useful on all the presses. Many folks here have experience with multible presses and you might miss out on some good knowlage.

Don't use a plastic bag, go with cloth so it can breath. A good gun oil or the oil you lube it with should work fine. Good luck in the sandbox, don't let the towelheads bite.

On my 550 the 9mm works fine but the 45acp sticks once in a while. I will have to try the lube and see if it helps.

Here's some noob info. I work in machine tool. I found that if the shell plate is a little high it will cause a high primer. I leave mine to the point of rotating smooth without the ball causing a powder spill but have to check primer seating at caliber change. Also I noticed the lip on different maker cases will vary, so the case may rise up when priming causing high primers.

On my colt 1911 the front sight is pretty close to permanent. So for a quick fix I used high vis nail polish. Just remember to use non-acetone remove when it comes time to get rid of it. This is a cheap and easy way to see if a high vis sight will help before you spend too much.

Is the 650 prone to differances more than the 550, or is it age and wear? My 550 just over 1000 rounds is spot on every round.

Welcome to the brotherhood. I too am a member of the 550 chapter, and I love it.

Sounds like my setup. After getting my 550 all together with trays in place, I just left 6 more inches clear so I had max space on left.

I reload anything that looks good never had too much problem. I had one 45acp split, but functioned fine found it after shooting. The few times I had out of battery was with my sten MKII with fixed firing pin, but it aways gets the round down range. This happens with new or reloads. It looks like after too many rounds it will not fully seat. But the pic looks like out of battery

My wife says it works both ways

I was asking about a rock island 1911. Clerk said they are garbage. I told them about there life time warranty on the gun (not the buyer). He said: see they know there guns are garbage if they have a life time warranty.

Then again can you ever have to much blue kool-aide.

Oops, sorry for the double dillon. I'm using my phone.

Not sure on where you got the info, or the way the brass was formed, but being a WWII historian, I do have lot of original ammo of many types. As U.S. 30/06 the case passed the taper is longer than the live ammo and has a bottlenose that adds thicker brass, which makes me think it was made to be used as a blank.

Enjoy the blue kool-aide!!!