taxil343

Gun and ammo has worked in the past. The slide cracked, top end was replaced by the builder and when I got it back it has been unreliable. I don’t think I’m riding the slide with my thumb. Safety is SVI wide ambi so not shielded but I don’t have a problem with riding the slide on my other guns without shielded safeties. Function is perfect when manually cycling. This gun is a stroked, mid-length gun so I cut 5 coils on a standard length spring just to keep it from coil binding. 5 coils is just short enough to allow the slide to travel fully to the rear. Ammo was chrono’d two weeks ago at 171PF.

I have an open gun (38SC, mid-length, stroked, hybrid barrel with 4 popples) that was stove piping on every round. I checked extractor tension, seemed more than adequate. When the stovepipes occur, it’s almost like the fired case never left the chamber. It will fire, slide travels fully to the rear and returns fully into battery, but the spent case is still in the chamber. When this happens, it is always just as described above. It won’t try to feed another round and hang up on the spent case, the only way you would know there has been a malfunction is after dropping the hammer on the spent case. Racking the slide ejects the spent case and chambers the next round in the magazine. I have increased extractor tension the point where the gun should not feed (it still does) and still get an occasional stovepipe, maybe 1/100. Is there anything other than lack of extractor tension that can cause stovepipes? Gun currently has an 8lb recoil spring with 5 coils cut, I’m not sure what the main spring is. Could too light of a main spring cause the gun to unlock too quickly causing the case to slip past the extractor?

This. Started the girlfriend out shooting open with a 17. Since she was brand new to pistols, I wanted to keep the gun she was using every weekend similar to the gun she was carrying during the week, a 19. She shot open minor for about 6 months. The gun was ok but no where near good enough to be competitive. Do yourself a favor and listen to the advice of everyone here. I didn’t and wound up spending at least $1500 assembling a terrible open gun that I sold at a big loss after buying a 2011... A 34 is a decent production gun, just shoot production. I’m trying to save you some money not be jerk btw.

My girlfriend shoots a Trubor and we share another one for a backup. They have both been great, her’s Has over 20k on it now with nothing but cleanings and new springs. Had Brazos zig rackers installed on both by Gary Natale at Gans Guns. He did a great job and the turnaround time was incredible. Mailed them off on a Monday and had them back on Friday.

Second this. I use AA#7 and after 400 rounds my guns are full of this stuff. Still run great though.

Call Dan Bedell. I have had exactly 0 malfunctions in close to 15k rounds out of my open gun. One time I thought my gun had hung up and I was so shocked I just stared at the gun for about two seconds before I realized I had run it dry. Dan’s guns run, great customer service too.

I have two with close to 20k through them and 0 issues.

A buddy of mine shot several thousand from AA before he started loading. Never had any issues.

124 gr Precision Delta JHP over 9.6 gr of AA#7 works very nicely.

Using an oil like Militec, that actually penetrates the surface of the metal, is the only way this might be possible. When I was brand new to open I used to wipe the chambers of comps with and oiled q-tip before shooting. This helps but carbon fouling is inevitable. If you shoot jacketed bullets (not FMJ) the comp will stay cleaner. I have guns with over 25k on them that you can still see the tooling marks in the bottom of the comp chambers. They do however have a thin coating of carbon on them so the titanium color has been replaced with a dull gray/black.

Once a year I change all gun and mag springs. I shoot 8-10k a year and have never experienced failures induced by weak springs.

To me it was NEVER letting myself break a shot (either live or dry) without being in the proper position that helped to ingrain staying low. If you want it to be automatic it has to be something you do subconsciously, this only comes with reps. Make a proper stance as important as muzzle awareness, trigger finger discipline, etc. and it will become natural.

Good deal. I am really leaning toward getting one for a new gun I’m building for my girlfriend. She likes the size of the E2 better than the Evo since it is a little smaller but prefers the texture of the Evo. Seems like a winner. I didn’t know Cheely was making his own triggers now.

I know they’re new. Anyone here bought one yet?

I have zero experience with snap caps, I own none, so I can’t say for sure. For a brief time, I did play around with one of the laser games where you put a properly sized “cartridge” in the chamber and upon pulling the trigger see a red dot appear on the target at the would be place of impact. I removed the extractor on the gun I was using to keep the laser chambered and racked it to reset the striker between draws. Never had an issue. Is the striker dropping at all? Slide fully in battery?

Glad I can help out.

This. I run the 45s most of the time and they are great. If it's a bluebird day I'll swap them for the 22s and if it's really overcast I'll go clear. Prism lenses and dots work very well together.

I guess I am the only one here who prefers an OEM slide. I have a dragonfly on a 17 and as others have said, it is snappy. I have tried everything from 10-14lb recoil springs with little to no change in the recoil impulse. The gun looks amazing, but if I were looking to compete with it the dragonfly would be swapped for the factory slide. I think this slide would be a winner on a open steel gun or 3 gun open pistol.

Does the gun function normally if you dryfire it without the snap cap in the chamber?

Stock Gen4 RSA out of a G17: OAL - 3.228" Diameter (front) - 0.447" Diameter (front step) - 0.522" Diameter (rear) - 0.498" Now for the measurements you asked for in you last post: GR where it sits against the barrel - 0.498" Hole in the end of Glock slide - 0.453" Diameter of the recessed hole in the inside of the slide - 0.533" I replaced this RSA with a Jager heavy uncaptured guide rod for a Gen3 G17 and use their adapter bushing with a 12lb Wolff spring. Dimensions on the GR are: OAL - 3.204" Diameter (front of bushing) - 0.448" Diameter (bushing step) - 0.520" Diameter (rear) - 0.415" This setup has been reliable for approximately 8k rounds.

Tanfo is far better suited for larger hands. I’m sure someone in your club has one for you to test drive.

X-line are typically drop in with the PT Evo grip.

Their trigger are essentially drop in. They come with a sear, hammer, main spring and sear spring. The sear hand hammer have already been worked by Bob so they’re good to go. I would call and talk to him to make sure you get the right main spring for your caliber. The only tweaking to may “need” to do would be on the sear spring. Weight of take-up, weight of pull and reset strength are all set by the sear spring and are quite subjective.

I have yet to see a bad batch from Winchester but it definitely can happen. I still have the better part of 2k CCI SPP that are useless. Maybe 1 in 5 will actually go off. I have labeled them as "practice only" but they honestly aren't worth wasting the time or components to load. I switched to Win after this experience with CCI. The primer in your picture looks a little deep but that also depends on what you're running them in. Tons of revolver guys seat Federals that deep to get reliable ignition with light hammer springs. If you can't set it off with a hammer and a nail I would call it a bad primer.

All of the pros that offer advice on mag tuning (Dave, Bob, Bobby, Adam) say that you should not replace the follower in a working mag. They also say that once you have a follower trimmed and tested it should stay with that mag tube. I replace mag springs once a year and have never replaced followers.